The "Which speakers should i buy" thread

[Vg-ute-mad]

On the note of auditioning speakers, perhaps it should be said that it is always best to audition speakers in a car rather than demo board if you have the option. A demo board gives no indication of how a speaker will sound once in a car.
However, also bear in mind that a speaker in a car may be installed differently to how it will be installed in your car. the source, amps, even processing are most likely going to be different too. It is merely a better indicator of how they will sound once installed and are not the perfect way. The only perfect way would be for an installer to fit each speaker in your car and for you to listen in your own car. And yes I have actually been offered this by a store.
Finally, dont get me wrong demo boards defeinately have their uses and are particularly useful for comparing speakers as they are in most cases wired to the same HU, and same amp. and unfortunately in 99% of the time they are our only option.

cheers

I agree! I know in the states, they are very customer orientated and offer that type of service. Never seen it here in oz though. You're the first lol. Can you name the business that offered you the great service, because they deserve a mention!

[2LOUD2OLD]

it was Super Audio Installations in Phillip, Canberra
Not sure if he does it for everyone or even if he still does it. I had just stopped in one day to have a chat when I first moved here, l and was asking about speakers as I was looking at an upgrade at that time. really knowedgable guys there
He even offered to put a different set in each door so I could do a direct comparison

[Vg-ute-mad]

Good stuff! It's hard to find great service these days.

I tell ya. You got to love the after Christmas sales. I went to car audio excellence in Penrith today and scored a set of Fusion EN-CMST1 6" 3 Way Components for $89.00 (r.r.p $149) . A EN-AM60010 600 watt monoblock for $89 (r.r.p $249) and a Fusion EN-SW12HD dual voice coil 12" sub for $49 (r.r.p $169). Total of $227.00 compared to $567.00. A nice saving of $340.00, and I'm happy

[trentvy]

**** good saving man. let me know how the fusion splits go. Im looking at upgrading from the jvc 6" coax ive got in my front doors.

[Vg-ute-mad]

No worries, I will do!

[Vg-ute-mad]

**** good saving man. let me know how the fusion splits go. Im looking at upgrading from the jvc 6" coax ive got in my front doors.

I wrote a review on the Ryda Car Audio web site, down the bottom of the page, if you are interested still.

Yay, it's now a sticky.

[trentvy]

hmmm looks like I will be investing in a pair. look mate can you elaborate more on how they ran off the head unit. cause Thats what theyll be running off for the foreseeable future. until i can afford a fairly deccent 4 channel amp.

[Vg-ute-mad]

hmmm looks like I will be investing in a pair. look mate can you elaborate more on how they ran off the head unit. cause Thats what theyll be running off for the foreseeable future. until i can afford a fairly deccent 4 channel amp.

Sure thing! When I first tried them on the head unit, I found the mid bass to be average, though still tight. With the tweeters, I found they work best on 0, not +3 dB, as they can be a bit to bright on sound. Though that all comes down to where you mount them, and it all comes down to trial and error. With the 4" I just mounted them in the factory dash holes. I would suggest that you go the extra mile and sound deaden the doors, regardless of what speakers you get. That way the speakers will perform at their very best! But when you amp them, you will notice a big difference!

I'm really happy with my purchase!

[holdenboy]

"I found they work best on 0, not +3 dB, as they can be a bit to bright on sound."


Just on that note, dont you think they should change the marking on crossovers......i mean how can it "amplify" the frequencies going to the tweeter by 3db?

It should have: -6db,-3db,0db.

Just thought i'd bring it up as it always gets me thinking whenever im wiring a crossover

[Joe Peeps]

"I found they work best on 0, not +3 dB, as they can be a bit to bright on sound."


Just on that note, dont you think they should change the marking on crossovers......i mean how can it "amplify" the frequencies going to the tweeter by 3db?

It should have: -6db,-3db,0db.

Just thought i'd bring it up as it always gets me thinking whenever im wiring a crossover

heres a thought: given that db is a dimensionless unit, the +3 is not in place to suggest amplification, but a difference of +3db above the reference level. They can set the reference wherever they want, so they probably decided it would make more sense to have a positive to increase rather then a double negative maybe? i have no philosophical objections

i think my bostons have -2, -4, 0

[Vg-ute-mad]

"I found they work best on 0, not +3 dB, as they can be a bit to bright on sound."


