Car sound for 40+ years old ????????????????

[gladrock]

I need some help to figure out what speakers and amps i need for a good quaulity sound for my style of music (good base, not doof doof) for my VZ Maloo ute?

I was thinking a 10" sub behind each seat, tweeters on the dash and some good mids in the doors but i get lost when they start talking RMS, 2 & 4 ohs, how many amps i need and what power?

I just want a good loud sound, without overkilling it, any help would be greatly appreatiated

[savage1987]

If in doubt go overkill, then tune the system down to suit. You'll have nice clear sound at no risk of breaking anything. I built a system I thought would do the job but I asked too much of it and ended up frying a sub. This time around I'm using better quality gear.

If you really need help picking parts you'll need to start with a budget (roughly) and someone will be able to give you an idea from there

Sam

[djeyecon]

The car audio tech at work told me it's not very hard to get a good sound in a ute because the cabin is so small.
For my ute, I was looking at getting just one 10" slimline pioneer sub, a good set of components, tweeters and a dvd head deck.
My mate has just 2 6x9's in his ute and sounds fantastic.

KP

[djeyecon]

One more thing, as Sam said, let us know what kind of budget you have so you can get a better idea of bang for your buck.

[gladrock]

Thanks For the replies,

I want to spend about $1000 on subs, speakers and amp. I dont want to change the factory head unit so i got a PHREDDY pre amp mod for it.

do you think 2 10"subs is too much?

[adamc11]

Thanks For the replies,

I want to spend about $1000 on subs, speakers and amp. I dont want to change the factory head unit so i got a PHREDDY pre amp mod for it.

do you think 2 10"subs is too much?

Hey mate
Go to JB Hi-Fi for the 30% off sale. It ends tomorrow (sunday 6/4). I got about $1550 worth of stuff for $1088.
- JL audio 6" VR splits (normally $379)
- JL 6x9's (normally $219)
- JL audio 300/4 amp (4 x 75W outputs). Was the display model and was the last they had (i rang a few jb's and they all have only 1 left, their display one).. apparently it is being replaced for a version 2 which is practically the same. It was reduced from $899 to about $698 as it was a clearance item, then down to $488 with the 30%.
- Kicker wiring kit (normally $189)
- VY rear speaker grilles


Not sure of speaker setup in the ute... it only has front speakers yes? No rears? If this is the case, go get yourself a JL amp, one subby should be ample and some front JL audio VR splits (not the TR, the VR are better) and a good wiring kit (the kicker CK44 is what i got). Should come in under 1k and you'll be rockin
Edit: Or preferably what you might want to do is mount 6x9's instead of the subby. They give you good base as well as more.. whats the word, vocals..?

[savage1987]

oh yeah make sure you pile some dynamat or other top quality soundproofing under the door skins, it'll bring out the midrange (vocals etc) very clearly no matter what door speakers you get.

[gladrock]

Thanks for your time,

Where would i get DYNAMAT from,, are there other brands that do the same thing?

[adamc11]

Hi guys,
Just an update on how the install went. Took me a fair few hours to install everything, but it sounds much better than it used to.
The amp supports low and high input modes, and seeing that i don't have phreddys mod yet, i switched it to high and used the speaker wiring out of the head unit and made them into rca cables. Sounds good but i can imagine how much better it will sound with phreddys mod.
Mounted the amp in the boot under the parcel tray and neatly hid all the wires. It's very neat and tidy.
In my opinion it could also use a sub (i have a kenwood one and a pretty average audioline amp to run it) but seeing as the head unit only has 4 rca's, i don't know if this is possible.... is it?

[savage1987]

gladrock, most stereo shops will sell dynamat or something similar. The only thing to be careful of is the spray-on bitumen style soundproofing, on a really hot day it can melt and run a bit. Not ideal, so stay away from spray-on stuff. Dynamat is a great quality soundproofing with an adhesive backing and can be cut to shape. If you don't soundproof anything else make sure you do around the door skins to really bring out the midrange. Nothing worse than a system with loads of bass, treble and no midrange (like mine!)

Sam

[gladrock]

Thanks for your replies!

savage1987, i have found some sound deadner on ebaylooks like DYNAMAT! anyone heard how this stuff compares to DYNAMAT?

eDead Sound Deadener Proof Dampener ++ Dynamat Roller - eBay Accessories, Cables, Audio, Video, Car Parts, Accessories, Cars, Bikes, Boats. (end time 08-Apr-08 09:03:42 AEST)

ADAMC11, I am also interested about the 4 RCA, Can someone help us on this???? Is this where cross overs come in????

