Standard Stacker & HBD Stacker

[vzlumina]

Hey

I was wondering if anyone knows if there is that 'illusive' HBD or Premium 6 stack sound system that's an option on in the HBD book and has the areal up/down button, or is just the same as the stocky stacker in the Lumina/Berlina just with out the amp sub and extra speakers.

i suppose what i am asking is can i slap the rest on mine or do i need the HBD head unit, if so does some one know where i can get one, and if you can get them in the grey not the silver.

Only reason i ask is i am a big fan of standard looking dashes, i don't like it in the Vy/VZ when they are replaces with a single din head unit.

Cheers

[cewing]

Im unaware what stacker the hbd one uses, but i know they are totaly interchangable. My car used to havethe berlina one(with aerialcontrols), and that broke i had a ss one put in(has ff and rw buttons instead, which is way more useful)
As far as hooking up a sub+amp off the rear channel, should be fine.

[danja]

I have to say, the aerial up/down does sound like a bit of a gimmick, as in "uh oh, we have some space to fill here! quick! what should we put?!".

I mean, as it stands without that button, radio on = antenna up, radio off = antenna down.

I'm struggling to think of when that isn't appropriate? :P

[Benboy]

I have to say, the aerial up/down does sound like a bit of a gimmick, as in "uh oh, we have some space to fill here! quick! what should we put?!".

I mean, as it stands without that button, radio on = antenna up, radio off = antenna down.

I'm struggling to think of when that isn't appropriate? :P

With an independent aerial control you can raise or lower the height of the aerial, to whatever height you want, while still leaving the radio on/playing. Handy when passing low brances/bushes, car parks etc. Saves having the living daylights beaten out of the aerial when it is fully extended. They are expensive to replace.

[Phreddy]

The units are quite different in the power amp output stages. The "standard" unit (which has the FF/FR buttons) is desgned to work into minimum 4 ohm speakers. The "premium" system (with the antenna control buttons, and the fancier font in the LCD) can actually drive loads down to 2 ohms. (which allows more actual audio power out of a 13.5V supply)

Other than that though, they're identical in performance and operation.

Cheerz!

[vzlumina]

The units are quite different in the power amp output stages. The "standard" unit (which has the FF/FR buttons) is desgned to work into minimum 4 ohm speakers. The "premium" system (with the antenna control buttons, and the fancier font in the LCD) can actually drive loads down to 2 ohms. (which allows more actual audio power out of a 13.5V supply)

Other than that though, they're identical in performance and operation.

Cheerz!

So would i be able to put the premium on in place of my standard stacker? would it be just a clean swap?

Cheer buddy

[Phreddy]

Definitely yes. (As long as you HAVE THE PIN for the new unit!)

The premium head unit will have no trouble driving the standard 4 ohm speakers - with speaker impedance, the rule is "lower ohms - higher load" (because more current can flow through a lower impedance)

Where you will have trouble is where a standard unit is plugged in place of a premium - because you'll have 2 ohm speakers, connected to amp chips which can only drive minimum 4 ohm speakers. You end up trying to pull twice the current through the output amp chips, and they get real hot - too hot sometimes.

Make sense??

[vzlumina]

No not really lol, but basically i need to get better then the stock speakers?

Does it mean the thing will eventually blow up?

I eventually want the whole HBD System, like the amps and the subs but i don;t want to pay big bucks . . .got any ideas?

[Phreddy]

My recommendation - but then I'm a little biased - is to get me to mod your HU with my RCA output mod. You can then hook up DECENT amps and speakers (and yes, subs) and get some REAL sound out of it.

In my opinion, the "premium" system is a total wank. The door speakers are still driven from the head unit, they can just squeeze a bit more power because they're lower impedance. The "subs" (and I use that term VERY loosely, seeing as they're 6.5" drivers) are driven for a relatively low powered amp (it's only around 40 Watts), and being mounted to the parcel shelf isn't the ideal sub location anyway. Oh, and that amp is fed from the speaker outputs of the head unit, so is conplete with the distortion the HU amps introduce.

(that's where my RCA mod works heaps better, because it pulls the signals from the pre-amp outputs, before the power amps. The signal is still nice and clean at that point - you can hear the difference.)

Anyway, have a think. There are plenty of members here who have had this done, and as far as I know every one of them is still very happy with the results.

Cheerz!

(btw - I can also add Aux Input to the VY/VZ unit if you're interested)

[vzlumina]

My recommendation - but then I'm a little biased - is to get me to mod your HU with my RCA output mod. You can then hook up DECENT amps and speakers (and yes, subs) and get some REAL sound out of it.

In my opinion, the "premium" system is a total wank. The door speakers are still driven from the head unit, they can just squeeze a bit more power because they're lower impedance. The "subs" (and I use that term VERY loosely, seeing as they're 6.5" drivers) are driven for a relatively low powered amp (it's only around 40 Watts), and being mounted to the parcel shelf isn't the ideal sub location anyway. Oh, and that amp is fed from the speaker outputs of the head unit, so is conplete with the distortion the HU amps introduce.

(that's where my RCA mod works heaps better, because it pulls the signals from the pre-amp outputs, before the power amps. The signal is still nice and clean at that point - you can hear the difference.)

Anyway, have a think. There are plenty of members here who have had this done, and as far as I know every one of them is still very happy with the results.

Cheerz!

(btw - I can also add Aux Input to the VY/VZ unit if you're interested)

Lol i want a new Holden HU because the screen on my had a spaz and the clock just spits out random stokes now lol.

Just outa curiosity would you be able to PM the pricing for both mods to my HU then ?

Also why your doing that would you be able to hit me up with some info on making my tacho do that color change thing ?

Cheers

(I'll take your advice because your the expert)

[danja]

With an independent aerial control you can raise or lower the height of the aerial, to whatever height you want, while still leaving the radio on/playing. Handy when passing low brances/bushes, car parks etc. Saves having the living daylights beaten out of the aerial when it is fully extended. They are expensive to replace.

That makes a bit more sense then. Still, I think I'll keep my fast forward buttons and just turn the radio off when I drive past low bushes

[Phreddy]

Yeh, well Danja, the antenna itself is different for those ones as well. (not the mast itself, but the control mechanism)

The antenna used for the "standard" system equipped models (like Exec, Acclaim, S, SV6, SS, etc...) is stictly "up" or "down" - no in-betweenies. When the control input is active, the antenna goes up - when the control signal is removed, the antenna goes down. The higher end units have a different control system for the antenna, where there's one input to go "up", and another input to go "down". If the input is removed with the antenna half-way through the travel, in either direction, it stops in that position.

Subtle differences I guess, wouldn't affect most of us.