Results 1 to 11 of 11

Thread: Need help with Cadence amp

  1. #1
    Ride
    VY SS II, VT SS II

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    SE Suburbs Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    117

    Default Need help with Cadence amp

    I've got this Cadence Ultra Drive Z8000 amplifier.
    Power:
    2 X 175 @ 4 Ohm
    2 X 250 @ 2 Ohm
    1 X 500 @ 4 Ohm Mono

    I wired it up as normal (power, remote, ground and RCA input) and had it bridged to run a sub, however when I turned my stereo on there was no bass. The status led on the amp was illuminated green and I could hear the cooling fans running though... There are two other terminals in the centre that I haven't seen on an amp before, they say "direct connect power capacitor, ground and power". Do these terminals need to be connected for the amp to work, and if so how am I ment to wire them up? I had another amp connected to the sub and the sub was working fine. After trying this amp on the sub I put another amp running the sub and it was working fine so the sub isn't blown.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Need help with Cadence amp-abcd0016-3-.jpg   Need help with Cadence amp-abcd0015-3-.jpg  

  2. #2
    roon_VR's Avatar
    roon_VR is offline VR executive Commodore
    Ride
    3.8 V6 executive SII VR

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    204

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kustom VC View Post
    I've got this Cadence Ultra Drive Z8000 amplifier.
    Power:
    2 X 175 @ 4 Ohm
    2 X 250 @ 2 Ohm
    1 X 500 @ 4 Ohm Mono

    I wired it up as normal (power, remote, ground and RCA input) and had it bridged to run a sub, however when I turned my stereo on there was no bass. The status led on the amp was illuminated green and I could hear the cooling fans running though... There are two other terminals in the centre that I haven't seen on an amp before, they say "direct connect power capacitor, ground and power". Do these terminals need to be connected for the amp to work, and if so how am I ment to wire them up? I had another amp connected to the sub and the sub was working fine. After trying this amp on the sub I put another amp running the sub and it was working fine so the sub isn't blown.
    check to see if you blew a fuse, or check that your ground is properly earthed. Those are the two check-ups you should do first. Oh, and almost forgot, check if you're gain is all the way down. If it is then there's your problem.
    My car audio:

    CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
    Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
    Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
    Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms

  3. #3
    Ride
    VY SS II, VT SS II

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    SE Suburbs Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    117

    Default

    I checked the fuse connected in the power line between the amp and the battery and the two smaller fuses on the amp and they're all fine, and the ground worked with the other two amps I've had connected. The gain was all the way down but I'm pretty sure I turned it up after I turned the stereo on. I'll try it again tomorrow checking everything as I go. Does the other ground for the "direct connect power capacitor" need to be earthed as well as the "adr mosfet power supply" ground? And what about the power for the direct connect power capacitor, or are these used only if you have a capacitor running? In the second picture you can see the terminals I'm talking about, the ones in between the speaker terminals and the power, ground, remote terminals.

  4. #4
    roon_VR's Avatar
    roon_VR is offline VR executive Commodore
    Ride
    3.8 V6 executive SII VR

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    204

    Default

    check tomorrow about the gain. I wouldn't worry about the capacitor terminals. You're only focusing on the remote, power, and earth.
    My car audio:

    CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
    Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
    Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
    Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms

  5. #5
    Ride
    VY SS II, VT SS II

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    SE Suburbs Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    117

    Default

    I tried the amp again tonight, checking all the fuses and wires as I went, but this time the amp didn't work at all. No cooling fans or green led illuminated... I had a different sub hooked up this time, I don't know if this would make a difference though.
    I took this amp out and reconnected my other amp and everything was working fine again... Is the amp stuffed or something?