[Cobez]

I haven't really heard of anything of equal quality to Dynamat that ISN'T Dynamat. Save up some more cash and buy Dynamat off ebay. You can get an extreme bulk pack for $250 which is pretty cheap. At least you know it works well. I used it in my boot. Very happy.

[johnnie5]

In my opinion it could also use a sub (i have a kenwood one and a pretty average audioline amp to run it) but seeing as the head unit only has 4 rca's, i don't know if this is possible.... is it?

either use a 4 channel amp for the rear , or use a Y splitter to split the rear RCA's into 2 amps

[Phreddy]

Hey gladrock - think about this, see if it'll work for you...

The mod I'm installting gives you all four channels out. Now being a ute, I think you'll find that the head unit doesn't actually have rear channel outputs, or a "Fader" function as you cycle through the controls with the button. However, you can get the rear channels re-enabled by Holden with the Tech2 machine - takes a few minutes. (the hardware is all the same, it's just a control code set in the unit which determines whether or not the rear channels are active)

With that done, use the front L+R channels to drive the splits, and the rear L+R for the sub(s). The "crossover" function you referrred to is actually part of the amp - you set LPF (low pass filter) for the subwoofer, and adjust the upper frequency for the sub to operate at - 100Hz is a good starting point. You also set the front channels to HPF (high pass filter) and adjust the frequency of that to about the same as the sub channels. Then the sub is only fed the low frequency stuff, and the splits are fed the rest of the spectrum above that. A little critical listening and fine tuning, then you're off and running.

By doing it this way you can have some level of control over the sub level through the FADER function. Fade the front down to beef up the bottom end, or fade off on the rear to reduce the massage effect.

(if you don't want to go that way, it's just a matter of getting a couple of "Y" adaptors for the front L+R channels - your rear RCAs won't have any output because of the configuration.)

Think about your sub too - Now I'm not sure about a Maloo, the cavity might be used up with a bigger tank or something - but under the tray of utes, beside the fuel tank (accessible through a panel in the tray floor), is a cavity where a sub box can be made to fit nicely. That can house a 10" or 12" driver quite nicely. Once the tray cover is put back in, the sub is completely out of sight. (there is a port which allows the sound from the sub to couple through to the cabin) More importantly, it doesn't take up what little valuable space you have in the cab of a ute.

Now if someone knows otherwise when it comes to a HSV ute, please pull me up right there! (the cavity is designed for an additional fuel tank I believe, does the Maloo have this fitted already??)

Cheerz, let me know what you reckon.

[Phreddy]

Oh - Adam....

It's just a matter of splitting off either the front L+R or rear L+R with a couple of "Y" adaptors - or by using "pass through" inputs if your amp has these. (that does essentially the same thing - turns one pair of plugs into two) Then you use that to connect to two amps - one for your corner channels, one for the sub. See what I mean?? (a "pass through" input is found on many amps - there might be one pair of channels which has input AND output sockets. The input sockets are loop connected across to the output sockets as well as being connected to their respective amp inputs)

[adamc11]

.. but by splitting it off as you mentioned, you are essentially loosing balance and fader options, as you have say a subby running over the channel that lets say the rear speakers run off. Just a question, will splitting the rca into two as mentioned before it goes through the amp reduce the quality of the sound the amp outputs?

[garfa]

Thanks For the replies,

I want to spend about $1000 on subs, speakers and amp. I dont want to change the factory head unit so i got a PHREDDY pre amp mod for it.

do you think 2 10"subs is too much?

get only one sub, there is no audiable difference for having 2.
$1000 is pretty tight, I would steer clear of a sub OR just dont amp the speakers (the latter will also mean you do not need to phreddy the H/U, as a LOC for the sub will do the job fine.)

[danja]

get only one sub, there is no audiable difference for having 2.
$1000 is pretty tight, I would steer clear of a sub OR just dont amp the speakers (the latter will also mean you do not need to phreddy the H/U, as a LOC for the sub will do the job fine.)

Unless you run them like splits (ie. at different crossover points)

[HK-VS]

I like my music loud and pumping,but not over basy.

[OZ38]

Hey gladrock - think about this, see if it'll work for you...

