CD Install [Heat Warning]

[Jake Sullivan]

Heya guys,

I'm running a VS and I've recently installed a CD player to replace the default radio. Now, the wiring, etc. is all done but I'm having some problems mounting the actually source unit - it's also generating alot of heat at the back and top of the unit, which is concerning to say the least.

I've used a universal bracket to mount it, but the wires at the back are stopping it from dropping all the way back - so it's sticking out about 2cms at the front. While I am able to fix this, I'm concerned about the heat that it's generating - and whether or not that heat could cause some serious damage (i.e. setting it on fire, etc.).

Does anyone have an easy resolution to the heat problems? It's like the actual unit isn't able to breathe at all - even while the car's in motion. I don't want to have to drill through the firewall until the Amp's are ready for installation.

[SAV_117]

so u believe it to be getting sooo hot that it could set somthin alight????? lol if thats the case i would say cdplayer is ****ed lol

[Jake Sullivan]

Haha, not quite man.

It is getting hot, but the fact there's wires behind it is the concern in regards to the heat. The unit itself would never get hot enough to spark a light.

[SAV_117]

nah i dont think it could set the wires on fire they also have heat resistance because they actually need it cause they get hot as well it should be fine i wouldnt worry about it to much

[Jake Sullivan]

Problem is, I only installed it like 3 days ago - at night - so it's just a dodge job as far as installation goes. I've only got eletrical tape running around the connections between wires. I'll do it properly, after I get paid tomorrow night.

[SAV_117]

did u solder them at all???? cause my mate is a bit silly lol and just twisted and taped his together not very well i might ass hahaha lol solder i tell ppl please lol solder its not hard lol

[Jake Sullivan]

Nope. No soldering done at all. You still need to put tape over them after you solder it to stop them touching other wires and short-fusing the source unit. But I guess I should solder them.

[SAV_117]

ohh yeah lol durrr i know hahaha but im just saying solder i dont use tape personnally i prefer heatshrink i think it works better and looks nicer not that anyone is gonna see it

[danja]

Aftermarket head units generally run quite hot. The power amplifiers give off a bit of heat, and they run much more power than most stock decks (eg 50w/ch is common on a aftermarket deck whereas stock deck is 15w/ch).

Also if it is genuinely faulty, and heating up more than it should I'd expect the unit to behave erratically before it burns your car down. eg. CDs will start skipping etc after extended usage or the deck will turn off etc.

Problem is, I only installed it like 3 days ago - at night

All good installs are done at 3 in the morning

[Tasmaniak]

CD Players do typically run hot like danja said, personally, dependant upon how its getting then I would not be concerned. Is it so hot you cant touch it or just hot that you can't hang onto it for long?

And like mentioned before, either solder your connections or use crimp terminals (Yes, I know everyone says crimp terminals are bad, but if they are ok for a boeing 747 they can't be that bad for a commodore if done properly.)

[rcnugget]

as above people said if you are powering your speakers off the HU you can expect a bit of a heat build up, if you run an amplifier and use that to power your speakers that would solve the heat problem

[ephect]

as above people said if you are powering your speakers off the HU you can expect a bit of a heat build up, if you run an amplifier and use that to power your speakers that would solve the heat problem

not necessarly, the headunit is still going to heat up regardless if ur running amps or not, i have 2 headunits and the one thats not being 'used' for output heats up just as much as my main unit.

[kopper69]

Personally I wouldnt be happy if my head unit was heating up. In general, the hotter it runs, the shorter its lifespan is going to be. That being said, 'hot' isnt a unit of measure. What one person belives as hot, another might say is a normal warm. Depends how hot 'hot' it is. The amp inside the head unit will always put off a bit of heat, but a cheap head unit will usually work the components a lot harder and put out more heat. If it is a cheapie, I would think about swapping it with something a little more well known.

You dont have to solder - a crimp is just as good and doesnt require the outlay that a decent solder rig will. If you have the soldering gear there, great, if you dont, dont go out and buy it just for this one job. It is easier to make a good connection using a crimp than it is to do a quality solder. Using crimps also means you can remove the install easier if you ever have to and it makes it easier to fault find. Both have their pros and cons, but if youre a DIYer and you want to get the job done, go the crimp.

