Roadworthy items?

[garlo]

Hey guys, im looking at a commodore to buy and i got it RACQ inspected before i wanted to by. Well i got the results here now and are you guys able to tell me what items would affect me getting a RWC?

Heres the list:

1. Windscreen washers inefficient
2. Hard to start first time in the morning
3. Radiator fins corroded. Inhibitor fails test
4. Rear shock absorbers leaking
5. Right rear wheel cylinder leaking.
6. Front disc rotors worn below limit
7. Unsealed holes drilling in spare tyre well
8. Rear sway bar bushes worn
9. Power steering pump leaking
10. Oil laks at timing cover and rear of head area, oil stains at lower rear of engine
11. Charge light stays on, battery not charging
12. Knocking noise from front of engine when cold
13. Noise from CV joints on turns
14. Low fan speed not working, heater not working
15. Minor noise in airconditioning compressor
16. Valve train noise
17. Gauges needles bent
18. Front tyres have limited thread
19. Right rear shock dust boot spilt
20. Coolant stains at top of gearbox and hose connections
21. Spare tyre has limited thead
22. Movement in T bar lincages
23. Engine harshnes / vibration through body at idle. Suspect upper front engine mount
24. Engine pinging under load.

Thanks guys

[TVR-190]

well really it depends on who does the rego check.

when i got my old car done it failed for leaking power steering pump and at a different place it failed for no mudflaps, frayed seatbelt and a few light failures.

best bet is to take it to get a check, then see what they pick up, get it fixed and go back

[WhiteVS]

depends where you take it, some places are tight n fail u for silly things.
but looking at that list id say they would fail:

1. Windscreen washers inefficient
4. Rear shock absorbers leaking
5. Right rear wheel cylinder leaking.
6. Front disc rotors worn below limit
8. Rear sway bar bushes worn
9. Power steering pump leaking
10. Oil laks at timing cover and rear of head area, oil stains at lower rear of engine
11. Charge light stays on, battery not charging
13. Noise from CV joints on turns
17. Gauges needles bent (not sure)
18. Front tyres have limited thread
19. Right rear shock dust boot spilt
21. Spare tyre has limited thead
22. Movement in T bar lincages
23. Engine harshnes / vibration through body at idle. Suspect upper front engine mount

[acarmody]

Seriously look at another car, this one has too many problems. Engines dodge, suspension is shot, brakes worn, it makes noises when turning, powersteering failing. What isn't wrong with this car? You would spend many thousands getting this up to scratch.

[50LTRv8]

Seriously look at another car, this one has too many problems. Engines dodge, suspension is shot, brakes worn, it makes noises when turning, powersteering failing. What isn't wrong with this car? You would spend many thousands getting this up to scratch.

What he said.

There is to many around to get stuck on this one, I wouldn't touch this one at all

[Grennan]

1. Windscreen washers inefficient
4. Rear shock absorbers leaking
5. Right rear wheel cylinder leaking.
6. Front disc rotors worn below limit
7. Unsealed holes drilling in spare tyre well
8. Rear sway bar bushes worn depends on tester
9. Power steering pump leaking depends on tester and how bad the leak is, they might just clean it up and chuck some No Leak in it.
10. Oil laks at timing cover and rear of head area, oil stains at lower rear of engine
11. Charge light stays on, battery not charging depends on how hard they look.
13. Noise from CV joints on turns depends if they look at it/take it for a test drive and hear it
17. Gauges needles bent
18. Front tyres have limited thread
19. Right rear shock dust boot spilt
20. Coolant stains at top of gearbox and hose connections there will be a leak somewhere.
21. Spare tyre has limited thead If the spare tyre is present it must be roadworthy, in VIC you DONT NEED to have a spare, but if you do have one it must be legal. In Vic you can just take the spare out and off you go... dunno how it works in QLD.
22. Movement in T bar lincages
23. Engine harshnes / vibration through body at idle. Suspect upper front engine mount


Thanks guys

Yeah id say the car is a peice of shit, but ive highlighted what will fail depending on the mechanic.

PS guys, school holidays again.

[DannyboyDS]

Personally I wouldn't buy it, keep looking it going to cost a bit to fix everything and i'm not too keen on knocking noises from inside the engine.

