Like whats involved besides just changing the oil and filter? and how hard is it to do? I'm quite mechanically minded and dont mind giving things a go.
Has anyone ever done their own before?
its funny u ask that, i just did work exper n all they got me to do was just drop the pan n change the gasket n refill with new oil i thought they did more then that
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I'd assume if you really wanted to, you could take everything apart and measure it to stock specs, but I say leave it to the experts for 'boxes.
I serviced mine with a bit of help from the old man - Cost about $50 for fluid and a filter kit.
All you need is some car ramps - drive the beast up onto them... Get out a tarp to lay on, put it under the car.. Also get like a huge plastic bowl/dish of some sort for when you drop the pan - AND PLENTY OF RAGs...
The fluid was sludgy, black and smelt rotten no joke.. It also had chunks and shavings of crap inside it..
Anyways, after I replaced the gasket and degreased the pan and put it all back together my car takes off sweeter, the gears stopped slipping - A problem the transmission place said "needed a whole new gearbox".
Last edited by KingDiamond; 24-10-2006 at 09:15 PM.
my vr auto slips at the end of each gear when you boot it
fine on take off, up hills, etc
can you tighten the bands
ive done it before on my old vl auto and worked ok
but dont know if you can do it on the vr auto
any help?
thanx
No band adjustments on a VR..
And on the post above if there were shavings and chunks in the pan you are going to need a whole new gearbox real soon.
I'm planning on servicing mine on monday with new fluid, filter and gasket and a cooler Sounds like a photo opportunity.
Illegitimi Non Carborundum
look adjusting bands is a non issue
in a hydro box, trymatic yes
your car a VN=hydro replacement of bands & cluch pack
is pretey strait forward for mech minded however any comtamination will fail the box imediatly
pay particulate attenion to radiator/oil cooler
parts inxs of $550. so get it right the firt time or pay in 30second's time
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ive got a oil cooler (tranny)
from an old vh v8 i had it should bolt straight up like in the vh
or better yet are their any kits or simple mods to fitting it
as my radiator friend said not to clip it to the radiator
as it can cut the cores over time with rubbing
he said to make a bracket up and hold it away from the radiator
Yeah same when my bro got his VN trans serviced. Just chucked it up on the hoist, remove the pan, change filters, refit pan, refill with tranny fluid, then start ya car up and go through the gears etc etc to get the fluid flowing through it, then check the fluid level again and top up if necessary....job done.
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If you want to actually change all of the fluid, just dropping the pan wont do.
The torque convertor holds litres of fluid, and contaminates the stuff you have just put in. Beware this uses a bit of fluid, but it guarantees a good service. Best bet for a home service- before dropping the pan, get to operating temp (although this makes it harder to work on cause it is rather warm) drop one of the tranny lines into a bucket, start the car and run at idle untill she dumps all of the fluid. Refill, dump. Can even repeat if the fluid is real bad looking, but not necessary. Then drop your pan, while your at it consider installing a bung into the pan for next time.
Do this, and the fluid will guaranteed last longer as it is not contaminated as much once it is started. You will use at least 10 litres of fluid, but it guarantees a good change, and she will last a lot longer.
sounds like it could be a good idea
does it hurt the box to run it without fluid
(not driving it, just idling in park)
does the oil come out with much force
planing to some trips over xmas and it needs a good service
might do it in the morning
thanx
1st the tips for doing this job:
1. Don't assume that you can successfully use a smaller engine oil change tray to catch all the fluid, even planning to tilt the tray doesnt work great.
2. Use a bigger tray, i used one of my wife's plastic storage containers that you see in K-Mart. (Mental note, clean container and put back before she finds out).
3. See note 2, use storage container without any holes or cracks in them DOH.
4. Have many rags handy.
Pictures:
1. Pan cleaned up and painted, Plug has been welded to pan for next time. When planning on doing this, trial fit the pan and mark where the plug will on. If you don't have the tools for this job be prepared to be raped over of it by local "tradesman" who'll make the job sound so technical and charge accordingly. (if only i was at dads garage)
2. The filter hole with seal still in it.
3. The filter hole with seal removed (need a sharp scribe to remove seal)
4. Picture of old seal, note the metal reinforcing in seal, this makes it hard to remove without a scribe.
5. How far the filter should hang down if properly installed. 50 mm
Illegitimi Non Carborundum
ok......just did a service on my vr auto![]()
drained about 6L out and the sump looked clean
no metal shavings or anything![]()
the oil looked bad (thin black and smelt bad)
swapped the filter and it looked clean(well not to bad)
the car still slips at the end of each gear when you stand on it and the kick down is slow , better than before, but i want better
the fluild level is right
do i just have to do another service to flush more crap oil out?
how many litres does it hold dry?
at work we have a auto trans flush kit... had this one commy that wouldn't get outta 2nd gear ran the machine flushed 10l of fluid through and man what a difference runs like a new box
I have found cylinder head repair shops to be most accomodating and reasonable with these little odd jobs as long as all they have to do is braze the fitting in... gave em the bits and they welded it in correctly for $10. I found obtaining a "spare" pan from the wreckers and getting the fitting in that one so its a straight swap when you do decide to dump the oil, easier if you only have one car...
mines doing the same thing againit done it a week after getting 3/4 rebuilt and it was a sticky throttle valve
dont know what they done to fix it but he charged me another $150 on top of the $1300 I'd already spent on the darn thing.
Does it kick back when you do it manually?
ok ill share another way to change all the fluid, probably cheaper and use less oil than filling and dumping fillgin dumping and fillign again. drop the oil thats in the pan, take off the supply line that goes to the radiator (or your cooler) let that drip untill it stops, put the pan back on and fill her up. with the cooler line still off, best to have 3 people for this part
person 1: start the car and stay there ready to turn it off
person 2: monitoring the fluid level and topping up accordingly
person 3: watching the oil come out the cooling line, when it starts to come out clea, (like the oil you just put in) yell at person one to turn her off, fill her to correct level and put it through the gears and away you go.
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However you do it is fine, just long as your fairly sure you have gotten out all of the old fluid