Help with RWC "defects"

[Irukanji]

Sup,

Probably gonna get flamed for this but I kinda need some advice.

Anyway, stuck the VT in for a roadworthy today and the list came back with some "defects". The rocker cover gaskets and power steering leaks are understandable, but where do I stand on the headlights problem? Or even the strut boots and muffler mounting rubbers?(I've never seen the rubbers without at least a crack, even in new cars). Plus the tiny dent on the rear tail light in the dark section of it....

List;
Power Steering oil leaks
Front strut boots broken
Left hand side tail light lens broken(there is a small dent on the very left side, as far forward as it goes...doesn't affect brake/tail lights at all)
LHS headlight faded(headlights still work fine on low and high beam I tested them out on the highway last night)
Headlights to be aimed(see above)
Muffler mounting rubbers broken(What cars aren't?)
Engine oil leak to be rectified + Engine to be cleaned + checked(rocker cover gaskets. only legit problem on the whole list. A clean engine isn't going to affect driveability)

I only have enough money for the rego transfer and some small parts(just bought the car), so cost saving is priority lol. Only need 1 rocker cover gasket(already have one for this motor, somehow). Can I remove the yellow bit from the headlight, or will it have to be replaced?

[m1lky]

Cracked lights let in moisture.

Cut and polish should clean up the headlight

You align them by yourself by pointed them against a wall and winding the screw up or down

Rubber mount will cost you stuff all

Depending how bad the leaks are you may get away with just cleaning it.

Which strut boots?

[HoZy]

Ok so...

You post up here looking for what exactly?

Get an orbital buffer & cutting/polishing compound onto your headlight.
Replace the tail light,
Fix all your leaks etc...

I'm not sure what you are really after...

Fix the issues, Pass the roadworthy.

[Irukanji]

Front boots.

The lights work correctly on the road, which is what the guy didn't understand. They light up everything within 100m on low and 200m on high, so I can't see where he's found a problem.

I'll get some cut and polish for the headlight, thanks.

[padrickz88]

All look like easy problems to fix......
Go buy a gregories manual and it will show you how to fix most things on that list...

Honestly, that's a pretty lenient rwc for a 10+ year old car...

[Dr HaxZaw]

hhhmm i dont have front boots anymore cause they dont fit the different struts

[Pub247]

Its kind of wierd as fords dont run boots on their front shocks. I might be just they way theyre made...

As for tailight it should pass a rwc (thought everyone is different) mine is cracked and it passed a rwc and inspection (not that they looked hard at vicroads) I've been "told" that as long as no clear light shines through its a pass....

As for headlight polish it no big deal..

Exhaust replace them cost you $10 for a few

[Irukanji]

Thanks guys(and gals if present). I talked to mum and she'll talk to the mechanic and tell him what needs to be said...I'm not the best talker

Bottom of the gearbox is wet(oil), so it'll need a clean before I can find the leak, probably the back of the sump gasket, which isn't too painful to do.

Also, where else could the power steering be leaking? I can't see anything from the bottle to the pump, and then from there its too cluttered to see without jacking up...never had to deal with power steering before(last car was a 1987 Mazda 626, no power steering, much more fun)...perhaps near the end of the steering column?

Thanks

[patrick niesler]

General issue with power steering leaks is from the reservoir to the pump or return line into the reservoir, basically leaked from factory floor. Last one I did was an o-ring which went into the pump beside the outlets, $2 item from Holden and a good degrease from around the pump and hoses.

[Huntington]

I would be stoked if i put a car of that age in for rwc and thats all i got listed

[RK5TAR]

Im with Huntington on this one!

Mine came out with 17 rejected items and Id already done the big jobs like steering rack and front brakes.

I took my oil leak and had it steam cleaned and bolts tightened up and it was back to the rwc place within 2 days and that item was passed. Its only just started leaking again the last couple of weeks and my rwc was in october. So if its not a major leak, a steam clean of your engine will get you by.

I had other items like my bushes on the back were stuffed, side skirts loose,windscreen and the child booster seat in the back wasnt tethered in ( i just took it out the car).

My rejected items cost me a further $400 all up it cost me almost $3k to get this car all up to scratch.
If you shop around, some wreckers offer a fitting service for parts and it halves the cost compared to if you fitted new.

I found a good parts recycler/mechanic and he has pretty much rebuilt my car way cheaper than the mechanics/parts places local to me.

I also asked on here for recommended RWC testers who werent going to tear me a new one for the hell of it. I got a good place that was thorough enough but not overboard.

I think the other posters have been helpful. If you come on here and ask legitimately and don't whine like a princess, you will get some good advice.

[Irukanji]

General issue with power steering leaks is from the reservoir to the pump or return line into the reservoir, basically leaked from factory floor. Last one I did was an o-ring which went into the pump beside the outlets, $2 item from Holden and a good degrease from around the pump and hoses.