[danja]

You dont have to solder - a crimp is just as good and doesnt require the outlay that a decent solder rig will. If you have the soldering gear there, great, if you dont, dont go out and buy it just for this one job. It is easier to make a good connection using a crimp than it is to do a quality solder. Using crimps also means you can remove the install easier if you ever have to and it makes it easier to fault find. Both have their pros and cons, but if youre a DIYer and you want to get the job done, go the crimp.

Just for the record, you can get a soldering iron for the price of a good crimp tool!

It's a generally useful skill too for any DIY'er, and will give a better connection than a crimp (provided you don't completely arse it up). Not saying crimps won't do the job fine, but I'd always say go solder all else being equal.

[SAV_117]

Just for the record, you can get a soldering iron for the price of a good crimp tool!

It's a generally useful skill too for any DIY'er, and will give a better connection than a crimp (provided you don't completely arse it up). Not saying crimps won't do the job fine, but I'd always say go solder all else being equal.

i dont think anyone can stuff soldering up that bad lol

[Tasmaniak]

i dont think anyone can stuff soldering up that bad lol

It's very easy for an inexperienced user to create a "cold" joint. And if your soldering onto a PCB for god sakes do NOT solder your component on and then snip the excess leg off...trim the legs down and THEN solder it inplace.

[kopper69]

i dont think anyone can stuff soldering up that bad lol

Anyone can join two wires and slap solder all over it, it doesnt make it a good joint and it doesnt mean they can solder. It may last a little while but eventually can start giving intermittent problems. It then becomes harder to fault find because the joint is probably covered in heat shrink.

There is no reason why it will be a better connection then a crimp. Soldering has pros and cons, so does crimping. I have been through them before and there is plenty of info out there if people want to investigate. At the end of the day, if you want to join some wires and you want to do a reliable job but dont have any tools, I would get a decent set of ratchet crimps for under $50 from dick smith. Very hard to stuff up, very easy to fault find with, can be disconnected if required, doesnt require a power point handy or gas bottle to refil, doesnt produce nasty fumes.

[Tasmaniak]

Anyone can join two wires and slap solder all over it, it doesnt make it a good joint and it doesnt mean they can solder. It may last a little while but eventually can start giving intermittent problems. It then becomes harder to fault find because the joint is probably covered in heat shrink.

There is no reason why it will be a better connection then a crimp. Soldering has pros and cons, so does crimping. I have been through them before and there is plenty of info out there if people want to investigate. At the end of the day, if you want to join some wires and you want to do a reliable job but dont have any tools, I would get a decent set of ratchet crimps for under $50 from dick smith. Very hard to stuff up, very easy to fault find with, can be disconnected if required, doesnt require a power point handy or gas bottle to refil, doesnt produce nasty fumes.

Pretty much agree with everything said here. I personally, still prefer to solder but thats just me, it's not because I feel a solder joint is better then a crimp I just prefer to solder. Like I said earlier, if a crimp connection is good enough for a 747 then it's good enough for a commodore.

[pedrotski]

I had some pioneer headunits in my vs, they do get really hot in there. just try to keep an eye on it and dont have it loud 100% of the time you are in the car. i was going to modify a 120mm fan in there, i couldnt be botherd in the end.

[dipdip]

had a go at putting in a few head units my self and jsut found they kept stuffing up
the easiest way is to get a pro to do it for $80 so the if it dies its their fault

[danja]

had a go at putting in a few head units my self and jsut found they kept stuffing up
the easiest way is to get a pro to do it for $80 so the if it dies its their fault

Unless you get Strathfield Car Radios to do it and you've just paid them $80 to break every interior panel in your car...

[kopper69]

Unless you get Strathfield Car Radios to do it and you've just paid them $80 to break every interior panel in your car...

hahahaha Poor guys, Im sure theyre not all that bad....

[666vt]

i dont think anyone can stuff soldering up that bad lol

i probably could lol, which is why i just twisted and taped up all my wires =]
my number plates pretty much sum up my life haha

and yeah my headunit heats up a bit bro =]

[Tasmaniak]

hahahaha Poor guys, Im sure theyre not all that bad....

no, they definetly are not but I have seen some pretty crazy things come out of their workshops lol