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Electrical Gremlins

StatoMad

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VX Clubby with LS1 has been giving my Mrs all kinds of grief.One day( a couple of years back) it refused to start and the auto elec told her that it was the factory immobiliser and it needed to be sorted by the dealership.Car was booked in and the immobiliser was apparently "disconnected" or "removed"....details are sketchy...
Since that day,the lights(including dash,headlamps and tail lights) all pulse when they are on....Its had a few alternators thrown at it by various mechanics in the hope that would solve it....NO DICE....
It will do it at idle right through the rev range,and the pulse doesnt seem to change much...
Every few weeks it refuses to start, sometimes you wait a minute,sometimes its hours but it will start again....sometime....this is extremely inconvenient, especially for a woman...
Today the windscreen washer failed to work and on removing the fuse cover inside,the whole fuse area was found to be extremely hot!!!

This is an ongoing pain in the butt...has anyone been down this road,or have any advice/suggestions (apart from sell it)
 

mick112

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mate that sounds like a mess, id take it back to who ever took the immobiliser out. or id try another loom out of a wreck
 

SavVYute

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Heat being generated on an electrical circuit is caused by excessive current flow or high resistance.
Excessive current flow can be caused by having too many after market devices (amplifier, navigation equipment, phone charger for example) connected to the circuit. Or a factory installed device that is beginning to fail drawing to much amperage. A left over live wire shorting out from your immobiliser disconnection.
High resistance is caused by corroded connections, wiring or again a device that is beginning to fail and is restricting normal current flow.
You will have to isolate the individual circuits that leave the fuse panel and test them for current flow/draw. You may find something, like a fan blower motor that is drawing more than its normal amperage.
To test for excessive resistance; I would again isolate each circuit and then perform voltage drop test across each one; including the power feed into the fuse panel.
There could be some form of corrosion that has formed inside a connection that you cannot actually see. By performing voltage drop tests you should be able to pin point exactly what section of wire, device or connection is causing the problem.
You'll need someone with a bit of experience to properly perform the tests.
 
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