VR Electric Windows & Locking troubles

[dawg]

Hey all. I've got a few problems with the electrics in my car. All have been brought on since i did the ol' power windows conversion.

1. Now, whenever the drivers door is opened, and then closed, it takes a good 10 seconds of pressing the locking button on the key before the locks actually react and go down (lock). In this time, manually locking it with the key in the door does not respond either. After this period of time they go up and down with every press. (keeping in mind the key only has the one button which does both lock and unlock)

This is only with the drivers door. eg. If my car has been locked all day at work, go out to it, press button to unlock, open the drivers door to get something out, close the door i've then gotta wait the 10 odd seconds for it to be able to lock again, with key or manually. But if i open any other door besides the drivers door to get something out then it locks fine straight away. Therefore the problem lies within the drivers door.


2. The fuse for my electric windows blows quite often, on average once a month. Does it randomly and gives no signs before doin it, eg windows not working or anything. Although when i press more than two windows switches at once (winding up or down more than 2 windows at one time) it has blown before, so now i only do no more than two at once.

Makes me wonder if this has anything to do with the central locking?


Sometimes when i am trying to lock the doors i can hear them like quietly trying to lock but nothing happens. Just makes like a little grunt noise sorta as if its trying to do it but just cant lock them all the way.


I've been putting up with this for ages and i think its time to do something about it because it is really starting to get to me. So it'd be great if someone knew something about this and could give me a hand trying to pin point and fix these problems.

Thanks
dawg

[doubledip]

for starters your power windows should have a circuit breaker not a fuse.. they are rated at 30A and come in a silver can. if the circuit is overloaded then it just open circuits inside then resets after it cools down..

the other problem without researching to much into the wiring diags the difference between the drivers door and the rest is the car actually know its the drivers door open because there should be 2 wires coming of the door jamb switch where as all others have one... for time being could remove the one that goes to the bcm that tells it is the drivers door and it should lock immedaitely after closed...

see how you go

will find my diagrams and look a little more

[dawg]

Thanks for the reply.

I forgot to mention that i put in a VN wiring loom for the power windows and used the VN Power Windows Module (i think its called). Not sure if this changes anything you said?


Cheers

[kopper69]

for starters your power windows should have a circuit breaker not a fuse.. they are rated at 30A and come in a silver can. if the circuit is overloaded then it just open circuits inside then resets after it cools down..

Power windows in the VR at least is a 20A fuse.

[doubledip]

Thanks for the reply.

I forgot to mention that i put in a VN wiring loom for the power windows and used the VN Power Windows Module (i think its called). Not sure if this changes anything you said?


Cheers

the power window module in a VN which is located under the steering column is the auto down module for the drivers window. you should still have a circuit breaker style fuse in i think its position 5 or 6 .. .it should not be a normal blade style fuse...

[kopper69]

Ive only got a blade fuse. Previous owner must have lost the breaker.

[dawg]

yeah i've only got a blade style fuse, its in No. 5 i think. So i should be swapping or also putting in a breaker so then i wont be blowing fuses all the time?

[markovr]

How did you wire the vn power window loom into your cars existing loom....did you just use the two power window wires at each side ofthe door harness connectors and slip them into your existing connector as the vn loom has power door locking in there too that you dont use if fitting it to a vr/s...I have the setup in my car and it works fine.

[dawg]

yeah i just put two wires from the vn loom into my existing door loom connector, so give power to the wires in the door, that are now plugged into the Regs.

[kopper69]

Ive got the fuse mate and dont have any troubles. Could try a breaker but its not a good chance. I know its a pain but I would be taking the door trim off and checking the wiring.

[dawg]

well finally just fixed my back two doors, sprayed a .. fair bit of wd40 on the moving bits up just above the locking mech/motor and loosened all the dust and **** up alot, now the two back doors lock without me having to open the back dooors and push them down after locking the car.

Hmm, should i maybe check the fuse and the connector i had to re-wire? If anything that is probably where the problem is... i might check it out tomorrow, make sure the connector(s) i used have proper contact with the wires and the i might re-do the ground.

