Battery Terminals/Power Cable/Fuse holder

[1991_Vn2nV]

Ok I want to upgrade the wiring in the VN (just to the fuse holder at the moment as there are no speakers or amps left in the car :S). Theres 3 things I want advice on, 1 is the battery terminals, 2 is the power cable, 3 is the fuse holder.

Battery Terminals
Im after ones that accept 0 guage for both positive and negative. Im currently looking at running 2 of these, am I wasting my money spending on Stinger?


Power & Ground Cable
Im looking at using Aerpro power cable. I currently have their platinum (blue) cable in 0 gauge. Its a good price and it is pure OFC cable. Is this fine or is there anything to gain in spending a heap more for Stinger? Also is there any issue with using the same colour power cable for both positive and negative?

Also, I was going to use 2 of these for the grounds (one from battery, one from powerplant in boot). Am I right in assuming as it is dual foot it would make a better ground terminal?


Fuse Holder & Fuse
What is better, ANL or MIDI? Im currently looking at an inline MIDI fuseholder.
And how many amps? The amp is going to be calculated off the total amped power I assume.

System is as follows (still waiting on amps as they aren't released yet ):
- 2 sets of Soundstream Tarantula SST6.5 Co-axials. 120wrms per speaker. Running off TRX4.640 130wrmsx4 @ 3ohm amp.
- Soundstream Tarantula TRC.6N Splits. 200wrms per speaker. Running off TRX2.640 210x2wrms @ 4ohm amp.
- 2 Soundstream Reference R1 Subs. R1-15L. 900wrms per sub. Running off TRX2000D 2000x1wrms @ 1ohm amp.
Total amped wrms = 2940.

[TWOJZ]

can you get that stinger battery terminal for both positive and negative? Going by the pic, it looks like it may be designed to fit either?

personally, I hate terminals, my battery has standard battery posts, as well as threaded terminals, which you can slip a ring terminal straight over, and thats what I'm going to do.

I dont really like the look of that ground terminal thing either, you'd be best finding a nice, solid bolt, in the thickest looking piece of frame/chassis possible, and that terminal would make it very hard to connect to it...

[StoneX]

I have the battery terminals. They work fine and look pretty. If you want something that looks nice, then no, you're not wasting money. But if you're just after 0ga terminals then you can buy cheaper ones. You are paying for looks and a brand name with Stinger

Stinger cable is a little better quality (good casing, well centered, etc) in how it's made but not in electrical conductivity. It's just cable and does the same thing as any other decent quality cable.

That ground terminal is easy to connect to a bolt. You don't HAVE to bolt both sides down. I have one under my rear seat with just one side bolted down hard. But since it's usually hidden, it's not necessary to spend so much on a terminal.

I bought Stinger stuff because I could get a very good price and was going to have a flashy install, on all my previous installs i've just used a mix of Aerpro cabling and terminals and some Stinger non-fused distribution blocks.

[bezz]

You pay a premium just to have 'stinger' written on all those parts. Electrical system wise you won't see any benefit from running stinger parts. If your current stuff is sufficient I'd say change the battery terminals over if you want them to look pretty. I use an ANL fuse holder (stinger funnily enough) but once again run a stinger midi fuse holder if you want the extra voltage readout and more bling in your engine bay. Ground terminal looks like overkill imo, I just use a nice big cheap ring terminal I use a mix of stinger and jaycar in my install, like stone i only used stinger as I got it cheap.

Edit: Wow you guys wake up early!

[bezz]

as for what rating fuse to run... can't remember what the recommended fuse for 0ga is (someone here should have link) but take it into account and look at the maximum current draw for all your amps collectively. From there you should be able to make an educated guess.

[StoneX]

I have a 150A fuse on my 0ga cable. The total of my amp's fuses are about 210 or 230A, but I don't expect them to ever pull that much current.

According to this 0ga can flow up to 330A, so any fuse under 300A would be fine to protect the cabling. Just add the fuses on the amps up and use something close to the total, like bezz said.

[1991_Vn2nV]

Excellent posts guys, thanks heaps Answered my questions perfectly.

I'll get the battery terminals, swap to a ring terminal for the grounds and grab the MIDI inline fuse holder I was looking at

[TWOJZ]

whats a midi fuse? why not just get ANL?

whats the highest current MIDI fuse you can get?

edit: I reckon the highest is 150amp..

[bezz]

Excellent posts guys, thanks heaps Answered my questions perfectly.

I'll get the battery terminals, swap to a ring terminal for the grounds and grab the MIDI inline fuse holder I was looking at

no problems dude, be keen to hear your install when its done. Should probably get off my ass and come to a cruise one day...

whats a midi fuse? why not just get ANL?

whats the highest current MIDI fuse you can get?

edit: I reckon the highest is 150amp..

Think you just answered your own question haha

[StoneX]

The Stinger site has up to 175A midi fuses... I'm using a midi fuse holder with a single 150A fuse, it has two slots for fuses though, so I can add a second fuse to bump up the capacity if needed.

[1991_Vn2nV]

whats a midi fuse? why not just get ANL?

whats the highest current MIDI fuse you can get?

edit: I reckon the highest is 150amp..

I like the MIDI one as it seems to be more compact than most of the 0 gauge ANL fuse holders. Also, its digital.

As with stonex's, the one I am looking at has 2 slots also.

[TWOJZ]

if you want any crimp terminals done, let me know.

namely onto your 0ga ground/earth/negative cables.

[1991_Vn2nV]

+ 1 more question.

The 0 gauge wire will run to a distribution block which will split it to 4 guage (x4). Running 3 amps, so 2 amps will use 1 4 gauge each. For the 2000wrms amp is there any problem with connecting the remaining TWO 4 gauge cables to the one amp (i.e. 2x4 gauge power cables into the one 0 gauge amp terminal)?

[TWOJZ]

you can get a distro block with two 0 ga and four 4 ga. Use them and run 0ga to the 2000 watt.

[kopper69]

I wouldnt recommend using the same colour cable for both the positive and negative. If you ever have to work on the car and mix the wires up - or someone else ever works on your car you may cause a big problem. Its up to you, but definatly avoid it if you can.

[1991_Vn2nV]

I wouldnt recommend using the same colour cable for both the positive and negative. If you ever have to work on the car and mix the wires up - or someone else ever works on your car you may cause a big problem. Its up to you, but definatly avoid it if you can.

Yeah true. Considering 1m of ground wire should just about cover it, I think i'll just fork out for a few m of different coloured 0 guage and 4 gauge.

[1991_Vn2nV]

you can get a distro block with two 0 ga and four 4 ga. Use them and run 0ga to the 2000 watt.

Is there an issue running 2 4gauge wires though? The distribution block I have in mind is very efficient.

I did a quick diagram in paint to show how I want it set up:
Amp 2 = 2000wrms Amp
Green = Remote wires

[TWOJZ]

Is there an issue running 2 4gauge wires though? The distribution block I have in mind is very efficient.

I did a quick diagram in paint to show how I want it set up:
Amp 2 = 2000wrms Amp
Green = Remote wires
http://img509.imageshack.us/img509/8...diagramif8.jpg

yeah, It'll be fine running the two 4ga into a single terminal, just keep their lengths the same.