Just on that note, dont you think they should change the marking on crossovers......i mean how can it "amplify" the frequencies going to the tweeter by 3db?

It should have: -6db,-3db,0db.

Just thought i'd bring it up as it always gets me thinking whenever im wiring a crossover

heres a thought: given that db is a dimensionless unit, the +3 is not in place to suggest amplification, but a difference of +3db above the reference level. They can set the reference wherever they want, so they probably decided it would make more sense to have a positive to increase rather then a double negative maybe? i have no philosophical objections

i think my bostons have -2, -4, 0

Yeah maybe. Suppose the extra 3 dB's would come in handy if you wanted to mount the tweets the old fashion way, down on the kick panels. Just a thought.

[holdenboy]

So my understanding is the designers have set the reference level (0 on the xover) at -3db , then you can adjust the output to suit your needs and installation.

[Vg-ute-mad]

So my understanding is the designers have set the reference level (0 on the xover) at -3db , then you can adjust the output to suit your needs and installation.

On the settings with the crossover, it has +3dB, 0 and -3dB. You can select the tweeter response, with the switch on the crossover. Just set it to your personal preference.

[trentvy]

Yeah maybe. Suppose the extra 3 dB's would come in handy if you wanted to mount the tweets the old fashion way, down on the kick panels. Just a thought.

I think this has alot to do with it...

[Pez]

does anyone know if there are slim line 6" splits you can buy?

[holdenboy]

does anyone know if there are slim line 6" splits you can buy?

Good question, i think theres a few avaiable, the Alpine Splits below are fairly slim.

http://www.alpine.com.au/products/pr...sp?modelID=240

How slim do you wanna go?

[Mavr1k]

Is there much of a difference between Pioneer & Alpine?? I previously had Kenwood 6x9 in teh back of my VN (No Subs) and 6" Pioneer in the front, hooked up to JVC EXAD, KD AVX2. I have now got my VY and am looking at installing some new speakers. Not sure what to go with. Have had heard good things about Alpine but are they really worth the extra $$? i was pretty happy with the Kenwood & Pioneer. i am just lookinga t splits in the front & already have 6" in the back.Speaker Amp, Subs & amp to come, but will discuss them later.

[HCVP]

Yes Mavr1k, there is definately a difference between Alpine and Pioneer. Just look at the starting prices of both manafatuers entry level products, and the products themselves, they don't even compare. And then have at alpines top of the range equipment, their Type X products, they are clearly a superior product. Car audio is like most things, you get what you pay for. Sure there are some execptions because some brands make better componets at better prices. All Alpine gear is pretty decent, where as some of Poineer, (or any of the other more mainstream brands) some is shit, some is ok, and some are decent.

[Mavr1k]

Thanks VP, what Alpine ones would you suggest?

[HCVP]

Well it depends, what type of car is it, where are they going, and what is the budget, and what is your goal as far as the overall set up goes?

Have a look at Alpines website Alpine.com.au it's excellent site in a way because not only do they list the nominal RMS output of all thier products, but they also list the individual prices next to each item. Although you can expect to get items a little cheaper from a retailer.

[VZ lover]

i just finishing up my install on my vz.
got some polk splits in front forgot wat the name was,
mtx 6x9 on parcel shelf and and both splits and 6x9's amped by a sony.
just blew up my option audio 500rms amp from dead cell in battery and running 2 12' mtx subs sealed at 400rms.
needed a cat10 and gotta change headunit and aiming to find one with 3 x rca (5v) to put subs back in.


iv heard mixed things about alpine, like autobarn loves em but other places dont.
but u buy acording to wat they sound like acording to wat u listen to.

[Joe Bellissimo]

Well since the thread is here...

I wouldn't sell them if I didn't think they were good

Just Commodores Italian Speaker Special - AD6 6.5" Splits

SPL Dynamics Custom Splits - 200RMS for only $350

[HCVP]

I may as well post here, rather than starting another thread. Does anyone have Type R splits, or had in the past? I've heard they are not all that efficient, working best with around 150 RMS per speaker? My amplifier produces 125 RMS per channel, would i be limiting their performance? I'm considering purchasing a set this weekend.

[Philthy]

I've never owned Type-r's but by all accounts they take a lot of power to run, but will go pretty hard if you do feed it to them. I think I mentioned the other day that there might be better sounding speakers around for the same money but these will definately be loud!

[Joe Bellissimo]

Not at all, I think that should be enough to get them working.