dmac1968
New Member
- Joined
- Mar 9, 2012
- Messages
- 6
- Reaction score
- 0
- Points
- 0
- Location
- Charmhaven
- Members Ride
- Supercharged VN Group A Commdore
G'day all,
Have put a dozen or so car alarms in over 20 years but was probably 10 years ago I did my last. Installed one for my brother this week but fear I accidentally blew up his central locking on his VT commodore. I did my VN Group A years back and that was nice and easy... but this one I fear I have really buggered. Found two wires in the loom going into drivers door, one that lit test light on lock, and the other when you pressed UNLOCK on remote... so I figured (incorrectly) that these needed a positive trigger and to test before soldering to alarm I just put a positive to one of them.... it sparked, the alarm sounded and now NO CENTRAL LOCKING from either key head or when you manually turn key at door. I replaced the little motor in the door and also the BCM (got one from a wrecker) but didn't realise until I read on here that it needs to be the same number BCM as one that was removed... hence why car wouldn't start. So couple of questions.
1) Anybody know what wire I shorted and hence what is blown for sure?
2) Would a random BCM allow central locking to operate again from door key (at least this way we would know what it is).
3) Is there an ACTUAL RELAY just for the central locking on a VT or is that inside the BCM too?
4) Could it be a wiring short / melt down? Because OCCASIONALLY when you press the lock / unlock on the keyhead you can see SLIGHT movement on the rear drivers door button.
5) If worse comes to worse and it is the BCM... how much am I up for? Do I just need to buy a BCM and can get existing keyheads recoded to it and also is it true that I have to somehow re-code the cars ECU to match the BCM and how much is that likely to cost and who does it cheap?
can't believe how much of a hassle they have made it...
Immediately after blowing whatever I blew up, instead of not working at all, when you pressed the keyhead you could hear some lethargic effort by the lock/unlock motor to move albeit very slowly and weakly and certainly not enough to lock or unlock the door. Originally I thought it was just that the car's battery was flat but no such luck.
DeanO
Have put a dozen or so car alarms in over 20 years but was probably 10 years ago I did my last. Installed one for my brother this week but fear I accidentally blew up his central locking on his VT commodore. I did my VN Group A years back and that was nice and easy... but this one I fear I have really buggered. Found two wires in the loom going into drivers door, one that lit test light on lock, and the other when you pressed UNLOCK on remote... so I figured (incorrectly) that these needed a positive trigger and to test before soldering to alarm I just put a positive to one of them.... it sparked, the alarm sounded and now NO CENTRAL LOCKING from either key head or when you manually turn key at door. I replaced the little motor in the door and also the BCM (got one from a wrecker) but didn't realise until I read on here that it needs to be the same number BCM as one that was removed... hence why car wouldn't start. So couple of questions.
1) Anybody know what wire I shorted and hence what is blown for sure?
2) Would a random BCM allow central locking to operate again from door key (at least this way we would know what it is).
3) Is there an ACTUAL RELAY just for the central locking on a VT or is that inside the BCM too?
4) Could it be a wiring short / melt down? Because OCCASIONALLY when you press the lock / unlock on the keyhead you can see SLIGHT movement on the rear drivers door button.
5) If worse comes to worse and it is the BCM... how much am I up for? Do I just need to buy a BCM and can get existing keyheads recoded to it and also is it true that I have to somehow re-code the cars ECU to match the BCM and how much is that likely to cost and who does it cheap?
can't believe how much of a hassle they have made it...
Immediately after blowing whatever I blew up, instead of not working at all, when you pressed the keyhead you could hear some lethargic effort by the lock/unlock motor to move albeit very slowly and weakly and certainly not enough to lock or unlock the door. Originally I thought it was just that the car's battery was flat but no such luck.
DeanO