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Thread: Will I need a capacitor?

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    Default Will I need a capacitor?

    gday fellas I'm lay-bying a fusion bass pack with twin 12's. Just something that's been playing on my mind a little will I need a capacitor to avoid headlight dim? can you tell that I will need one just by looking at the subs or will I just need to wire it up and see how I go?

    thats what Im getting.
    FUSION Electronics ? Car and Marine Audio

    any help or thoughts will be appreciated.

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    no, just get a good battery and ground it all properly

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    Yeah mate, the subs themselves wont be much of an issue....more the actual amp that'll be powering them, as it pulls the current from your battery. The amp is 450wrms so its not going to put too much strain on the electrical system. If you do experience lights dimming just re-do your negative terminal to the body (replace or add on to the exisitng one) and add a cable from the neg. term. to the engine block. If you can just grab about a metre or two of 2-4AWG that should be plenty.

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    so If it happens a thicker gauge wire from the negitive terminal to the body should do the trick? or the engine block?

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    Do both, you can either replace the stock neg. terminal to body wire or just add another wire to it (4AWG minimum) and also make up another cable from the neg. terminal to the engine block.

    Its also worth upgrading the alternator charge wire while you at it.

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    I'd suggest adding to the earth of the battery. Makes it easier for current to get back. But if you only have enough wire to do one then do the battery to chassis! By doing the engine your asking for more current to go through the engine which could possibly make the transmission and engine less efficient.

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    i prefer to upgrade battery to chassis regardless, no point running 4awg pos if the chassis to battery is only 8 or 10awg, whatever size your positive power from your battery is, use at least that for battery to chassis. you power is only as good as your thinest wire :P

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    A bad example when thinking of electricity is water.

    If you have a 90mm pipe going around a circuit and right at the end it shrinks to 26mm, then you can only as much water flowing around as the 26mm pipe will let through. So with electricity it's similar where the part that limits your current flow is the smallest wire in the circuit!

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    Yes, definatly! Dont let that be the weak link and your amp not get as much power as it could! I did a VR a few days ago, all i did was add a 4 guage wire to it since there was a new 4 guage wire running to that amp! So it's got standard ground wires to battery as well as another 4 guage wire.

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    just checked it then mate followed the negitive terminal cable and it broke into two. looked like one went to the alternator and the other went down to the block or near the extractors I couldnt really see.

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    IF you got the Cash a Cap is a good safety option, along with a good battery (optima) you cant go wrong and you can leave it going for hours with out the battery dieing.

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    i dont think the OP really needs a deep cycle for his applications let alone a cap, but dont get me started on caps again :P
    just ensure the wiring is up to scratch and you will be fine

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    As long as your alternator can prived enough power it wont dim. If they do you've got too much current drain, in which case you might want to think about a capactior [maybe a flux capacitor ]. Or you might wanna check your alternator!

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    well lets just put it this way, my sub amp is 500WRMS yours will be 450WRMS, I dont get any headlight dim, I also run 250WRMS per side for my front stage (soon to 550WRMS per side )
    although I am running 0awg from battery to distro in boot then 4awg to each of my 3 amps
    I still think you will be fine

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    well when you put it that way, I think Ill be fine. just worried because of double subs and on a hard bass note I might get a bit

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    It all comes down to how much current your pulling out of the battery / electrical system. Speakers and or subs dont add to the current drain, amplifiers do.

    As 2LOUD2OLD put it, he's running 1000wrms of amplifiers in basically the exact same car and hasnt got any problems.

    If you do get dimming, upgrade the earth to chassis wire with 4AWG.

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    Just my 2cents.
    I got VS Calais.. running ~1600wrms for my subby (using 0gauge cable from battery), 4x 75wrms for my speakers (using 4gauge cable from battery).. which is running off a 600cca battery using standard cable (not the BIG 3 upgrade). I get a slight dim but nothing major. Caps are worthless.
    Deck: Alpine 9887
    Speakers: Hertz HSK165 XL
    Amps: Audison SRx2, SRx4 & Alpine M350
    Subs: 2x Alpine 10" Type S

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    just an update aswell fellas I installed the twin fusions and apart from being completely blown away. it shakes the carport lol. (amazing totally turned me round on fusion gear) ive got no head light dim.

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    Good to hear youre happy with the output, ive installed a few fusion sub/amp combos and have been impressed with the sound, especially for the price.

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