I noticed one day the fuse blown when driving when i turned my stereo up to complete max just for something to do, they went out after that. Could it be something to do with that somehow? I have an amp and sub too if that helps.

Thanks for the help guys

[dawg]

was playing around with this locking bs this arvo, i sat in the car after drivers door was open and closed (but not locked) and after about 10 seconds there is a 'click' come from under the dash (relays and **** i suppose) and after that click them it lets me lock the doors with the button on the key no worries.

The interior light and power windows stay functioning until after this click, so i don't think it has anything to do with them as to its on the same circuit as them.

Please guys i need some help

[NickVR]

was playing around with this locking bs this arvo, i sat in the car after drivers door was open and closed (but not locked) and after about 10 seconds there is a 'click' come from under the dash (relays and **** i suppose) and after that click them it lets me lock the doors with the button on the key no worries.

The interior light and power windows stay functioning until after this click, so i don't think it has anything to do with them as to its on the same circuit as them.

Please guys i need some help

I had the same prob but with mine it would back feed to other electrics in the car if I held the up button for too long. The fix for that is the circuit breaker as meantioned. Put one in mine and haven't had a problem since.

The locking thing happens to my car too. Won't lock til about 10secs after. Would like to know a fix for this too as I thought it was my remote playing up. Could it be the earth pin for the delay timer causing this? Do the VN calais' have a different door pin?

[kopper69]

The click in my car I thought was when the power windows were disabled. ie you get about (I thought it was closer to 30 seconds?), after this time the relay clicks off and the electric windows loose power and immobiliser is enabled. Not sure on this though, but this was my understanding. Did you have an aftermarket alarm at any stage?

[dawg]

nah never had an alarm mate.

Nick, will your central locking work before the 10 seconds if you lock it manually (key in hole) ??
And what exactly did the circuit breaker fix for you?

Cheers

[NickVR]

The circuit breaker stopped back feeding through the rest of the system which would happen when I held the up button for too long after it got to the top.

[NickVR]

Ok, I sussed it out and the problem lies with the power window module door pin wire. Everything that happens with dawg happens on mine. If I take the door pin wire off the door pin switch and leave just the one for the interior light on it, it will lock fine with no probs. But if I leave it and tap the module wire on an earth while opening and shutting the door it will lock fine too. It's like it doesn't like being on the same connector as the light wire but if it earths else where by itself then it's fine. The way I see it, it needs it's own door pin switch to be happy and not interfere with the central locking.

So, is there a special 2 pin door switch that the VN/VP Calais use?

Anyone know?

[NickVR]

Ok found the solution for this locking problem. View pic below:


It's a 2 pin door pin switch and my dad found 2 at u pull it. One came out of a VN/VP calais and one out what he thought was a VR/VS Acclaim.

So the fix to the problems in this thread without a doubt are 1) Circuit breaker instead of fuse (Looks like a fuse but is slightly bigger and is metal). 2)Dual pin door pin switch. Found from commodores, these may still be available from Holden spare parts so find out, if not go to a wrecker.

[dawg]

Just played around with mine, and yeah, connect the door pin switch wire (white/blue) as normal and everythings fine.

Are you only using one of those 2 pin door switches?

And how do i go about getting and installing a circuit breaker for the power windows?


Thanks Nick, appreciate it mate.

[markovr]

My car has the two terminal door switches....did that when i put the alarm in .I thought the circuit breaker plugs straight in where the fuse was...mine is in fuse 5

[NickVR]

Only one dual pole door pin switch on the drivers side. Yep markovr your right. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow.

[dawg]

Only one dual pole door pin switch on the drivers side. Yep markovr your right. I'll try to get some pics tomorrow.

So do you have one spare man?

Howd ya go with those pics?

[NickVR]

Oh damn forgot about pics. I'll try to get some tomorrow.

[NickVR]

Sorry been flat out. Here is a pic of the circuit breaker.

[dawg]

hmm, so i finally got a new door switch from holden spare parts, but, its just a single pin, with an adapter soldered on to make it have two pins instead of 1. They are not individual pins leading into the switch!

i really need to know exactly what these two pole switches come off. if anyone knows 100% can you PLEASE let me know.

Thanks