Hey guys, i took my rear wheels off today to paint my calipers. When i took my rear passenger wheel off i noticed 2 of the wheel nuts were stripped bot on the same side one was real tight the whole way off and the other was just loose not (will not grab), i put the wheel back on and it was the same (obvioulsy) 1 loose 1 tight the whole way on (other 3 are fine). question is, what needs to be replace how hard is it to do, Or how much with a mechanic?
It's a really simple job you can do yourself with minimal tools. To play it safe, replace the studs and nuts. The studs are a simple press fit into the axle flange.
Remove the wheel, then re-screw a nut onto the suspect stud, leaving a few threads inside the nut clear of the stud. One or two good whacks with a hammer should drive the stud out of the flange.
To replace, just push the new stud in from the rear, then place a few washers over the stud and screw on a good wheel nut, reversed so that the taper faces you. As you tighten the nut against the washers, the stud will pull into the flange.
If the studs are okay then new nuts will fix your problem.
If the studs are stripped they will need to be knocked out and replaced. How much? How long is a piece of string?
This problem is a VERY good reason why as preventative maintenance the wheels should be removed on a yearly basis, a little grease put onto the stud and the nuts put on by hand rather than the monkeys that that overdo it with rattle guns.
Thank you very much for your quick response calaber, Where would i be able to pick them up from, repco would have them in stock? What am i actually asking for sorry.
Mate, the simplest place would be your Holden dealer but Repco would also be an option. They are simply called wheel studs and nuts. Make sure you ask for VE ones as they were different to all the earlier models (larger diameter stud).
Do you have a Burson's local to you? They tend to be pretty good with stock
"The mind is its own place, and in itself, can make a Heaven of Hell, a Hell of Heaven."
apparently wasting my time with 97 cubic inches
milk doesnt come in 1.6 litres
hmm, ok. Yeah will definitely be done Monday.
If you only have one wheel which has 2 suspect studs or nuts, you could safely take one nut from another wheel and see if you can tighten it up on the suspect studs.
If the nut tightens up without problems, you could safely drive with five nuts on two wheels and four nuts on the other two, until Monday.
Also, if you can tighten a nut up properly on both suspect studs, and the threads on those studs don't appear to have been damaged, then they might still be ok to use and you might be lucky enough to just need two nuts and leave the existing studs in place.
I have already tried that, 4 nuts on the wheel are tight, but one of them is stripped but tight. The 5th nut is loose and another nut wont go on smoothly not wanting to bugger another nut trying to get it on there. i can deal with not driving till monday but my fiance finishes work at 11pm monday night in the city so i kinda need it fixed to pick her up. So ill speak to my mechanic monday morning and try and get it up there, if not ill go buy the parts and see how i go by myself. What will need to be removed to get the studs in behind, i cant seem to see where it will be going into?
Sorry for all the questions i just really dont know much of what im doing, Im just glad i found them now rather then a wheel falling off down the freeway!
Thanks alot for your help calaber, Tried to leave rep but i cant it tells me i need to spread my love around :P
I'm guessing that the VE setup is similar to mine, but I don't have ready access to a VE to make sure my advice is correct. If the brake assembly is similar to mine, this is the method I use to dismantle the rear brakes.
1. Place car in park and release the hand brake.
2. You will need to remove one caliper retaining bolt (the bottom one), swing the caliper up to clear the pads, then slide the caliper out of its top mounting pin and put it to one side, just as you would when replacing the rear pads. You don't need to touch the hydraulic line connection.
3. The pads then pull out.
4. You then need to remove the caliper mounting bracket. These are held on with two bolts that will be locktited in, so they will be very stiff to start off.
5. The disc should then slide off. It might need a bit of jiggling to clear the brake shoes.
6. Once the disc is off, use an old paintbrush to de-dust the brakes. (It's worth doing this anyway on both wheels whenever you adjust the handbrake.)
7. The stud will drive out through the axle flange, so you need to make sure the stud you are removing will clear the brake mechanism behind it. Rotate the axle to a point where there is space to drive the stud out without hitting anything.
8. Replacing the stud is just a reversal of the whole procedure. The stud will push through the hole in the flange a little bit, but will have to be "pulled" right home by the method I outlined in the first post.
Good luck - let us know how you go. If you lived closer to my place, I'd do it for you as a favor but you'll be ok, it's really a pretty simple job.
Once again Thank you so much for your help Calaber.
ok well im not trying it today, cant get the parts, so ill see if the mechanic has time tomorrow. If not ill give it a go in the afternoon.
As I said in post no. 13, you don't have to touch the hydraulics so no brake bleeding is involved. It's a pity you can't have a go at this job as it's a simple task and would have been a good learning experience for you. Rather than taking photos to illustrate the VE setup, perhaps another member on the forum can advise if the procedures for the VE are identical to earlier models?
As I mentioned above, if you lived closer, I would have shown you what to do as a favour, but Padstow's about 90 minutes from here. I just hope your mechanic doesn't take you to the cleaners.
I'd rather do it myself but i really dont have time unless its the weekend, And i dont really think i can last all week without my car. I will ring up in the morning for parts (price) and then ring the mechanic if his price is over the top i will do it myself (try anyway).
I'd drive to you but im a little scared to haha, just goes to show how good of a bloke you are, Cheers mate.
Hey mate i've just taken 2 of my wheels of and all of my studs look like this This is not my suspected stripped studs and im guessing this is not right?
That's normal for a VE, the threads don't go all the way to the end of the studs.
I tried it myself today, The main wheel hub bolt (36mm) is also cross threaded, im thinking that end of the car has been pulled apart for some reason before i bought it and all put back together ####ed up.
i dont know what it is that im after but i took some photos, will i only be able to get this from a VE or will earlier models have the same part? My brother said im after a Drive shaft and wheel hub? how do i removed the shaft, And where would i find another one? are there any VE wreckers anywhere in sydney? andalso if you could, How do i remove this?
Last edited by Pickle'; 10-07-2011 at 08:29 PM.
I'm not sure why you wanted to remove the hub nut, unless it has to be done to remove the disc? Your photo isn't clear enough to discern the state of the threads on the end of the shaft. What condition is the hub nut thread like? It looks to me like you have gone much further than you needed to just to replace a couple of dud studs. In answer to your question regarding whether those parts are exclusive to VE or interchangeable with earlier models, the answer is they were specifically VE - the entire rear suspension on the VE was a new design. I don't think any of the axles or hubs from earlier models will suit.
If that thread on the hub is stuffed, I wouldn't be trying to replace the CV or the axle - I'd have the thread re-cut with the proper sized die by a properly equipped machine shop, unless the damage to the thread is minimal. How bad is the damage to the thread?
Dont CV joint nuts have a tang or part that is chiseled into the thread to stop it coming loose and you've just made that grind half the thread off as you undone it? If its like that and you can start it without cross threading it, the part of the thread where you tighten up fully on should fine still as the tang hasnt gouged into it if that makes sense.
And you seem to have gone a little crazy pulling it apart to just replace wheel studs, all you had to take off was the caliper and rotor!!
why take out the pads when its easyer to drop off the hole caliper?
replaced mine last week on a vt tho
droped the shock- easyer to get the gun into for the caliper.
droped the caliper
smashed with a hammer
new on in and pulled into place.
make sure ur hand brake is down as well.