Thanks. Thats the only place we could see a leak too, just underneath the power steering fluid reservoir.

Only cost me $2,500 all up, but needed 4 tyres and of course these small problems.

[HSV5L]

I would degrese the engine and bay than tire shine in there. Polish the headlights with autosol. And give it a full detail and hand polish. Oh and dont forget the tire shine. Than it will look mint and they will pass it works for me.

[calais24/7]

Sup,

List;
1) Power Steering oil leaks
2)Front strut boots broken
3)Left hand side tail light lens broken(there is a small dent on the very left side, as far forward as it goes...doesn't affect brake/tail lights at all)
4)LHS headlight faded(headlights still work fine on low and high beam I tested them out on the highway last night)
5)Headlights to be aimed(see above)
6)Muffler mounting rubbers broken(What cars aren't?)
7)ngine oil leak to be rectified + Engine to be cleaned + checked(rocker cover gaskets. only legit problem on the whole list. A clean engine isn't going to affect driveability)

1- depending how bad, degrease entire engine bay before getting it re inspected. if bad, replace pump with good second hand unit
2- replace
3-if it's a dent and not cracked then it should be ok, but some places will pass it others won't, you got failed on it so either replace or get it inspected elsewhere
4- bit of a cut and polish should bring it up nicely
5- depends on the inspector, either aim them, or take elsewhere (aiming them is free and a piece of piss)
6- fix muffler mounts, the rubbers are cheap as, no where will pass with those broken
7-do the rocker cover gaskets and the morning before re inspection, degrease the fk out of the entire bay.

this is what i would do and have done, i am not a mechanic tho, goodluck

oh and make sure your car is clean, i mean on the inside to, nothing would piss me off more as an inspector then getting in a dirty grubby car, it also makes it more looked after.

[m1lky]

Ah the wonders of degreaser. Personally I prefer to use brake cleaner though. Don't have to hose it off.

With rwc, once it fails can you just take it elsewhere? If you're doing that, just cut the shock boots off. As above, many shocks don't have them and they're pointless.

If its an auto and leaking from the sump pan get yourself a filter kit and service the tranny. You'll thank yourself once you drive a freshly services one.

Everything on your list can be done yourself with very limited tools and experience. Just post up about the jobs and people can help you out if you don't know.

Here's how to do headlights properly.
http://www.popularmechanics.com/cars/how-to/repair/1347221
I've only ever had one out in vertical do I've put it square with the wall and bought it up level with the other one.

[Irukanji]

If you're doing that, just cut the shock boots off. As above, many shocks don't have them and they're pointless.

If its an auto and leaking from the sump pan get yourself a filter kit and service the tranny. You'll thank yourself once you drive a freshly services one.

I considered cutting them off for the time being, but since it's already inspected and it'll cost me $40 for 2 boots or $160+ for another roadworthy at a different place, might as well get them done. Do I need spring compressors to re-install the springs? Probably the only thing I don't have which will be a problem.

oh and make sure your car is clean, i mean on the inside to, nothing would piss me off more as an inspector then getting in a dirty grubby car, it also makes it more looked after.

The usual clear coat bubbles(which have popped) on the outside, got new tires and the dust has already stuck to them. The inspector is alright though, local bloke and being in the country I guess he would be a bit more lenient with cars as opposed to some blokes in the city.

Anybody know a place like "Pick a Part" in Melbourne/Bendigo where you take the parts from the cars yourself and then pay like $50-60 for whatever you can carry or a set fee for motors?(There is one in Perth in Kenwick, but I'm 3500km away, so that isn't much help).

[m1lky]

I was meaning if you doing it for other reasons. Ie oil leaks.

Yes you will need spring compressors to do the boot as you need to take the top hat off the shock. Head down to Repco or supercrap. There're not too expensive and worth having.

[ucwepn]

yes that is a modest list of items, I needed engine mounts, new springs, new wheels, abs module + unit, reco upgraded tailshaft + flanges and more. The list you have provided is relatively minor. Shouldn't cost too much mate mine was over $2k. The trouble with going somewhere else is they can find more things.

[Irukanji]

Anyway got the muffler mounting rubbers done, popped the clip off, cut the old ones off, pushed the new ones on. There were maybe 4 shallow cracks forming in one of the rubbers back there, none affecting the holding of the muffler. Only found 2, so I'm guessing there are 2 more required further up, towards the cat? Or is there 2 more hiding out of sight?

It poured today, and the right tail light filled with water, so going to have to replace that one too...

Repco and Supercheap didn't have the boots...so that may be a problem.

Guess the task for tomorrow is to jack the bastard up and see where the leak is coming from, assuming there is a leak.

Is a fair guess of $20-30 each for tail lights(2nd hand) and $30-50 for non-cloudy(2nd hand) head lights reasonable? Or should I be expecting more?

[cor3yz]

I bought my missus an excel. Took it for a roady. Too smokey, had to change the motor. *sigh*
And other stuff