Remote switch for subwoofer

[Fletch_QLD]

I have a 5 channel amp which runs 4 speakers and a subwoofer from 1pair of RCA leads. I have it set up nicely - but the wife doesn't like the extra bass from the sub.

My question is, what is the best way to put a cutout switch on the sub? Can I just interrupt one of the wires that goes to the sub from the amp with a switch mounted on the dash?

The only other way I can think of is to have a seperate amp for the sub - but I don't want to spend any more coin on this - quite happy with the sound, but it would be nice to find a no cost solution to keep the missus happy.

Cheers

[LightningVP]

I'd say your option would be good enough, just try not to switch it off/on while big bass is going...

[CANYONERO]

i have the same problem with my GF, but running a separate amp for the subs so everyone is happy. id run another amp. and tell the missus its necessary to stop the bass while shes in the car lol. win/win.

[Haydz]

can you turn down the bass on the headunit?

[Fletch_QLD]

can you turn down the bass on the headunit?

Yeh - that's what she does currently - but ya can't win - the sound is then too flat even for her. It's only the punchy notes coming out of the sub when I have gain cranked on the sub that she objects to.

women

[Haydz]

hmm just chuck a switch on the positive lead going from the amp to the sub

should do the trick. would be **** easy to wire it up to change from the back.

[holdenboy]

The only real problem is you'll have to run atleast 2 cables from the sub output of the amp, to the front of the car (to the where the switch is mounted) and then back to the sub itself....you'll need 14-12awg wire for this as the run is so long.

What type of head-unit are you using?
If its an aftermarket unit, does it have a dedicated subwoofer or even rear output?
Also, does the amp have a subwoofer input?

I ask all this because you could just run another pair of RCAs to the amp from the sub/rear outputs of the head-unit. This way you'd just have to go into the settings of the head-unit and turn the sub off or fade all the way to the front (if it only has rear RCA outputs). I know its a long shot

[Fletch_QLD]

The only real problem is you'll have to run atleast 2 cables from the sub output of the amp, to the front of the car (to the where the switch is mounted) and then back to the sub itself....you'll need 14-12awg wire for this as the run is so long.

That's the plan - and the need for heavy cable is what I was afraid of.

What type of head-unit are you using?
If its an aftermarket unit, does it have a dedicated subwoofer or even rear output?

It's an older style Alpine head unit - no sub control and only 1 pair of RCA outputs.

Also, does the amp have a subwoofer input

No, unfortunate as that would make life soo easy. It has 2 sets of RCA inputs - front/rear. I assume the subwoofer is run from rear input?

[holdenboy]

Hmm, OK another option would be to buy a RCA fader knob (see link) and then you could just fade to the front using the knob.......if the subwoofer does use the rear inputs then obviously the rear speakers would fade out too.

Jaycar Electronics

[Fletch_QLD]

Hmm, OK another option would be to buy a RCA fader knob (see link) and then you could just fade to the front using the knob.......if the subwoofer does use the rear inputs then obviously the rear speakers would fade out too.

Jaycar Electronics

Thanks - worth looking in to - cost effective, and the front/rear fader might be nice in itself. Still, it gets me thinking how nice it would be to have fader control on the subwoofer.

Irony almost as I have a new alpine unit in my main ride with 3 sets of pre outs inc. sub control - but can't afford to sacrifice boot space to a sub...

Thanks for the tips.

[SAV_117]

Thanks - worth looking in to - cost effective, and the front/rear fader might be nice in itself. Still, it gets me thinking how nice it would be to have fader control on the subwoofer.

Irony almost as I have a new alpine unit in my main ride with 3 sets of pre outs inc. sub control - but can't afford to sacrifice boot space to a sub...

Thanks for the tips.

swap them hahaa

[Fletch_QLD]

swap them hahaa

Sounds so obvious I know.

The answer is not only 'no' - but 'Hell no!'.

[alien]

Why dont you hook up a relay in the rear on the positive speaker cable of the amp, then get a thin wire as the relay turn on and wire that to the front on a switch! It's basically like the idea of taking the speaker wire to the front and back again, but you only need one wire from the front to the back and basically the "switch" (relay) will then be in the boot.

[Fletch_QLD]

I must confess I had considered this - but is it feasable to use a relay switch for a speaker connection? I would worry about interference etc.

[centy]

can you get a relay with good enough connections to transfer the sound cleanly when the sub is on.
wiring a relay into the back would not be very much work ate all.
1 wire and a switch.

[axemurderer101]

just tell the wife to unplug the sub rca's everytime she gets in lol

[holdenboy]

Yeah i'd be abit sus on using a relay to switch a speaker on and off. Maybe just wait to some of the more knowledgeable guys come on and shed some opinions.

Personally, i would just get one of those RCA faders, run another set of RCAs to the amp and just fade out the rear / sub. I mean you shouldnt hear too much of a difference provided the rears arent a major part of your system sound wise.

[centy]

there are different types of relays.
you would just need to find the right one.

[alien]

holdenboy, using a relay is fine as long as a good relay is chosen! By doing it with a relay it just mimicks the fact that there is no speaker (well sub in this case) connected to the terminals of the amp when the relay has broken the circuit. I wouldn't suggest using a relay you find under the bonnet of a car. Some of the PCB mount relays was what i was suggesting.

[holdenboy]

Ahh, yes PCB relays may work......sorry alien, didnt even think of those.

[alien]

Nah, it's ok, looking back i wasn't that clear, and the vehicle relays would be crap compared to PCB ones. Since i wasn't clear, just in case other people are interested, here's clarification:

I have a DPDT PCB relay in front of me, but since its for a one channel [sub is one channel effectivly with regards to wires] all you would need is a Single Pole. Dick smith sell some good ones, Cat No is P8010 or if that's not in stock P8031. They're high power SPDT relays which would be perfect, price wise P8010 is roughly $6, P8031 is roughly $5.

If your doing a relay for speakers (L and R) consider P8012 or P8032 (for one dollar extra than the respective ones above). Both are DPDT which are fine.

[Fletch_QLD]

Thanks to all that offered assistance - I decided to upgrade to an alpine head unit with sub control - and aded a mono block amp to drive the sub. Beautiful.

I don't know why I thought it would be worthwhile being bodgy, it rarely is.

[rockerpeller]

and no one thought to mention a graphic eq? Fairly cheap option nowadays and you get way more control then a headunit anyway. But its good to hear of the sound upgrade.

[lucas_arts_182]

Theres already a relay in the amp you can manualy switch...
A single core wire(sense wire) that runs from the head unit to the amp sends 12v 0amp and switches the relay in the amp to turn it on when the head unit is on. what you could do it insert a switch in the circut. so you can switch the headunit off altogeather, or it will turn on with the headunit.