PIR4TE
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- Mar 15, 2011
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- Black Pearl
I've seen dozens of threads about annoying noises, rattles, drone, booming and squeaks in the VE, as well as members waxing lyrical about the loud and sexy sounds from induction, mechanical, and exhaust note. Some members have asked about sound mods so started this thread.
I'm no expert just a fussy kent who's put some time sorting out the acoustics a bit because I travel all sorts of roads from Brisbane to Adelaide, via the high country and SA/VIC/NSW outback three or four times a year.
Here's what I've done bumper to bumper on my Sportwagon:
Up front I have an OTR which is horn shaped like most, which means it amplifies and projects induction sound waves forward from under the bonnet.
Behind that is a ported throttle body that has no lip to counter the whistling of air at part throttle openings.
Throttle opens up to a Custom Manifold that has been rebuilt to force tumbling of air into the runners over radius bars. This creates a distinctive "whoo" like a woodwind instrument that becomes a roar about 4000 rpm. Baffles, posts and any superfluous crap shaved in favour of ported air flow.
Cam is stock but modified lift and duration to equal an LS2 cam.
Standing directly in front with the bonnet open the noise can be intimidating with just a few revs but bonnet closed in cabin is good. I made a stealth shroud out of MLV (see below) for special occasions.
Stock wheel arches are thin plastic bins on the VE with no deadening whatsoever. In fact they are simple mud guards that cup road noise and can make highway travel worse. Fortunately this is one area Holden spent some time and money on the VF, using sound deadening material found on the luxury model BMWs, Benz, Lexus, etc. Parts interpreters will tell you they don't fit because of part number discrepancies and other stuff however I found the right parts to fit an SSV wagon. Problem is availability, like I imagine is the case for much VF spares - I had to wait six months to replace the four plastic bins with the new acoustic carpet.
Inside the front fender the side repeater wire is not fixed and can get up a swing to create a tick, fixed by taping to the body with the wheel arch out.
Underbody on Series II (dropped with VF) there is a plastic aero shield running the length of the car to the rear axle to baffle road noise and promote slippery flow. This is available to fit on other VE models.
Inside the cabin most issues can be solved with impregnated butyl rubber (DynoMatt etc) or padded out with mass loaded vinyl which is dense (heavy) impregnated like butyl but with acoustic foam backing.
Using butyl on the outer door skins and MLV inside the plastic rain shield makes a worthwhile difference to the solid clunk of the door, particularly with a window open, and insulates outside noise as well as deadening isolation for the stereo speakers.
The overhead console is best baffled with MLV, as is the small space under the HVAC controls behind the rubber tray on the centre console.
Under the rear seat is ideal to lay MLV to reduce cabin drone.
I bought an engine analyser program to define vehicle harmonics and optimise performance, plus a header design program to calculate required dimensions. One result was to run straight through pipes (no mid muff or reso) to the point of the engine's second harmonic, which with my mods is just behind the tunnel brace. That is the best spot for an X-Pipe to maximise torque from idle :yarr: right the way through the range to reduce noise in the upper rpm. ie it works to capture the benefit of subsonic and low frequency pulses at cruising / idle rpm (nice sound) and muffle noise at higher revs.
Exhaust drone is best covered elsewhere but one thing I realised is that long headers (32") and long (25") pre-cat collectors moves sound back away from the bell housing, plus HSV GTS Bi-Modal mufflers are the ultimate, bringing the whole shebang to legal level on request for less than $500.
MLV in the space on top of the wheel arches and butyl makes a difference inside the walls of the spare wheel well. Underneath the cargo floor lid is an MLV shroud cut to size.
Tailgate door skin needs butyl and at the lower edge plastic seal there is a hollow space best filled with cut strips of MLV.
All this leads to a stealthily legal, comfortable, quiet cabin, full stereo response, and a crazy fricken tuned monster when you mash the pedal. Most passengers really appreciate the comfort difference and pass comment on giddy-up too.
Now for a way to quieten drone from the missus, and the whine of the kids...
