Engine Oil

[sostok]

The Missus car is a VXII V6 Ecotec with only 110,000kms on it...

Whats a really good oil to use? , As I wanna do a Oil Change..

I don't think its GTX-3 Castrol...


Any suggestions be good

TIA

[edals]

I use Valvoline Engine armour 10-30 as recommended by valvoline. But everyone has there own choice in the matter. I got 183,000 on it so its got a few kms on it now, so i want to protect it lol

[GOTMYN]

I use Nulon Mate, Full syn in the VE, and I use the Street and track formula in the Senator.
Never hear a tick or a tap from either engine, I always do both every 5000km with a new filter every time.

Click on the box to choose the right oil for your car :-)

100% Synthetic 15W-50 Street and Track Engine Oil - Nulon Products Australia

[wikky]

Use the search button as there's already 472,392,283,028 threads on engine oil. It gets old when people ask "I've got a car, which oil should I use?"

[feistl]

If you want to use proper oil, make sure its a Group 4 Full Synthetic oil.

Your main choice is either Mobil 1 (Currently on special for $62 at autobarn) or Castrol Edge. The other "full synthetic" Group 3 oils (if they cost less than $60 chances are their group 3) are actually a mineral oil mixed with additives.... They behave like G4s at the start, but after 5,000kms the additives start to break down...

This turns the oil into a sludge and will actually do more damage long term.

I use Nulon Mate, Full syn in the VE, and I use the Street and track formula in the Senator.[/url]

Nulon are ok, but they are a G3 oil. Fine if you change it ever 5000kms as it doesnt have a chance to break down... however past 8000kms and its actually doing damage to your engine.

A G4 oil should last 15,000-20,000kms and offer much better protection.

You could also use some Redline or Royal Purple... although they are expensive.

For anyone else reading this thread... if your after the best oil try mainlube race oil. $42 per Litre so an oil chance isn't exactly cheap....

Personally i only run Mainlube in the SS (performance engine), but run Castrol Edge in the WHII statesman (daily runner).

EDIT - Oh an anyone here who is kinda serious about their engine, only run Pure one oil filters. They are a little more than stock ones (Say $20 compared to $7) but are a LOT better for protection and life span. http://www.purolator.com.au/

Cheers

[sostok]

Thanks Heaps

I used Magnatec 10/40

[VS-S-PACK-UTE]

I use Nulon Mate, Full syn in the VE, and I use the Street and track formula in the Senator.
Never hear a tick or a tap from either engine, I always do both every 5000km with a new filter every time.

Click on the box to choose the right oil for your car :-)

100% Synthetic 15W-50 Street and Track Engine Oil - Nulon Products Australia

just out of curiosity how much does 5 ltrs of that nulon syn oil as u mentioned set u back? i would need to let the car sit overnight or so to drain it as good as i can get it yeah? coz i havnt run syn oil before.

[GOTMYN]

From memory it was around $40-$45, You can get it from supercheap, autobarn etc....

Yeh run the car up and get the oil hot, Use a rag to remove sump plug so you don't burn your fingers, Oil will drain quicker and freely if it is Hot....
I wouldn't say overnight, but get as nuch out as possible, say it drips once every few mins.....

I'd run the full syn for 1000km, then drain, and replace, that way the engine gets a good flush anyway....

Every time i buy a S/H car, I run it for 1000km with new oil and filter, then replace both and wait 5000km...
I recommend you service it every 5000km as this oil has addatives that break down over time( as stated earlier in this thread). Nothing wrong with it, just change it regularly.....

I love the stuff :-)

[VS-S-PACK-UTE]

cheers mate, i'll go that way then

[GOTMYN]

cheers mate, i'll go that way then

Good on ya mate,

If your near Mornington, I can give you a hand

[VS-S-PACK-UTE]

thanks heaps 4 the offer buddy but i should have it sorted, cheers mate.

[Scooter79]

If you want to use proper oil, make sure its a Group 4 Full Synthetic oil.

Your main choice is either Mobil 1 (Currently on special for $62 at autobarn) or Castrol Edge. The other "full synthetic" Group 3 oils (if they cost less than $60 chances are their group 3) are actually a mineral oil mixed with additives.... They behave like G4s at the start, but after 5,000kms the additives start to break down...

This turns the oil into a sludge and will actually do more damage long term.

This is simply not true. The difference between a group 3 oil and a group 4 oil is that group 4 has a base oil that is totally man made. I discussed this with vxcalais_01 who is a member of this forum and know more about oil than most. This is what he had to say on the matter:

Group 4 oil is the PAO oil used in Mobil
1, Castrol Edge, Amsoil, Penrite Sin, some of the Gulf Western oils, some
of the Motul oils and so on. There is another oil above this and its GRoup 5
Ester oil used my Motul and Redline, and Group5 is added to Castrol
Edge(says so on the bottle) and is used in the Group 4 oils as the PAO has
no natural seal swelling ability, and cleansing ability. PAO Group 4 benfit
is purely in how clean it is as its made from scratch and its main
performance in extremely hot and cold conditions.

...10,000k's with a SL/SM rated Synthetic oil is easily
achieved.

Nulon are ok, but they are a G3 oil. Fine if you change it ever 5000kms as it doesnt have a chance to break down... however past 8000kms and its actually doing damage to your engine.

A G4 oil should last 15,000-20,000kms and offer much better protection.

The difference between a group 3 and group 4 isn't about how good it protects.

[feistl]

Motor Oil Viscosity Grades Explained in Layman's Terms



Group IV (4) base oil (synthetics) are chemically made from uniform molecules with no paraffin and don't need Viscosity Additives . . . . In recent years Group III (3) based oils have been labelled "synthetic" through a legal loophole. These are petroleum based Group II (2) oils that have had the sulphur refined out making them more pure and longer lasting. Group III (3) "synthetic" motor oils must employ Viscosity Additives being petroleum based . . . Only the Group IV (4) PAO base synthetics have the saturated chemistry to resist degrading when exposed to the by products of combustion and heat, plus typically employ no Viscosity Imrpoving additives making them very thermally stable for longer periods. For this reason the Group IV (4) synthetics maintain peak mileage and power throughout their service life

[BowTie]

+2

it's all about shear resistance.

just pay the $60 and get the good one.