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Thread: Which Menzerna product to start with ? FG500, PF2500 or SF400 ?

  1. #1
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    Default Which Menzerna product to start with ? FG500, PF2500 or SF400 ?

    Just need an advice before i get into some paint correction on my car

    The car is 2010 Commodore in Phantom Mica

    Paint is obviously in good condition with some swirl marks, very light scratches and some water marks

    These are only visible under good lightning and there are no deep scratches on the paintwork

    I recently purchased DAS6 RO machine and got Menzerna samples consisting of

    FG500
    PF2500
    SF4000

    Which product should I start off with out of these three...?


    I'm almost certain that FG500 might be a bit too harsh for my application, but I'm unsure if I should do a pass swith PF2500 before using SF4000 ?

    PS. I'm aware that I will have to wash, claybar and prep the surface before starting the process

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    I'm not too familiar with Menzerna products, but the general rule is to use the least aggressive product that gets the results you're after.

    Do a test spot with the least aggressive product and see if that is strong enough to remove the defects to your liking. If not, step it up to the next more aggressive product on another test spot. Once you've dialled in the right product(s) which will work for your particular paint and level of defects, then you can duplicate your process over the rest of the car.

    Is there any way you can tell by looking at the bottles which is the least/most aggressive product?
    Quote Originally Posted by CSP (aka Rufys) View Post
    Look, all the update is going to be is like going from VX to VY or VY to VZ. Same car with different front/rear ends and updated interior. But it will be the VF, not the VE II.
    ^^ ^^


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    Oh yes I listed them from most abrasive to least...

    so FG500 is the harshest one and the SF4000 is finest one

    Spot test is a good idea. Thank you

    based on some illustrations FG500 would be very close to 10 (on a 10 point harshness scale); PF2500 would be probably 7-8; and SF4000 would be 1-2...

    I just want to avoid removing too much paint unnecessarily
    Last edited by Xonar; 22-12-2011 at 02:57 PM.

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    davey g-force's Avatar
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    Yep, that's the name of the game.

    So start with a test spot of the SF4000 and go from there. If you find you do need to go up to the FG500 to get the level of correction you're after, you may then have to follow that up with a finer polish such as the SF4000 to remove any marring which the more aggressive compound may leave behind and further refine the finish- i.e. do a two step correction.

    Good luck!
    Quote Originally Posted by CSP (aka Rufys) View Post
    Look, all the update is going to be is like going from VX to VY or VY to VZ. Same car with different front/rear ends and updated interior. But it will be the VF, not the VE II.
    ^^ ^^


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    Probably best to hit PF2500 first, then the sf4000 afterwards.

    You will do no harm to the paint even if the paint is in good condition so do not worry!

    Hope that helps.
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    Thanks both

    I have 4 different buffing pads (Mint) that I got in a kit (blue, orange, white, black)

    Which ones correspond to PF2500 and SF4000 ?

    I'd think orange pad would suit PF2500 and white or black would be appropriate for SF4000

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    Xonar,

    PF2500 orange - FG500 blue

    white can be used either for pf2500 or sf4000, and black for sf4000.

    White is a "light" polish as such, so i guess you can say a quick "whiz" over correction in a couple months time when you have very fine superficial marks
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    Just an extension to this question as I will be doing my wife's car soon and the paint is not in the best condition

    If I start of with FG500 should I then do a pass with PF2500 followed by SF4000 or go straight to SF4000 ?

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    xonar,

    FG500, pf2500 and then sf4000 as you said, however you can sometimes not always need sf4000.
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    Get stuck of have any issues and in a rush just give us a call in case we don't reply in time
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