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Thread: vz - line converter -> amp -> sub help

  1. #1
    nikolas is offline DK
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    Default vz - line converter -> amp -> sub help

    The problem i have is that to get any bass out of my sub, i have to turn the frequency adjustment on my amp full. (i.e. higher frequency) when i turn the frequency down theres no bass. With the frequency full and the level or gain full, i get bass but not as much as i should. (400rms pioneer sub + 450w amp).

    I have a stinger line converter and it has 2 adjustments, one for left and one for right, i am assuming they are just volume.


    My setup is as follows:
    I have connected my front right and left speakers to my line converter, (there was an optional ground wire that i connected to the line converter. (didnt realise it was optional)). then rca's from the line converter to my amp, and then a sub is connected to the amp.


    someone help!!!

  2. #2
    Luke0011 is offline Car Audio Installer
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    THe front speaker wire colours on a vz are front right green positive, dark green negative. The font left tan positive, and grey negative. Make sure you connect the line converter to the right positive and negative inputs. And the ground wire is optional but better to ground it as it will help with noise filtering, but not necessay for a subwoofer amplifier. The adjustments on the stinger line converter are there to match the output sensitivity from the unit to the input to the amplifier.

    Having said all that. I have come across a couple of amps in my time that do exactly what you say. Sometimes i have had an amp that will output bass to the sub only on full range setting. or like with your predicament bass only when low passed to the highest frequency setting. Basically the amp is faulty, get it replaced under warranty if you can.

  3. #3
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    holdenboy is offline Custom Car Stereo Systems
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    Dont the VYs have a "distortion prevention" thing built in to the trip computer? To my knowledge it cuts the low frequencies as to stop distortion through the stock speakers. Im not 100% on this its been a while since i played with a stock VY unit.

    Maybe thats the case, its worth a try. Just turn the LPF down to around 80hz and gain to about 2/3rds. Try turning the distortion thingy on and off, see if it makes a difference.

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    nikolas is offline DK
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    im pretty sure i turned the distortion thing off in the options menu, but i will double check. i exchanged the amp for a pioneer monoblock, sounds better but the frequency still needs to be maxed. looks like im going to need an aftermarket HU.

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    im not to sure wat these line converters are but when i had my ba xr6T sedan i used the rear speakers + and -from left to right i added wires to these and put male rca ends on them as i retained the standard headunit

    doing it this way my setup didnt sound any different to when it was in previous car

  6. #6
    nikolas is offline DK
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    the line converter changes the speaker wires to low rca's to go directly to the amp.

    anyone got any other suggestions?

  7. #7
    Phreddy's Avatar
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    It sounds to me like you might have the HIGH pass filtering switched in on your sub amp.

    I'm not making you out to be a dill, we've all made silly errors like that - just double check that bud...

    (oh, and another suggestion would be to get my line-out mod to feed true RCA outs from the head unit... )
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  8. #8
    nikolas is offline DK
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    i dont think i hav a high pass filter on it. all it has is:

    -Gain (dial)

    -Bass Boost (3 phase switch),

    -LPF - from 40Hz - 240Hz (only works when i turn it up towards 240Hz) (also a dial)

    -RCA inputs

    -a switch that says INPUT and i can choose from SP or RCA.. i have it on RCA, no clue what SP is.

    im guessing its something to do with having a stock head unit or running my stinger line converter.

  9. #9
    Phreddy's Avatar
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    Oh - OK.....

    That's a bit of a curly one - what about if you rotate the level controls on your LOC units? Does the output come good then??

    (oh, I would suggest that the "SP" position on that switch is to select "speaker" inputs - in fact, you could probably do away with the LOCs altogether and use these inputs - it would mean running speaker wiring down to the amp, and then from the outputs of that back to the speakers....)
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  10. #10
    nikolas is offline DK
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    i dont understand exactly what you mean... but my amp came with these:


    If i join an extra wire to my left and right, positive an negative speaker wires ( light green, dark green, tan and grey) and run them all the way to the back, then join them to the wires in the pic above, connect them to my amp and chose SP, i wont need my line converter? Is it ok to use thicker gauge wire as speaker wire from the front to back?


    Alternatively, can i connect the cables pictured above to these:

    and connect my existing rca's and then set the amp to SP.
    That way i dont have to pull apart my car all over again?


    thanks for your help, i hope this post made sense

  11. #11
    nikolas is offline DK
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    the above pic is exactly what i had made have u tried it on the SP input as im sure the amp is expecting a higherinput when switched to RCA.....


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