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Thread: Car Battery

  1. #1
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    Default Car Battery

    Hey all.

    Got a VZ and my headlights are dimming due to my stereo (split in the front, 6" in the rear and 2x12" subs - all on 2 amps) but my battery only has 12v when the car is off (told the minimum should be 12.5v) so I presume it's dying. It's a "SuperCharge" battery from the previous owner.

    My question is, how do people rate the RAC Premium battery? Or should I go for the Optima Yellow top ($330 delivered)?

    I will also be doing the "Big 3" but I'll need to replace my battery regardless.

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    Hangman's Avatar
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    If your headlights are dimming with the car running, wouldn't that be your alternator? I would've thought 12v with the car off would be fine, but don't quote me.
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    go to autobarn and ask the guys there i would even recomend running 2 batteries when you have a decent sound system
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    acarmody is offline Donati..Whoa Green
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    12v is fine, if it gets lower than worry. How much RMS power is the sub amp putting out?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Hangman View Post
    If your headlights are dimming with the car running, wouldn't that be your alternator? I would've thought 12v with the car off would be fine, but don't quote me.
    +1 i agree

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    have a look into getting a capacitor?!?!

    my headlights, tailights and interior lights dim aswell :P

  7. #7
    acarmody is offline Donati..Whoa Green
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cameron P View Post
    have a look into getting a capacitor?!?!

    my headlights, tailights and interior lights dim aswell :P
    A capacitor won't solve a dodgy electrical system.

    I still want to know how much RMS power the amps are putting out. I run 300wrms of splits and currently have 700wrms of bass and not a hint of dimming. When I hook up the other amp and sub I have 1400wrms of bass and a slight hint of dimming, but I am yet to do the Big 3 upgrade.
    -Democracy must be something more than two wolves and a sheep voting on what to have for dinner.
    James Bovard, Civil Libertarian (1994)
    -Giving money and power to government is like giving whiskey and car keys to teenage boys.
    P.J. O'Rourke, Civil Libertarian
    -Government's view of the economy could be summed up in a few short Phrases: If it moves, tax it. If it keeps moving, regulate it. And if it stops moving, subsidize it.
    Ronald Reagan (1986)

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    Mine is similar. Im running a 1000w sub amp from my battery and i notice my lights dip a little bit when the sub beats. i like it tho its like a disco when i drive haha

    i have to ask aswell what is the big 3?
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  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by acarmody View Post
    A capacitor won't solve a dodgy electrical system.

    I still want to know how much RMS power the amps are putting out. I run 300wrms of splits and currently have 700wrms of bass and not a hint of dimming. When I hook up the other amp and sub I have 1400wrms of bass and a slight hint of dimming, but I am yet to do the Big 3 upgrade.
    in my lancer my lights were dimming big time suprised it didnt stall.. put a capacitor in off my mate and no dimming so i think it would solve it lol

    i have 1700rms of bass and mine dims... its noticable but not badly

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    Quote Originally Posted by -VY LoVeR- View Post
    Mine is similar. Im running a 1000w sub amp from my battery and i notice my lights dip a little bit when the sub beats. i like it tho its like a disco when i drive haha

    i have to ask aswell what is the big 3?
    If your still wondering ( you've probably already looked it up ) but the big 3 is just an upgrade in 3 different sections of power wiring under the bonnet.

    Usually done in at least 0 awg or equivalent wire ( welding flex )

    1) wire from Negative battery to body

    2) Wire from negative battery to Engine block

    3) Wire from positive battery to Alternator

    Correct me if i'm wrong but it think this is the big 3?
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  11. #11
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    U can run 50.000RMS and have no dimming-just tuned right down ha.
    I run just over 4.500RMS all up and only 1 battrey.(big 3 done!) no headlight dimming at all!, but i have HID's and they need hardly any power at all so that would be why, all the rest of the light's dimm full on. I have voltage drop to under 10.4V
    I think the only way to go with big systems is 2 battrey's + HO alt. but HO alt's are hard to get in AUS.
    Standard good quality battrey up front and yellow top in the boot, Dont worry about using Cap's they only make things worse because they will give u the power u need for like 1 sec but take 5 secs to charge up again and use all the power to charge. Just use a yellowtop or any deep cycle battrey instead of cap.
    Sorry that dident help with your question but it may help a tad toward the dimming issues.
    Good luck!

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    A single yellow top should be fine. I have been using one of these with high output alpine gear (sorry can't remember RMS output) and in car dvd players for around 12 months without any problems. No dimming of lights and car always starts first go, even when not used for a few weeks.

  13. #13
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    What's your budget for a battery? I'd get a Deka Intimidator over a D34 yellowtop, the Deka's seem to cope with the cold weather a bit better and are cheaper too. But as these people have said, you need to have adequate wiring for a stereo. A good battery has no point without good wiring.
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