Have been reading a bit about using a fully synthetic oil to better protect my engine as I am planning on holding on to the VY for many years. I've been using Castrol Magnatec 10/40 at changes every 7,000 k's. What I'm wondering is if I were to completely drain the sump, as if doing a normal oil change, and then fill up with synthetic, would the tiny amount of residual mineral oil react with the synthetic in any way? I can't think of any way to completely get rid of ALL the mineral oil in the system.
Probably a stupid question, but just thought I'd ask those of you who've done it.![]()
'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'
Nah, just try get as much as you can out (let it drain overnight if possible). That will get a lot of it out. Run your synethic oil and feel the difference, then by the next time you change it it should have almost no mineral oil in it.
The mineral and synethic oils wont react with each other.
Thanks guys I might try a synthetic at my next change.... Ok which brand/viscosity? Don't want something that I'll need a loan to buy, LOL! But would like middle of the range stuff. Opinions please.
'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'
Definatly not. The OP has 10w40 running already. I would suggest a 0w* or at most 5w*. An engine was built and got synethetic oil (0wxx) put it in only a few months ago. 5000km's of use later it was taken back to the engineer because it hadn't beded in yet, motor was taken apart to find the engine had no wear in it at all because of the oil. It's now running on mineral oil until it beds in, then back to Synethetic. However, the one i would suggest would set you broke, so maybe speak to the guys wherever you get your oil from?
If you go Synthetic make sure you go a G4 Synthetic oil as opposed to a G3... Mobil 1 10w60 and Castrol Edge 10w60 are both G4s... If your paying less than $70 chances are its G3. (G3 isnt actually full synthetic but rather a mixture of mineral and additives. So it appears to be synthetic but as the additives break down the oil loses it rating and actually creates a "sludge". This is fine if you change the oil after like 5000km, but if you leave it in for longer its actually worse than standard mineral oil)
Im in the process of switching over to Mainlube 10w60, and its been recommended to use a flushing fluid to clean out the engine as much as possible.
Oh and the first number (EG 0w, 5w, 10w) refer to the viscosity rating when cold. If you live in areas wheres its often below zero, its important to get a low rating oil (eg 0w). However if you live in a normal area of australia, then 10w is perfect. The more important rating is the higher value as this is the viscosity rating at 110 degrees (normal operating temp).
I use SynPower 10W-50 it's good does make some noise on a cold start up, but runs great warm can't complain.
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