304runner
( .Y. )
- Joined
- Mar 23, 2011
- Messages
- 1,246
- Reaction score
- 10
- Points
- 38
- Age
- 40
- Location
- Central Coast NSW
- Members Ride
- VR 5.0 Ute & a 4runner with a VS SS trasplant
OK, first off the battery jump-starting off a running car MYTH* is probably the biggest crock I've heard.
Love the haters who are gonna bring the hate:boxing:, But i assure you this should even make sense to the Queen.
Its the users laps in concentration that causes a jump starting issue, not because your car has a computer.
I will explain.
Electrical sh!t ONLY pulls as much amperage as resistance allows..
The resistance is exactly that, it is resisting the flow of electrons ( voltage)
VOLTAGE on the other hand, can be "forced" thru something and kill it..
(think lightning or plugging something that's 120 volts into a 240 volt outlet.. lol)
Amperage is a function of resistance and voltage tho.
it takes 1 amp to push 1 volt thru 1 ohm of resistance, by "law"
Well, for a concise example here, if running the car with an alternator that outputs 120 amps nets the regulated 14.4VDC is running.. cut it off, the voltage may drop, but you still have a battery capable of generating 600+ CCA. ( cold-cranking amps)
So, how is there more power available with the car running?
if only by voltage there's more "power" then.. yes.. but it will still be regulated.
With the car running, you'll only see 2 more volts, but the amperage is STILL there whether the car is running or not.
The battery, whether the car is running or not, is still capable of immense current, and INFINITE current for a fraction of a second when shorted. talking upwards of 10,000 amps+.
ALL electrical (automotive/bike) systems are regulated at a peak working voltage of 14.40 volts DC ( direct current)
the target charging voltage set is 13.86VDC. the normal working voltage for an electrical system is 12.6 VDC.
Now, you or someone you know popped an alternator, so, how the #### am I right?
Well, I won't say it can NEVER happen.. it can and will.. BUT there's a reason behind
why charging systems fail after a jump-start off a car.
TYPICALLY, it comes from surge/spike current from dragging the jumper cable clips across the terminals of the battery creating sparks. Those sparks in turn, create a spike in the system that sensitive electrical **** frowns upon.
The other main reason is accidentally shorting the cables out or reversing the polarity of the cables.
This will pop something 99% of the time. :undead:
if you're lucky NOT to melt an entire harness then chances are you'll only need to replace a regulator/rectifier.
But alas there is a correct way to connect jumper cables. It’s not that one way is wrong and another is right, but one is safer.
1) Connect the positive (normally red) jumper cable to the (+) lead of the discharged battery.
2) Connect the other end of the positive jumper cable to the (+) lead of the charged battery.
3) Connect the negative (normally black) jumper cable to the (-) of the charged battery
4) Connect the other end of the negative jumper cable to the (-) of the discharged battery or metal on the discharged vehicle.
Sounds really trivial, but there is logic to this which can minimize the risk of incident from jump starting a vehicle. For one, the frame of either vehicle is going to be directly connected to the negative terminal of its battery.
By connecting the negative leads of the two batteries together you’ve extended the ground to both cars.
If you touch the positive jumper cable to anything metal on EITHER car with the grounds already connected you are completing the circuit and will get a HUGE spark.
If you connect the positive terminals together first then you don’t have any chance of a shock if those touch any bare metal during the jumping procedure.
I hope this helps.
Love the haters who are gonna bring the hate:boxing:, But i assure you this should even make sense to the Queen.
Its the users laps in concentration that causes a jump starting issue, not because your car has a computer.
I will explain.
Electrical sh!t ONLY pulls as much amperage as resistance allows..
The resistance is exactly that, it is resisting the flow of electrons ( voltage)
VOLTAGE on the other hand, can be "forced" thru something and kill it..
(think lightning or plugging something that's 120 volts into a 240 volt outlet.. lol)
Amperage is a function of resistance and voltage tho.
it takes 1 amp to push 1 volt thru 1 ohm of resistance, by "law"
Well, for a concise example here, if running the car with an alternator that outputs 120 amps nets the regulated 14.4VDC is running.. cut it off, the voltage may drop, but you still have a battery capable of generating 600+ CCA. ( cold-cranking amps)
So, how is there more power available with the car running?
if only by voltage there's more "power" then.. yes.. but it will still be regulated.
With the car running, you'll only see 2 more volts, but the amperage is STILL there whether the car is running or not.
The battery, whether the car is running or not, is still capable of immense current, and INFINITE current for a fraction of a second when shorted. talking upwards of 10,000 amps+.
ALL electrical (automotive/bike) systems are regulated at a peak working voltage of 14.40 volts DC ( direct current)
the target charging voltage set is 13.86VDC. the normal working voltage for an electrical system is 12.6 VDC.
Now, you or someone you know popped an alternator, so, how the #### am I right?
Well, I won't say it can NEVER happen.. it can and will.. BUT there's a reason behind
why charging systems fail after a jump-start off a car.
TYPICALLY, it comes from surge/spike current from dragging the jumper cable clips across the terminals of the battery creating sparks. Those sparks in turn, create a spike in the system that sensitive electrical **** frowns upon.
The other main reason is accidentally shorting the cables out or reversing the polarity of the cables.
This will pop something 99% of the time. :undead:
if you're lucky NOT to melt an entire harness then chances are you'll only need to replace a regulator/rectifier.
But alas there is a correct way to connect jumper cables. It’s not that one way is wrong and another is right, but one is safer.
1) Connect the positive (normally red) jumper cable to the (+) lead of the discharged battery.
2) Connect the other end of the positive jumper cable to the (+) lead of the charged battery.
3) Connect the negative (normally black) jumper cable to the (-) of the charged battery
4) Connect the other end of the negative jumper cable to the (-) of the discharged battery or metal on the discharged vehicle.
Sounds really trivial, but there is logic to this which can minimize the risk of incident from jump starting a vehicle. For one, the frame of either vehicle is going to be directly connected to the negative terminal of its battery.
By connecting the negative leads of the two batteries together you’ve extended the ground to both cars.
If you touch the positive jumper cable to anything metal on EITHER car with the grounds already connected you are completing the circuit and will get a HUGE spark.
If you connect the positive terminals together first then you don’t have any chance of a shock if those touch any bare metal during the jumping procedure.
I hope this helps.