  6. #6
    roon_VR's Avatar
    roon_VR is offline VR executive Commodore
    Ride
    3.8 V6 executive SII VR

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    204

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kustom VC View Post
    I tried the amp again tonight, checking all the fuses and wires as I went, but this time the amp didn't work at all. No cooling fans or green led illuminated... I had a different sub hooked up this time, I don't know if this would make a difference though.
    I took this amp out and reconnected my other amp and everything was working fine again... Is the amp stuffed or something?
    did you check both fuses on the amplifier itself after it decided not to work?
    My car audio:

    CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
    Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
    Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
    Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms

  7. #7
    Ride
    VY SS II, VT SS II

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    SE Suburbs Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    117

    Default

    Yeah I checked them both and they appear to be fine. If I could find my multimeter I could check them properly but they look ok. I also checked that I had everything wired up correctly about 5 times. The amps only been sitting in my room since last time I tested it so I don't know why it wont work at all now. I might have to have a good look at the wiring and everything on the weekend when I've got more time on my hands. Its starting to really confuse me, I've never had these troubles with any other amps.

  8. #8
    roon_VR's Avatar
    roon_VR is offline VR executive Commodore
    Ride
    3.8 V6 executive SII VR

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    204

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kustom VC View Post
    Yeah I checked them both and they appear to be fine. If I could find my multimeter I could check them properly but they look ok. I also checked that I had everything wired up correctly about 5 times. The amps only been sitting in my room since last time I tested it so I don't know why it wont work at all now. I might have to have a good look at the wiring and everything on the weekend when I've got more time on my hands. Its starting to really confuse me, I've never had these troubles with any other amps.
    Seems very strange but i had a similar problem some time ago. My amp stopped working and i checked the power wire's fuse and it seemed to look fine. But in fact, the fuse was actually blown so i replaced it and everything worked fine. But, since you tried your cadence amplifier, then tried another amplifier and it worked, can't be your fuse. Hmm....

    Just a little test. If you don't find your multimeter, grab your interior light and put the ground wire on one end of the light and the power wire on the other end. If it lights up, your fuse is fine, if it doesn't light up, it's your fuse. (In reference to your power wire fuse)
    My car audio:

    CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
    Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
    Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
    Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms

  9. #9
    Ride
    VY SS II, VT SS II

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    SE Suburbs Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    117

    Default

    Ok I'll try that out. I've got some new fuses lying around somewhere so I might replace all the fuses including the ones on the amp and see if it'll work then.
    I'm just curious, do you know what the other two capacitor terminals are for?
    Thanks for your help.

  10. #10
    roon_VR's Avatar
    roon_VR is offline VR executive Commodore
    Ride
    3.8 V6 executive SII VR

    Join Date
    Mar 2007
    Posts
    204

    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by Kustom VC View Post
    Ok I'll try that out. I've got some new fuses lying around somewhere so I might replace all the fuses including the ones on the amp and see if it'll work then.
    I'm just curious, do you know what the other two capacitor terminals are for?
    Thanks for your help.
    Well it's obviously for a capacitor we all know that, but I'm guessing it's there so you can directly connect a power wire from the capacitor terminal on the amp straight onto the capacitor instead of connecting from battery-to capacitor-to amplifier. Probably more convenient. But in your case, you don't need to worry about the capacitor terminals.
    My car audio:

    CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
    Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
    Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
    Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms

  11. #11
    Ride
    VY SS II, VT SS II

    Join Date
    Feb 2005
    Location
    SE Suburbs Melbourne, Victoria
    Posts
    117

    Default

    I tried the interior light trick and it worked, so my power and ground wires are fine. I think the problem is with my remote wire as my other amp started cutting in and out. It all looks fine in the boot so it looks like I'll have to pull my head unit out and check the wiring behind there. Thanks for your help.

Similar Threads

  1. MY CADENCE AMP... :( Help
    By GMHG3N in forum Car Audio
    Replies: 8
    Last Post: 22-12-2007, 02:34 PM
  2. what amp for cadence?
    By Sabby in forum Car Audio
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 26-04-2007, 10:40 PM
  3. 2 x 15inch Cadence Subs, Amp Brackets, Cadence Capcitor.
    By VLturbs87 in forum Parts And Other Items For Sale
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 12-08-2006, 03:49 PM
  4. FS Cadence UD-15 15"sub
    By H00LiGaN in forum Parts And Other Items For Sale
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 02-10-2005, 03:41 PM
  5. Cadence remote
    By G4orce in forum Car Audio
    Replies: 3
    Last Post: 04-08-2005, 10:43 PM

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 61 62 63 64 65 66 67 68 69 70 71