T5 Oil Change + questions

[Trayner]

OK guys going to attempt to change the oil in the t5 , (I think the clutch is starting to slip in 2nd )
So I thought a oil change will at least help me out a little bit while I save up the funds for a new clutch.



Question 1.
From what I have read on here Ill need to use
"CASTROL VMX 80 SAE 75W/80, API GL4" but some people have said to use "CASTROL TQ DIII"
Which have people used and what do they think is better ??

Question 2.
Process
So from what I read its just a matter of undoing the bottom bolt and it drains out , bolt back in .
Undo top bolt and use some sort of pump to pump around 2 litres into the box and then bolt back on and off I go

What type of filling techniques do people use ? a pump or some sort of short tubing ?


Question 3.
In the long run I know im going to need a new clutch , so what have people used in the t5's ? I dont want to spend a fortune on the clutch , so the cheaper yet reliable is better for me . what costs would it normally take to get a new one put in ?
Going by what the previous owner told me the ute has a "Exeddy clutch and spigot bush" in it .

[kniever]

best done after a drive so the oil is warm and will flow better, undo both plugs and let drain, put the bottom one back in and fill till oil is coming out the top hole then put the plug back in. i used a long hose and went thru the front wheel well.

i always used penrite dex3 and and additive called lubrizol LZ 7906 - Penrite Oil in my t5 and she ran great and i would use it again if i got another t5 but other people will say different to what they have tried and liked, holden specified to use dex3 from vr onwards or something

[VK SL 3800]

Above is right, VR onwards specify DEX3 but many run this without a worry in the earlier versions. I have a T5 from a VP and use Castrol syntrans 75w 85. Works a treat and gearbox is quieter then it was with DEX3.

To fill, if im at home i use a piece of plastic pipe ( a clean garden hose would probably do the trick) and i have cut the bottom off an old oil additive bottle and put the hose over the top as it the right size, whatever work really. Fill until it begins to run out the top hole.

I did the clutch in mine not that long ago, it was $160 for an exeddy std clutch. I didnt bother with the spigot as it hasnt done many K's. I dont know what labour would be, it takes about half a day to do, longer if you run into problems. Plus you have to machine your flywheel about another $40-50 bucks. So best call your mechanic for a quote.

[Darren_L]

some T5's use a regular 80 grade gear oil, whereas others used the ATF fluid.
the reason they went to the ATF fluid in the later T5's is because the synchro ring material changed. If you use the 80 oil, you can bugger these boxes.
If in doubt, you are probably best using ATF

clutch ? Depends what sort of power your engine is making & driving style - standard duty clutches won't take a lot of abuse. There are some cheap budget clutches out there that suit a standard engine. PBR/RPM make some affordable good quality clutches, including heavy duty. But if your engine is making some decent power, better off going with something like an Exedy

[Trayner]

Changed the oil today to this penrite stuff to suit the vs T5 , and on the bottle it said for boxes that use ATF fluid , goes a lot smoother then it used to .
We will see how this goes for a bit now


Darren_L
Umm not alot of power man , just want a heavy clutch thats holds up well