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Thread: The "Which speakers should i buy" thread

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    Yeah there probably are better sounding speakers out there for $350. But there's only one dedicated car audio store in my area, and i've been going there a fair bit lately, and there really great guy's who have done me a few favours lately, helping me out with my air-con, and some instalation, so i'd like to keep going back and continue to purchase through them. There a major stockist of pretty much all Alpine products, ( they will order pretty much anything though) but their alpine stuff is all ready to go, which is the main reason for considering the Type R's.

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    Pretty much most brandsall your mainsteam's, Polk, Precision Power, Denon,Eclipse, Lanzar, JBL, Kicker, Blaupunkt, Fusion ect.. but the only demo board they currently have contains Alpine gear. So direct hearing comparisons aren't really available..

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    Philthy is offline That dent guy Philthy Caprice
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    Quote Originally Posted by HoldenCommodoreVP View Post
    Yeah there probably are better sounding speakers out there for $350. But there's only one dedicated car audio store in my area, and i've been going there a fair bit lately, and there really great guy's who have done me a few favours lately, helping me out with my air-con, and some instalation, so i'd like to keep going back and continue to purchase through them. There a major stockist of pretty much all Alpine products, ( they will order pretty much anything though) but their alpine stuff is all ready to go, which is the main reason for considering the Type R's.
    I always like to support guys who go that extra yard for their customers as well.
    If you have had a listen to the alpines and are happy with them then I say go for it. Noone I know who uses them has any complaints about reliability issues or anything like that. 125wrms should be plenty to keep them happy as well. My type-x's are something like 75-80wrms and have been getting around 110-120wrms for the last year or so with no problems

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    Something i haven't seen a lot of lately is Blaupunkt, which they also stock. What are peoples opinions of the Velocity Series splits?

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    MMM!! CADENCE - ZRS6K 100wrms 6.5" 2 WAY SPLITS
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    Sensitivity: 92 dB
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    which sub should i buy for my APX1300.

    •400 Watts of Maximum Music Power
    •300W × 1 Into 4 Ohms, 20Hz-20kHz @ <0.1%THD
    •400W × 1 Into 2 Ohms, 20Hz-20kHz @ <0.1%THD
    •Selectable Bass Boost; 0dB/6dB/12dB @ 50Hz
    •Adjustable -12db/Oct. Low Pass Crossover @ 50Hz-300Hz

    i am looking for something around $250/300

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    Quote Originally Posted by Branch View Post
    which sub should i buy for my APX1300.

    •400 Watts of Maximum Music Power
    •300W × 1 Into 4 Ohms, 20Hz-20kHz @ <0.1%THD
    •400W × 1 Into 2 Ohms, 20Hz-20kHz @ <0.1%THD
    •Selectable Bass Boost; 0dB/6dB/12dB @ 50Hz
    •Adjustable -12db/Oct. Low Pass Crossover @ 50Hz-300Hz

    i am looking for something around $250/300
    Shopping Secure - Car Audio Specialists - VIBE Slick 12
    Ryda Car Audio - JBL GTO1014 10" Car Subwoofer($150.85)
    Ryda Car Audio - Soundstream PW-10S Picasso - 10" Subwoofer($178.85)
    150db in a commodore =

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    I find that even if you keep everything simple you can get a nice bassy sound, even if you use the stock Eurovox headunit and existing speaker locations, I'm currently running:
    • Existing Eurovox headunit (till it breaks)
    • Sony Xplod 600W 4 channel Amplifier (mounted under passenger seat and connected via speaker wire input - Not RCA).
    • Boston Acoustic 6.5" Rally Components (in factory location in doors - tweeters and crossovers in dash)
    • Boston Acoustic Rally 10" Subwoofer in Custom built 0.8cubic foot enclosure (see attached picture) - subwoofer is directed up through right rear parcel tray speaker hole.
    • Phoenix Gold speaker wire (everywhere - don't be cheap on cabling)
    • Phoenix Gold 4guage Power Cable to Amp (Not run in car next to Speaker wires)
    • Phoenix Gold 40A inline fuse (mounted within 12inches of Battery terminal for safety)

    And Enjoy!!
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    I would just like to say, I just recently got a Mazda MX-5 and had to replace the Alpine 2-ways in the doors.

    I opted for the Jaycar 6.5" Response speakers - rated at 60w RMS, for $35 each. I had a pair of tweeters I had bought from Jaycar a few years back, so bought 0.1mH inductors for the 6.5" woofers and did the install.

    They have a MUCH bigger magnet than the Alpines did and sit deeper in the door. The cone's suspension also sits higher, and the speakers were a bit wide so I had to be pretty creative with some sealant to get a good seal.

    At the moment I only have them running off the head unit and they are SERIOUSLY good. Nice and punchy, unfortunately the MX has a lot of rattles and road noise being a convertible so unfortunately you lose a lot of bass while driving.

    But, to compensate for that I will be buying 2x 8" Response woofers rated at 90w RMS at 8ohms for $40 each from Jaycar in the future and will do a very neat invisible install under the parcel shelf .

    So, to recap on price:

    $35 each for 6.5" 60w RMS woofers.
    $40 each for 8" 90w RMS subwoofers
    $25 each for 25mm Tweeters ( 25mm Silk Dome Car Tweeter - Jaycar Electronics ) which come with crossovers (I don't have this product)
    $299 for a 4x 100w amp

    So that's $200 for all the speakers (Components in the front, 2x 8" subs in the back), $299 for the amp - then add the cost of cabling and you still have a seriously good install for under $600 - not including the price of an enclosure for the subs, but since mine are going into the parcel shelf of an MX-5 I don't need to worry about this

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    Just listened to some German Maestro speakers. Compared them to the Alpine DD Linears and they sounded just as nice but cost less. It all depends on what sounds good to your ears.

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    i have a vn sedan and im putting in kicker 6"splits 500watts in the front and im thinking about puting kicker 6"splits 500watts in at the rear all powerd by 1 six channel kicker amp for something different. ive heard 6x9s dont sound right because they are diong to many things at once................

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    Quote Originally Posted by konaboy View Post
    i have a vn sedan and im putting in kicker 6"splits 500watts in the front and im thinking about puting kicker 6"splits 500watts in at the rear all powerd by 1 six channel kicker amp for something different. ive heard 6x9s dont sound right because they are diong to many things at once................
    No one that has any knowledge about car audio cares about your max power ratings, start talking RMS to not seem like a tool

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    Quote Originally Posted by konaboy View Post
    i have a vn sedan and im putting in kicker 6"splits 500watts in the front and im thinking about puting kicker 6"splits 500watts in at the rear all powerd by 1 six channel kicker amp for something different. ive heard 6x9s dont sound right because they are diong to many things at once................
    Holy watts Batman!!
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    Default Polk and soundstream

    Just installed 4 pairs of polk db splits in my front doors with tweeters in the a-pillars running of 2 x soundstream reference 4.920 amps. the midbass is so clear dont even need subwoofers.

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    i want to put a deasant amp in mine does anyone know whats good, im sorta new to this...

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    what for mate? subs or speakers or subs and speakers? what are you trying to run

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