I've got this Cadence Ultra Drive Z8000 amplifier.
Power:
2 X 175 @ 4 Ohm
2 X 250 @ 2 Ohm
1 X 500 @ 4 Ohm Mono
I wired it up as normal (power, remote, ground and RCA input) and had it bridged to run a sub, however when I turned my stereo on there was no bass. The status led on the amp was illuminated green and I could hear the cooling fans running though... There are two other terminals in the centre that I haven't seen on an amp before, they say "direct connect power capacitor, ground and power". Do these terminals need to be connected for the amp to work, and if so how am I ment to wire them up? I had another amp connected to the sub and the sub was working fine. After trying this amp on the sub I put another amp running the sub and it was working fine so the sub isn't blown.
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
I checked the fuse connected in the power line between the amp and the battery and the two smaller fuses on the amp and they're all fine, and the ground worked with the other two amps I've had connected. The gain was all the way down but I'm pretty sure I turned it up after I turned the stereo on. I'll try it again tomorrow checking everything as I go. Does the other ground for the "direct connect power capacitor" need to be earthed as well as the "adr mosfet power supply" ground? And what about the power for the direct connect power capacitor, or are these used only if you have a capacitor running? In the second picture you can see the terminals I'm talking about, the ones in between the speaker terminals and the power, ground, remote terminals.
check tomorrow about the gain. I wouldn't worry about the capacitor terminals. You're only focusing on the remote, power, and earth.
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
I tried the amp again tonight, checking all the fuses and wires as I went, but this time the amp didn't work at all. No cooling fans or green led illuminated... I had a different sub hooked up this time, I don't know if this would make a difference though.
I took this amp out and reconnected my other amp and everything was working fine again... Is the amp stuffed or something?
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
Yeah I checked them both and they appear to be fine. If I could find my multimeter I could check them properly but they look ok. I also checked that I had everything wired up correctly about 5 times. The amps only been sitting in my room since last time I tested it so I don't know why it wont work at all now. I might have to have a good look at the wiring and everything on the weekend when I've got more time on my hands. Its starting to really confuse me, I've never had these troubles with any other amps.
Seems very strange but i had a similar problem some time ago. My amp stopped working and i checked the power wire's fuse and it seemed to look fine. But in fact, the fuse was actually blown so i replaced it and everything worked fine. But, since you tried your cadence amplifier, then tried another amplifier and it worked, can't be your fuse. Hmm....
Just a little test. If you don't find your multimeter, grab your interior light and put the ground wire on one end of the light and the power wire on the other end. If it lights up, your fuse is fine, if it doesn't light up, it's your fuse. (In reference to your power wire fuse)
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
Ok I'll try that out. I've got some new fuses lying around somewhere so I might replace all the fuses including the ones on the amp and see if it'll work then.
I'm just curious, do you know what the other two capacitor terminals are for?
Thanks for your help.
Well it's obviously for a capacitor we all know that, but I'm guessing it's there so you can directly connect a power wire from the capacitor terminal on the amp straight onto the capacitor instead of connecting from battery-to capacitor-to amplifier. Probably more convenient. But in your case, you don't need to worry about the capacitor terminals.
My car audio:
CD tuner: Alpine CDA-9884E with Ipod interface
Front speakers: Alpine Type R SPR-17S 6.5 component speakers, powered by a avant-garde 23dxi 2 channel amplifier - 2x51 watt RMS
Rear speakers: pioneer coaxials connected to tuner
Subwoofer: Alpine Type R SWR-1222D 12" 2 ohm dual voice coil 500 watts RMS powered by a response precision 2x150 watts RMS 2 channel amp bridged to 500 watts RMS @ 4 ohms
I tried the interior light trick and it worked, so my power and ground wires are fine. I think the problem is with my remote wire as my other amp started cutting in and out. It all looks fine in the boot so it looks like I'll have to pull my head unit out and check the wiring behind there. Thanks for your help.