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Thread: bonnet problem

  1. #1
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    1997 VS Ute series II

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    Default bonnet problem

    hey guys car has had the problem since i got it and gettin really annoying. when i want to open the bonnet it wont pop unless someone is pushing down on the front near the spring when i pull the lever? gets reaaaaaalllllllyyy annoying being home alone and having to wait for someone to come home just to open it. cheers

  2. #2
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    Vy 5.7 one tonner

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    It sounds to me like it's not lined up properly. We have had this problem on our old valiant. Check all the gaps when it's closed to see if bonnet is in the correct position. If not try adjusting it back or forth.

  3. #3
    Not_An_Abba_Fan's Avatar
    Not_An_Abba_Fan is offline Exhaust Guru
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    Most of the time it is put down to a stretched cable, but the cable doesn't stretch, the spring holding the catch bends.

    You will need to use two screw drivers and bend the spring out on the end that the cable attaches to. Hold the pin over with one screw driver and bend it with the other. It only has to go about 5mm and then the bonnet will open with the lever.
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  4. #4
    turmoil117's Avatar
    turmoil117 is offline Donating Member
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    vn berlina, vr statesman

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    I had this problem in my vn when I installed a vs cold air intake. All I had to do to open it is hit the corner of the bonnet with one hand while pulling the lever with the other. But my vn was pretty rough so unless you car is the same I wouldn't suggest doing this

  5. #5
    Calaber's Avatar
    Calaber is offline Nil Bastardo Carborundum
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    For the bonnet to open properly, there are a few things you need to check. Abbafan(not) has told you about the stretched cable which is a common Commodore fault, especially in hot weather. Other things to look for are a dry bonnet striker pin (it should be well greased), incorrect striker pin adjustment, bump rubber adjustment and free movement of the locking spring on the radiator support panel.

    The striker and bump rubbers should be adjusted at the same time. The idea is to have the striker screwed into the bonnet just far enough to put compression on the bump rubbers, and for the bump rubbers to be screwed into the bonnet to the point that the bonnet sits flush with the top of the guards when closed. By screwing the striker in, and compressing the rubbers, they help to pop the bonnet when you pull the release. Don't screw the striker in too far or the bonnet won't shut, or could shut and be too tight to release. Adjust a little bit at a time.

    For the spring in the support panel, just ensure it isn't broken and is able to move freely.

    The cable can be adjusted to take up any slack and should move freely in its housing.

  6. #6
    Grennan's Avatar
    Grennan is offline Slayer of Stupid Threads
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    Lube it up. Cover the latch in WD40 or something. It works if its not to badly ####ed.
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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grennan View Post
    Lube it up. Cover the latch in WD40 or something. It works if its not to badly ####ed.
    +1 for this option. Mine was exactly the same and I just sprayed some silicone spray on all the components and now it works perfectly

    Definitely give it a shot first then if all else fails go down the path of the other options.

  8. #8
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    Yeah my old VR did it. Every 6 months I just lubed it up. Worked fine.
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