https://docs.google.com/open?id=0BwH...Y0YWFkZjAzMDQy
Before you state the obvious, yes I know most(99%) of cars are 4 stroke, but the principals are exactly the same. Perhaps even more so when dealing with 4-stroke because of the added weight of all the extra stuff internally...(in terms of lightening internals). You can ignore the bit on expansion tubes, since I don't think they would give any advantage to a 4-stroke, probably detrimental performance.
Anyway, you probably won't find a use for it, or I've posted it in the wrong forum, or maybe you do get a use from it(or you already have it). If it doesn't work, just post and I'll fix it asap.
Nice thread man, I will be checking out the site shortly.
I leave you with this
EDIT: Lol my father has this book!
My ride-VS commo, Just finishing the manual conversion. Working out those annoying bits!
Principles between 2 and 4 stroke tuning are completely different. The way they fire, the way the exhaust and inlet works, the effect the exhaust has on the engine. The only similarities are fuel, spark and compression.
There's a bagillion reasons why we don't have 2 stroke cars.
They ware faster, not as economics, there about as eco friendly as farting in your hand and smelling it ect. ect.
Go pretty hard in a bike, I have a WR250f and my House mates RM125 does a pretty good job of keeping up.
I guess my original post didn't make the similarities clear, and people didn't bother(or can't) read...
The book covers some stuff which is found in all piston-driven motors, like it or not.
The theory for the pistons still applies to 4-stroke.
The theory of lightening internals still applies to 4-stroke.
The enlarging of (stock) exhaust and intake ports applies to 4-stroke heads.
The polishing/removing of casting defects(etcetera) in 2-stroke motors applies to 4-stroke. However it could be argued that enlarging and/or polishing ports in heads is useless without other modifications in terms of increasing power, but I'm not going to judge it, and I'm sure somebody will be offended if I took one side over the other.
The principal on how a 2-stroke and a 4-stroke generates power are identical, they both burn petrol and air in order to generate reciprocal forces on the crankshaft in order to generate a more usable form of energy(a single spinning rod). Just because the means the air/fuel mixture is delivered to the cylinder and the means it is removed are different doesn't change the fact.
The exhaust is much different, sure.
Ignition is more or less the same.
The book also cover carburettors, but since it's easier/cheaper to fit cars with fuel injection, that isn't really relevant unless you're rebuilding an old Commodore or something.
Completely different you say? That's why you have eyes, so you can pick out the information you need from the gunk and use it for whatever you need the information for![]()
Find me a better book, and upload it, if this book has no use.
attaboy, throw a bunch of information, with only some of it related to 4 stroke engines, at the noobs and hope to god they can work out what relates to their cars by themselves!!
a for effort, f for implementation
why dont you throw up some books on rotary engines aswell for good measure
so thats going to come in handy when it comes to getting a mates aprilia rs 125 race bike to sing.
just had a quick glance over it and it seems to be a good guide to help narrow variables to to make some more specific, educated changes.
with some luck we can get it to really move.
so thanks for this... at least one person is happy.
a commodore is a good all round car that is easily available, and has a wide range of purposes.
and a p plate is less common then a chev badge these days anyway. =P
im still confused why a thread about 2 stroke motors has popped up in a forum that is predominately 4 stroke based.
hell even the mowers and other stuff at alot of homes ares 4 stroke .
but im sure it will teach me why i stuffed up that blower vac by putting 4 stroke fuel in it, when it was a 2 stroke based item.... (old man didnt tell me)
rofl, I could never understand the purpose of a Chevy badge on a Commodore(a newer model), when chances are it's the stock ecotec/alloytec motor anyway with some extractors and a catback to make it sound different. And the P-plate remark was based on the fact the average P-plater who drives a Commodore can barely read, let alone appreciate good information.
There are some little gems of information in the book which directly relate to all internal combustion engines. There are a few bits dealing with 2-stroke only things.im still confused why a thread about 2 stroke motors has popped up in a forum that is predominately 4 stroke based.
hell even the mowers and other stuff at alot of homes ares 4 stroke .
but im sure it will teach me why i stuffed up that blower vac by putting 4 stroke fuel in it, when it was a 2 stroke based item.... (old man didnt tell me)
Maybe some people will think outside the box more, and then they will find more than they ever dreamt of looking for.
nice contradiction there.
if most of us cannot read. posting link to book is definately a great option! =P
if you cannot tell im just pulling your leg
dont worry when i have a spare moment ill take a look at it.
im still trying to understand the concept of why oil is put into the fuel. (i can sorta see why now thanks to diagram up the page)
i wonder if ill find out the info as to whether some fuel is just shot straight through or not.
also curious.
which cars are 2 stroke?
Just some old Euro cars.
For four stroke engines their is plenty of Hot rodders hand books etc out there. Besides a motorcycle carb is completely different than a car carb. Although I'v always wanted to try put one on a car lol
Maybe that book has information on magnetos, some guys may find that useful.
EDIT: scroll to the bottom, there is some info on spark plugs. might be handy
My ride-VS commo, Just finishing the manual conversion. Working out those annoying bits!
As long as you aren't a P-plater, you should be fine xD. Otherwise Gregories would go out of business.
The oil is mixed with the fuel, and then the fuel/oil/air mixture is used to lubricate the cylinders, or something like that. Of course, the oil gets burned along with the fuel/air mixture. I'd imagine it has a way of sticking to the cylinder walls/crankshaft. Then it removes the need for a wet sump(or any oil storage at all), keeping overall weight downim still trying to understand the concept of why oil is put into the fuel. (i can sorta see why now thanks to diagram up the page)
On a two stroke you cant have a wet sump because when you look at my GIF you will see it, when the piston compress's the fuel/air the upward direction of the piston draws in air thought the carb into the crank case. then when the intake charge (above the piston) burns its pushes the piston down (the reed valve slams shut) and just before BDC the transfer port is opened and fuel air rushes into the combustion chamber and forces out the exhaust gase's.
as you can see oil in the crank case/sump would be an issue.
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My ride-VS commo, Just finishing the manual conversion. Working out those annoying bits!
Hmmm, will add to the flame war a little here but that is incorrect. GM or Detroit diesels ( whichever you would like to call them) 6v53, 6v72, 6v92 etc are a two stroke diesel and they have a sump full of mono grade engine oil. And yes, there absolutely no relevance between 2 & 4 stroke tuning.
Just making a reference that not all 2 strokes are dry.