sound deadning?

[cpbait]

what is good to use for sound deadning the floors under the carpet and for the doors and boot of a vy?

are the sound deadning tiles good to use or is foam from say clarck rubber just as good? iv never used this stuff before, but want to keep the sound in as much as possible.

also what speakers are good for the rear doors and parcel shelf?
going to get pioneer splits for the front doors and have a 12" sub for the boot and bass. are splits ok for the rear doors and parcel shelf or 2 ways better?

has 6x9's in the parcelshelf at the moment, but been told to get rid off them as have a sub.

any help greatly appreciated.

[StoneX]

Since the floor already has sheet deadener and a soft foam layer under the carpet, I just put a layer of carpet underlay foam... Got it from a carpet store for free as it was scrap. Don't know how much difference it made as there was already so much sound insulation on the floor already.

For the doors you want an adhesive sheet type deadener, like Dynamat Extreme. There are cheaper brands in Oz but they're not as good. In the US there are cheaper brands that are just as good and cost less, but you'd have to go to the hassle of waiting for it to arrive here.

If you're talking about the sound insulation foam tiles with the dips and ridges on them, don't use them in a car as they're sponges, they'll absorb any water in the door. If putting foam in doors make sure it is "closed cell" foam as it doesn't absorb water.

You don't need to put speakers in BOTH the rear doors and parcel, pick one or the other. I picked the doors as then you can leave the parcel shelf holes empty to allow the bass to get into the cabin easier and not put so much pressure on the parcel shelf to cause vibrations. You should cut out the parcel shelf 6x9 holes and mount the Holden grilles though. [edit - I guess you've already done his ]

Splits aren't necessary for the rear unless you care about passengers. Just decent 2-way 6"/6.5" coaxials work fine and are easier to mount. Putting splits in the rear doors means hiding a crossover somewhere in the door or having to run 2 sets of wires through the pillar and into the door. Neither option is fun.

Yes, get rid of the 6x9's since you have the sub

[cpbait]

cool thanks for that stonex, yeh getting rid off the 6x9's, they came with the car and are the good pioneer 300 watt ones (well the good ones a couple of years ago), but after a small incident with a tool box flying round in the boot one doesn't work, so was getting rid of them anyway and have been told not to run them when your running subs.

the sound tiles i was thinking bout were ones a mates used before, there not the ones with the dips and ridges on them, there slightly thicker and are a solid type you could say like thinly cut solid foam blocks, bout 5mm thick from memory. also can you get a foam filler for the frame of the boot lids? i was going to carpet the boot lid anyway to minimise boot rattle from the lid.

yeh i go to the drive-ins a lot so that's why i was thinking of splits in the rears and parcel shelf like a surround sound set up and i think the statos/caprices have a set up like that, i might be wrong with that though.

[StoneX]

With surround sound, the front speakers do most of the work, the rears just produce ambient noise and effects. In a car, it is only stereo, not surround sound unless you have a DVD head unit with 5.1 output, so you only need one set of rear speakers unless you want the movie to sound like it's behind you.

VT boot lids don't really rattle like older model Commodores unless the welds are broken somehow. I've put sheet deadener on my boot lid and stuck it under the bracing so if the welds were to break, it wouldn't move anyway as the deadener is in the way. You can use expanding foam, if you want... Just be careful with how much you use as you don't want to do any damage.

Foam isn't really a good DEADENER, it is just be a sound absorber. Deadening is adding mass to panels that resonate to prevent the resonating (humming in tune with the music - door skins do this a lot with bass).

[cpbait]

oh ok, yeh thats ok, will skip the foam and just use tiles and carpet to cover it up, is it worth doing the boot under the boot carpet and inside the spare wheel well, too help where the sub will be sitting?

[garfa]

hey stone, what deadener did you import and what are the details. I need to properly deaden the SS now...

[garfa]

oh ok, yeh thats ok, will skip the foam and just use tiles and carpet to cover it up, is it worth doing the boot under the boot carpet and inside the spare wheel well, too help where the sub will be sitting?