The mod I'm installting gives you all four channels out. Now being a ute, I think you'll find that the head unit doesn't actually have rear channel outputs, or a "Fader" function as you cycle through the controls with the button. However, you can get the rear channels re-enabled by Holden with the Tech2 machine - takes a few minutes. (the hardware is all the same, it's just a control code set in the unit which determines whether or not the rear channels are active)

With that done, use the front L+R channels to drive the splits, and the rear L+R for the sub(s). The "crossover" function you referrred to is actually part of the amp - you set LPF (low pass filter) for the subwoofer, and adjust the upper frequency for the sub to operate at - 100Hz is a good starting point. You also set the front channels to HPF (high pass filter) and adjust the frequency of that to about the same as the sub channels. Then the sub is only fed the low frequency stuff, and the splits are fed the rest of the spectrum above that. A little critical listening and fine tuning, then you're off and running.

By doing it this way you can have some level of control over the sub level through the FADER function. Fade the front down to beef up the bottom end, or fade off on the rear to reduce the massage effect.

Think about your sub too - Now I'm not sure about a Maloo, the cavity might be used up with a bigger tank or something - but under the tray of utes, beside the fuel tank (accessible through a panel in the tray floor), is a cavity where a sub box can be made to fit nicely. That can house a 10" or 12" driver quite nicely. Once the tray cover is put back in, the sub is completely out of sight. (there is a port which allows the sound from the sub to couple through to the cabin) More importantly, it doesn't take up what little valuable space you have in the cab of a ute.

Cheerz, let me know what you reckon.

This is the way I intended to set up my system in the VY ute now that I have Phreddy's modded VY sedan 6 stacker HU in (fitted by Ant in W.A ). Now seeing as it came out of the sedan I believe the 4 channels should already be turned on ?
I was wanting to put the sub under the rear tray section as explained above. So has there been a how to done on this or any pics or tech info on sizes of sub enclosure etc etc.

Cheers

Deek

[Phreddy]

This is the way I intended to set up my system in the VY ute now that I have Phreddy's modded VY sedan 6 stacker HU in (fitted by Ant in W.A ). Now seeing as it came out of the sedan I believe the 4 channels should already be turned on ?
I was wanting to put the sub under the rear tray section as explained above. So has there been a how to done on this or any pics or tech info on sizes of sub enclosure etc etc.

Cheers

Deek

G'day Deek.

There is a cavity beside the fuel tank in most utes - unless the long range tank has been fitted. It's accessible through the floor tray, there's a panel which lifts out after you remove about 2 kilos of screws.

Somewhere else on the forum here is a drawing of a box with some rough dimensions - it ands up to be around about 1 cubic foot in total volume, which is pretty much ideal for most 10" or 12" woofers. I'm not sure where it is now, but I'll see if I can find it for you.

Oh, by the way - if the unit you have came out of a sedan, you are correct - the rear channels should be enabled already. The best way to check it is to simply cycle through the control options when you press in the volume knob. If the "Fader" function comes up, then the rear channels are enabled! Simple as that.

(when the rears are disabled the fader is redundant, so it's deactivated along with the signals for the internal amps)

Cheerz!

[Vg-ute-mad]

As Phreddy said about putting an enclosure in the cavity beside the fuel tank, I made one up recently and I'm very glade I did! I have found that it puts out way more bass, with the enclosure I made. I love it!!!!

I originally had a 12" in and custom box, tucked in behind the passenger seat, but the bass wasn't anything to write home about. But then again, you would have more room behind your seats, then I have in mine.

If you would like the dimensions for the enclosure, click on the link below in this post reply. Also, it might be a good idea for you to get some measurements of the cavity beside the fuel tank as well. Just to make sure the measurements I have put up, will suit. You can use either a 10 or a 12" with the enclosure. It may look a bit rough to the eye, but the enclosure is completely sealed!

Best of luck!

[Phreddy]

Way to go Vg-ute! Given that it's tucked away it's not all that important what it looks like, as long as it's well built.

Just as a little reminder to potential customers, those who aren't cool with cabinet construction, I can do a custom built box for very competitive prices. :

Cheerz!

[Vg-ute-mad]

Way to go Vg-ute! Given that it's tucked away it's not all that important what it looks like, as long as it's well built.

Just as a little reminder to potential customers, those who aren't cool with cabinet construction, I can do a custom built box for very competitive prices. :

Cheerz!

Thanks Phreddy!

I stood on it to make sure it was put together properly lol.

P.S Sorry Phreddy, I didn't mean to take any business away from you!