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Thread: replacing harmonic balancer. need bolt and torque help.

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    Default replacing harmonic balancer. need bolt and torque help.

    i purchased a 25% under drive kit for my car so i will be replacing the harmonic balancer with this one hopefully on wednesday.
    what my question is..
    i heard when putting it back on.. you need to use the old bolt to tighten it.. then take it out and put in the new bolt and tighten it.
    is this correct?
    And to what torque specifications?
    thanks!

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    crankshaft balancer bolt
    stage 1 with new bolt -----------tighten too 50 nm
    stage2---------------------tighten further 140degrees

    stage1=step1
    stage2=step2

    you just need to make sure that when you fit it
    you line it up straight
    tap it on (kinda hard with a hammer)
    until a sufficient amount of thread is there isndie of the crank too tighten it
    then begin proccess
    remeber it needs to be seated so that it all the ribs on the other pulleys line up straight

    and i think you need a puller to get it off?

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    dont hit it on with a hammer its been know to result in dead oil pumps and no oil pressure use a longer threaded bolt to start it if need be
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
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    yeah i got all the tools to get it off just didnt know the specs..
    and 140 degrees as in nearly a half circle tighter ?

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    yes and
    as stated TAP IT ON TO START IT
    so its straight or you'll gouge out the shaft with the pulley
    you should be able to GENTLY tap it on far enough to start the bolt with enough thread to tighten it up

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    Why tap it on, when a bolt that is 20mm longer than the crank bolt is all that is needed to start it and avoid stripping out crank threads, or doing some other damage??? Is that how they do them at Holden?

    The guide I use states to torque the original bolt to 240ftlb, then break it free and insert the new bolt, which is torqued to 37ftlb, then tightened a further 140 degrees, to stretch it into the correct torque. I've only done around 15 of them but nothing has come loose yet.

    cheers
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    Quote Originally Posted by macca33 View Post
    Why tap it on, when a bolt that is 20mm longer than the crank bolt is all that is needed to start it and avoid stripping out crank threads, or doing some other damage??? Is that how they do them at Holden?

    The guide I use states to torque the original bolt to 240ftlb, then break it free and insert the new bolt, which is torqued to 37ftlb, then tightened a further 140 degrees, to stretch it into the correct torque. I've only done around 15 of them but nothing has come loose yet.

    cheers
    i have no idea how holden does it!
    an old techie from there showed me how to do it though
    i dont like chasing bolts all day to fit one balancer if i got another ten cars to do i need to move my arse!~!
    so ive worked out ways to do things on experience i have not either had these mess up or as a come back to the shop

    i will note that a friend of mine has a different technique thats way quicker than mine
    he oils the end of crank with air tool oil
    heats inside of balancer with his gas torch so its warm too touch
    smashes it on then puts old bolt in
    ratlle gun till its lined up with other pulleys
    then removes bolt and tourque sets new one
    he does them in like 6 or 7 minutes depending on how lazy hes feeling
    my way takes normally about 10 to 15 minutes
    but i ananly line up the pulleys with a laser aligner

    too me that seems rough just rattling it up instead of winding it in smoothly but
    he hasnt had any come nack either WAIT LIES
    he had one come back cause he pinched the crank seal into the pump housing
    but on pulling it apart we found some metal wedged behind the balancer later proved to be
    some chunks of spring washers off the becnch!~ that jackarse

    anyway the settings i gave are the specification from a manual for this model car

    the ve v8s use old bolt to push balancer on then new one too hold it in as you describe
    but yeah you will need to be careful if using a hammer to TAP IT ON as stated be as gentle as possible to start it evenly
    with the bolt

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    i started doing the job but cannot get the new one on because i dont have toe oversized bolt and tapping it didnt quite work
    i also noticed the new balancer has a keyway where as the old one didnt... is it still right to go on ? or should i give yella terra a call.

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    Quote Originally Posted by macca33 View Post
    Why tap it on, when a bolt that is 20mm longer than the crank bolt is all that is needed to start it and avoid stripping out crank threads, or doing some other damage??? Is that how they do them at Holden?

    The guide I use states to torque the original bolt to 240ftlb, then break it free and insert the new bolt, which is torqued to 37ftlb, then tightened a further 140 degrees, to stretch it into the correct torque. I've only done around 15 of them but nothing has come loose yet.

    cheers
    This. and of course they are a torque to yield bolt, one use only.

    give yella terra a call, but i think that keyway is normal. haven't studied mine yet so no help from me
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    i would ring yella terra and check you dont have one for a model with a keyway!~

    the balancer inside whould look same as crank
    some times you just remove keyway to fit them
    but would check with retailer first

    i did some research on this too
    i found that in very problomatic balancers (for fitting standard one anyway same center piece)
    sometimes you have to use some buuka rod and a thick washer and big nuts to physically wind the balancer on

    buuka rod (probably not right spelling) is just the thread of a bolt with no head on it
    sold at bolts shops
    be sure too match correct thread of bolt too rod
    get cut too length that fits between engine and fan/radiator

    use of rod instructions (found in a vn manual who'd of thought):
    put washer onto rod
    fit one nut on by itself (A)
    then fit nuts on there so they lock to eachother (B)
    put it through balancer into crank shaft and wind it in by hand to crank using nuts(B)
    when rod is in at about two thirds of crank bolt length
    push washer untill touches balancer onto cranks shaft
    wind nut (A) till holds washer flat onto balancer
    then hold nuts (B) with shifter
    and wind nut (A) until balancer on deep enough
    remove rod
    fit new bolt and tighten to spec

    be careful not to go too far or may damage
    be carfule to have only max depth of crank bolt (of rod) into crank

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    All the Powerbond 25% UD balancers do have a keyway as standard. It is no problem for you on a stock crank without a key fitted.

    cheers
    Senator 300 - the CLASSY C4B!

    LS1 - ETP215 @ 62cc, Comp 215/223 .602/.609 @111+3, 8.050" P/R, Morel link-bar lifters, Powerbond 25% UDP, 36lb injectors, SLP pump, Rollmaster timing chain, OTRCAI, T-56 - RipShift, 3.91:1 rear, DiFilippo 1.75" 4-1s St/St HPC coated, DiFilippo twin 3" st/st cat-back, 3" metal substrate hi-flow cats. AP-Racing 6/4-pots. EFIlive COS3 SD tune. 308RWKW. My ride:-http://www.cardomain.com/ride/389253...lden-commodore


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