Mate, tap a panel. deaden the ones with the most resinense first! exoeriment!

[1991_Vn2nV]

hey stone, what deadener did you import and what are the details. I need to properly deaden the SS now...

I beleive I got the same as stonex. RAAMmat BXT60, its a butyl deadener. Its sold in rolls.

I had the contact details but I can't seem to find them. PM me if you want the website.

[StoneX]

Yeah, I used RAAMmat. Got 108sq ft, which was about 1 and 3/4 rolls or the equivalent of 3 Dynamat bulk packs. I can't remember exactly how much I paid, but it was in the high $300's delivered, but it took 10 weeks! I have an old topic on MEA about it with some pictures.

[1991_Vn2nV]

I ordered 2 complete rolls, I think my cost was around $350 delivered. I was referred to the indonesian distributor or something as postage was very high from the US (partly cause they could only do air mail I think from the US).

[StoneX]

Mine was sent on a boat from the US... That's why it took so long

He cut mine down to 1 3/4 rolls to get under a certain weight limit to keep my shipping costs down.

[bezz]

hai guyz!

I looked at gettin raamat too, but really didnt want to wait that long.. ended up grabbing a dynamat bulk pack. Did both doors thoroughly and still got at least 1/3 left. Gonna do the boot lid and parcel shelf when the weather warms up again



Still gotta seal up those service holes too... forgot about that!

[StoneX]

Sealing up those holes will make those Boston's(look like Pro60's or am I way off?) sing

[danja]

I deadened my VT, very similar to the above pic except with the holes covered. Did all 4 doors, plus the interior of the boot. Doing the inside of the doors is a bitch, the whole project was not worth the $$$ or effort IMO- sound quality and interior noise was perhaps a little better, but only a very little bit (though having fairly firm sports suspension probably didn't help).

If you really want a deadened car I reckon you're better off saving up for a Lexus!

[StoneX]

Sealing up the doors made a big difference to my VT. Without sealing it, it basically like having speakers floating in air, you miss out on heaps of low frequency sound.

[cpbait]

so the dynamat is good to use? do you make cut outs for the service holes then fill over after or just put the sheet straight over the top? where can you get these sheets from? i'm in melbourne.
are the sheets alot better than buying the tiles?

or is the raammat better or much the same between the raammat and the dynamat?

[BOGANV8]

just found this dont know if it will help but it might..

International


prices

Dynamat Car Audio Online Web Store

[cpbait]

cool, thanks for that boganv8

[StoneX]

You should put something solid over the access holes then deaden over it. Most people use 3-6mm MDF. I used some clear hard plastic and lucky I did because on a VT the door pocket recesses into the hole at the bottom, so my door trim is pushing the deadener and though the access hole.

If buying Dynamat in Oz, look on eBay or contact FHRX (Google it) and they post Australia wide with decent prices. Be careful with the eBay ones as a Bulk pack has 9 sheets, many of the eBay ones only have 8 sheets.

[bezz]

Sealing up those holes will make those Boston's(look like Pro60's or am I way off?) sing

you would be correct

sealing up those holes will be the 2nd thing i do to the car when i get out there again, first being replacing the centre brake light- its only been out for 6 months or something

[bezz]

so the dynamat is good to use? do you make cut outs for the service holes then fill over after or just put the sheet straight over the top? where can you get these sheets from? i'm in melbourne.
are the sheets alot better than buying the tiles?

or is the raammat better or much the same between the raammat and the dynamat?

best way i found to attack it was to cut the dynamat into sections and apply it to the door. It was too fiddly just doing it in one massive sheet. Oh and also invest in a heat gun and a small roller (i used an old paint roller).

[Phreddy]

Nice job Bezz - you've got me inspired now!

BTW - what a great suggestion with the hot air gun and paint roller... Winner!

[bezz]

Nice job Bezz - you've got me inspired now!

BTW - what a great suggestion with the hot air gun and paint roller... Winner!

cheers phreddy, definitely get onto it, you won't regret it! The worst part is prepping the doors beforehand, a good wax and grease remover is a must.