Thought it was bout time I chucked some brakes on the back of my wagz. Bought new oil seals for the axles, and the bearing has to be pressed off, to fit the seal, then pressed back on.
I don't really wanna pull both axles out coz of the minispool and not sure if the pin through the middle holds it tight, or whether if I pull the axles out it will move and I won't get the axles back in without taking the back plate off to hold the spool in position while the axles slide in....anyone know? I wasn't the one who fitted it so unsure how tight it would be.
I could just take one at a time to the workshop, or I guess I could just sit some other axles in there, but just wanna know wat would happen if both axles were out, would the spool sit tight on the pin, or move?
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I would imagine it would be a press fit so it shouldnt move, then again a good flogging could wear out the pin.
You could do one at i time but...
If you take out one axle, then shine a torch down the housing and line up the pin so it is horizontal to the ground and then pull out the other axle it shouldnt move and would stay central.
I would also think that with the spools design it should have no free play to the sides and should be machined to fit in the carrier nice and snug.
If its a salisbury diff if worse comes to worse its only a cover plate gasket to get the backing plate off anyway.
It's a borgy, but yeah same goes for that, just a backplate gasket. Since the diff got built it's done about 5 burnouts, and about 500m of driving and that's about it, so should look like new in there still lol.
I got another borgy centre with a minispool in it that I might pull to bits 2morrow and see how it fits in there. Hopefully it is a tight fit, then I shouldn't have any drama's.
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Just rip the axles out using the disc as a slide hammer ont he wheelnuts.
... do your axle seal...
and whack em back in!
the axles merely slide into the side of the minispool, they do nothing for holding the pin(s) in place.
the pin(s) are bashed through with a hammer to hold it all in place.
I had a look at a spare axle the other day and the bearing needs to be pressed off, as the oil seal goes behind it (I might have to go double check), so I gotta take them to a mates workshop. I wasn't sure if when both are out, the spool is sloppy and would move out of position for the axles, or whether it's in tight.
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Wheel bearings can be done without a press, however, it's certainly a lot easier with a press.
Just had a look at my workshop manual and apparently there's a collar pressed onto the axle to hold the bearing on, and if it comes off it needs to be replaced too.
How are the cones removed from the diff tube? Coz I may as well chuck new bearings in it. When the diff was built my mate said they were fine and didn't worry bout changing them. But now that the bearings gonna have to come off anyway, and this collar thing, I might get new bearings for it. Just didn't wanna have to trailer the car to my mates workshop just to get the cups removed.....so how are the cups removed? Anyone know?
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Just get a lever of some sort behind the cone and lever it out. The cone is a clearance fit and should slide out fairly easily.
Also, you can cut the bearing & collar off with an angle grinder if you're careful. That's how we get them off all the time at work as our press isn't wide enough to fit an axle in.
Sweet, that's great news!
Might go out and have a look now and see if I can pull the cups outta my old diff, just to see how easy it is, won't matter if I carve them up.
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Took a bit to get out, but definitely not hard. Just took a lot of taps to get her out. I'll post a pic of how I done it, for anyone else who's not quiet sure how to do it. I just used a big flat head screw driver, sat the head behind the bearing, used the flange bolts as the pivot point and tapped the opposite end of the screw driver. Kept working it around on each bolt and yeah got there eventually.
Putting it in was easier, just sat the bearing into position, used an old chisel to sit across the face, and tapped the chisel with a hammer. Then used a flat head screwdriver and tapped it against the outside edge of the bearing to tap it in the last few mm. Didn't do any damage so assume it should be ok using these methods in future.
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To get the collar off heat it with a gas axe, make sure you dont put heat onto axle, then use a cold chisel and a big hammer and smack it a few times with the axle well supported and it should crack open and it will come off.
Best way to put the bearing on is a long hollow bit of round tube over the axle and the same size as the inner bearing cone and a hydraulic pressto press it on.
Well the axles are out and so far the spool hasn't moved....beauty!
Asked my mate about doing the axles and he said he doesn't have time till next week, but he said I'm more then welcome to use his workshop and do them myself......but yeah gotta work the next 4 nights so might just go drop them off to another mates workshop and hopefully he can get them done by Monday so I can pick them up and throw them back in with the new disc setup! Bought new rotors, pads, caliper rebuild kits, bearing kits, hand brake shoes, and will get the backing plates and calipers acid dipped, then on Monday should be able to pick them up, paint them and throw it all 2gether and into the wagz. Found a seller on ebay who sells new handbrake cables for $120, but also found a second hand cable for $25 so went with that....just hope it isn't stretched to much lol![]()
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