[Blown V6 Hatch]

1. Windscreen washers inefficient
4. Rear shock absorbers leaking
5. Right rear wheel cylinder leaking.
6. Front disc rotors worn below limit
7. Unsealed holes drilling in spare tyre well
8. Rear sway bar bushes worn
9. Power steering pump leaking Depending on how bad it is and how picky the tester is. Technically, if it doesn't leave oil on the floor in the time it takes to do the inspection its fine.
10. Oil laks at timing cover and rear of head area, oil stains at lower rear of engine As above
13. Noise from CV joints on turns Considering Commodores don't have CV joints, this can't be possible.
14. Low fan speed not working, heater not working
18. Front tyres have limited thread If the tyre has treadwear indicators, it must have 1mm tread to be roadworthy. If no indicators it only needs 1mm of tread to be roadworthy.
19. Right rear shock dust boot spilt Depends on the tester, but it's debatable.
20. Coolant stains at top of gearbox and hose connections same as oil leaks.
21. Spare tyre has limited thead Refer to 18
23. Engine harshnes / vibration through body at idle. Suspect upper front engine mount Commodores don't have a front upper engine mount.

They are the ones that will roadworthy items.

Just out of interest, what model Commodore is it?

[axemurderer101]

lol this thread in on the other commodores site and you got flamed haha

[vlv8vic]

Hey guys, im looking at a commodore to buy and i got it RACQ inspected before i wanted to by. Well i got the results here now and are you guys able to tell me what items would affect me getting a RWC?

Heres the list:

1. Windscreen washers inefficient
2. Hard to start first time in the morning
3. Radiator fins corroded. Inhibitor fails test
4. Rear shock absorbers leaking
5. Right rear wheel cylinder leaking.
6. Front disc rotors worn below limit
7. Unsealed holes drilling in spare tyre well
8. Rear sway bar bushes worn
9. Power steering pump leaking
10. Oil laks at timing cover and rear of head area, oil stains at lower rear of engine
11. Charge light stays on, battery not charging
12. Knocking noise from front of engine when cold
13. Noise from CV joints on turns
14. Low fan speed not working, heater not working
15. Minor noise in airconditioning compressor
16. Valve train noise
17. Gauges needles bent
18. Front tyres have limited thread
19. Right rear shock dust boot spilt
20. Coolant stains at top of gearbox and hose connections
21. Spare tyre has limited thead
22. Movement in T bar lincages
23. Engine harshnes / vibration through body at idle. Suspect upper front engine mount
24. Engine pinging under load.

Thanks guys

If you were in Vic and the person was doing it right these would fail....



EDIT: just in case anyone else is as dumb as Blown V6 Hatch, i DO NOT issue roadworthies, it goes without saying that each tester would issue different things depending on the day, his/her mood and many many other variations. The list above is taken from a roadworthiness checklist that mechanics used to have, but commonsense suggests that this would be a worst case scenario. Sadly, i have to explain this because a few people fail miserably at life. *thread cleaned*

[DannyboyDS]

Blown V6 Hatch the center bearing on the tailshaft is also a constant velocity joint, IRS commodores also have them from the diff to the rear wheels (On the axle)

I think so anyway.

Garlo, how much is the car going to cost? if your getting it for a few hundred and the body is pretty straight it might be worth it, IF you have the time and some spare money to fix it up, although i'll say it again, rattles and clunks in engines are always bad.

EDIT: Axemurdere101 one of the best things about this forum is you can ask almost anything, as long as you are serious and you really don't know, generally people will help you and not flame you, it's why most of us are here.

[Calaber]

No matter what the price, any car that has been neglected to the point where so much is wrong at one time has to be a piece of crap. Next stop for this heap should be the metal recyclers, not your garage.

Do not touch it.

[DannyboyDS]

yeah but I didn't see him specifiy what commodore it is, it could be anything, maybe an SV or a BT1 or something that means its got some worth in putting the effort into.

If it's just your everyday commo, even a higher model, then yeah, whatever is still good should just get stripped off and the rest sent off for crushing.

[Philthy]

Lol @ BT1 being worth putting effort into

[excalibur]

sounds like a big heap of crap if you ask me

[excalibur]

yeah but I didn't see him specifiy what commodore it is, it could be anything, a BT1 or something that means its got some worth in putting the effort into.

[garlo]

Its actually a VN bt1 commo..I think I might give it a miss, im sure theres plenty of other BT1’s out there

Thanks for all the replys guys/girls.

[excalibur]

Its actually a VN bt1 commo..I think I might give it a miss, im sure theres plenty of other BT1’s out there

Thanks for all the replys guys/girls.

Sounds like a great idea