Don't want to build a bigger wall of text sorry, so pics, part numbers and sourcing details are available and I will post the manifest if enough interest.
I'm no expert just a fussy kent who's put some time sorting out the acoustics a bit because I travel all sorts of roads from Brisbane to Adelaide, via the high country and SA/VIC/NSW outback three or four times a year.
Here's what I've done bumper to bumper on my Sportwagon:
Up front I have an OTR which is horn shaped like most, which means it amplifies and projects induction sound waves forward from under the bonnet.
Behind that is a ported throttle body that has no lip to counter the whistling of air at part throttle openings.
Throttle opens up to a Custom Manifold that has been rebuilt to force tumbling of air into the runners over radius bars. This creates a distinctive "whoo" like a woodwind instrument that becomes a roar about 4000 rpm. Baffles, posts and any superfluous crap shaved in favour of ported air flow.
Cam is stock but modified lift and duration to equal an LS2 cam.
Standing directly in front with the bonnet open the noise can be intimidating with just a few revs but bonnet closed in cabin is good. I made a stealth shroud out of MLV (see below) for special occasions.
Stock wheel arches are thin plastic bins on the VE with no deadening whatsoever. In fact they are simple mud guards that cup road noise and can make highway travel worse. Fortunately this is one area Holden spent some time and money on the VF, using sound deadening material found on the luxury model BMWs, Benz, Lexus, etc. Parts interpreters will tell you they don't fit because of part number discrepancies and other stuff however I found the right parts to fit an SSV wagon. Problem is availability, like I imagine is the case for much VF spares - I had to wait six months to replace the four plastic bins with the new acoustic carpet.
Inside the front fender the side repeater wire is not fixed and can get up a swing to create a tick, fixed by taping to the body with the wheel arch out.
Underbody on Series II (dropped with VF) there is a plastic aero shield running the length of the car to the rear axle to baffle road noise and promote slippery flow. This is available to fit on other VE models.
Inside the cabin most issues can be solved with impregnated butyl rubber (DynoMatt etc) or padded out with mass loaded vinyl which is dense (heavy) impregnated like butyl but with acoustic foam backing.
Using butyl on the outer door skins and MLV inside the plastic rain shield makes a worthwhile difference to the solid clunk of the door, particularly with a window open, and insulates outside noise as well as deadening isolation for the stereo speakers.
The overhead console is best baffled with MLV, as is the small space under the HVAC controls behind the rubber tray on the centre console.
Under the rear seat is ideal to lay MLV to reduce cabin drone.
I bought an engine analyser program to define vehicle harmonics and optimise performance, plus a header design program to calculate required dimensions. One result was to run straight through pipes (no mid muff or reso) to the point of the engine's second harmonic, which with my mods is just behind the tunnel brace. That is the best spot for an X-Pipe to maximise torque from idle :yarr: right the way through the range to reduce noise in the upper rpm. ie it works to capture the benefit of subsonic and low frequency pulses at cruising / idle rpm (nice sound) and muffle noise at higher revs.
Exhaust drone is best covered elsewhere but one thing I realised is that long headers (32") and long (25") pre-cat collectors moves sound back away from the bell housing, plus HSV GTS Bi-Modal mufflers are the ultimate, bringing the whole shebang to legal level on request for less than $500.
MLV in the space on top of the wheel arches and butyl makes a difference inside the walls of the spare wheel well. Underneath the cargo floor lid is an MLV shroud cut to size.
Tailgate door skin needs butyl and at the lower edge plastic seal there is a hollow space best filled with cut strips of MLV.
All this leads to a stealthily legal, comfortable, quiet cabin, full stereo response, and a crazy fricken tuned monster when you mash the pedal. Most passengers really appreciate the comfort difference and pass comment on giddy-up too.
Now for a way to quieten drone from the missus, and the whine of the kids...
Don't want to build a bigger wall of text sorry, so pics, part numbers and sourcing details are available and I will post the manifest if enough interest.
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