Combined Sub/Amp wiring

[bonners]

Guys I need some help with a power source

We installed the sub/amp in the boot but we used the power source of the aux 12v socket as the power for the sub. Problem is that the source is always on.

Can somebody recommend a better source in the battery area for power for the sub

Cheers


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[peckzz]

there should be a remote wire that you connect to your amp, and that runs to your stereo, usually a blue wire, only thin, and that tells the amp when to turn on and off and you run the 12 v amp power constant, but i suggest you run a hard wired 12 volt straight to the battery with a fuse in the line, and get according gauge wire to suit your sub and amp power, you will fry your aux 12v fuse mate

[illlusion]

mobile phone plug not sure were they are if its for a ve on vr-vz they were taped back under the left side of the centre console near the glove box
or find the radio acc wire and tap in to it there

[wraith]

What sub and amp are you talking about?

[bonners]

Wraith it's a fusion ported box with sub and amp. I'd have to find the number.

Peckzz, right on. That's what I'm talking about. There is a thick red wire with big stereo type inline fuse wired to the battery. The blue wire is the problem.

In the back of the VE is an accessory socket. This thing is constantly 'on' so you can run fridges etc in your car overnight. We attached the blue wire to the positive of this and because of my comment above, the amp stays constantly on. The green light on the amp stays on when the ignition is switched off and doors closed etc


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[kcpwns]

You don't connect the blue wire to a constent power source it's the remote wire and tells the amp when to turn on and off.
Also running a sub and amp off the 12v outlet is a terrible idea I'm guessing the wiring isn't thick hopefully the fuse blows before you go melting stuff. Go buy a wiring kit from your local car audio place run a new line from your battery to amp or get them to install it for you.

[bonners]

Mate no offence, that's the point of the thread. Everything is wired correctly except for the blue wire and I'm looking for an alternate source than the 12v one.

My mate installed this setup into two other VE's and both are fine. Neither had the 12v accessory socket I do. My mate wired to the same location but for some reason mine is staying live

[peckzz]

You don't connect the blue wire to a constent power source it's the remote wire and tells the amp when to turn on and off.
Also running a sub and amp off the 12v outlet is a terrible idea I'm guessing the wiring isn't thick hopefully the fuse blows before you go melting stuff. Go buy a wiring kit from your local car audio place run a new line from your battery to amp or get them to install it for you.

mate read the post above yours, he re corrected his first post mate, he clearly says

There is a thick red wire with big stereo type inline fuse wired to the battery. The blue wire is the problem.

ok easiest way, a little dodgy but not really mate, throw a switch in that blue wire line, inbetween the amp and the 12v socket outlet, just means you will have to switch it off and on via that switch.

usually ya just run that blue wire in behind your stereo, but with it being a new car i would not have a clue, as well as im sure you dont really wanna be pulling the stereo and dash apart, any way hope that helps mate

[kcpwns]

Oops missed that guys haha my bad
I switch could work. Can't just tap into the power wire on the factory headunit?

[morphix]

Oops missed that guys haha my bad
I switch could work. Can't just tap into the power wire on the factory headunit?

I was going to suggest running the blue wire to the acc+ power going into the head unit, that way the amp will only power on when atleast acc+ is on, but not necessarily when the head unit is switched on.

Using something like a Scotch Lok or contact connectors, you could wire it upto the factory wiring, without needing to strip or cut the wire entirely.

[tufwgz]

i'm not sure about new cars, i've never tried installing on them, but you need the remote wire connected (which would normally be the blue wire behind the headunit), but in this case, and guys feel free to comment, but would it work if the remote wire was connected to the ignition switch??? so it would be turning on when ignition is switched to on and then switch off when turned to off? could this work?? and with the power cable, would be best practise running it direct to the battery with an in-line fuse, reason being is the 12v socket will most likely be ran using a thin wire, not good going from a large cable to an ultra thin cable, that's when fires start like somewhen said earlier and espescially being a new car you don't want to do this half assed...

[tufwgz]

sorry just read the reply above mine, that's what i was thinking, running the remote wire to the acc wire that comes from the ignition...

[peckzz]

Oops missed that guys haha my bad
I switch could work. Can't just tap into the power wire on the factory headunit?

yea i said pretty much the same as you in me first post and he re-corrected me lol

who wants to pull there brand new ve apart???? not me lol

[kcpwns]

Lol I'm useless today.

[trebble99]

if its a ve you will find a plug just behind glove box to left,unclip and connect to brown pin this works on acc, thats how woolie told me to do mine works great.