Your freedom ends where mine begins
What to Look for in car??
Ok guys...
My VX is almost gone, should be by the end of next week...
And i've spotted a 1972 Toyota FJ40 that im quite partial to...
It has a 302 Windsor engine in it and is running on straight gas.
Whats some things i should look at in relation so the gas setup??
Obviously im gonna inspect the engine for leaks, clanks, smoke, roughness etc but im not all that cluey when it comes to LPG stuff....
Also what else should i be looking at due to the cars age...
Im gonna look for rust obviously, make sure all the suspension is in good shape and not leaking.
Also if anyone knows of the top of their head what they cool at during a RWC inspection that would be great.
The bloke is not suppling a rwc with the car but claims it recently passed an inspection so i said i wanted to see that previous report.
Any info would be great.
Atm its hinging on my car actually going which is should.
The bloke has organised a racv inspection and said if it passes that he'll take it once i have the RWC done (2 days later).
Cheers!
The Kicking Horse
What'd you get for your car?
Your freedom ends where mine begins
18,000, now back onto the fj40 topic
the condition of the interior can be an indication if it was looked after.
Chuck Norris destroyed the periodic table, because he only recognizes the element of surprise
Your freedom ends where mine begins
I would be more concerned that there is no RWC and seeing it has had an engine transplant and now running a V8 it may need an engineers certificate.
You might find that a lot of roadworthy places may be a bit reluctant to give a RWC without seeing the engineers certificate. Ask the seller if it has ever been issued with an engineers certificate.
Your freedom ends where mine begins
THe guy said the car is already registered with the current engine...
Once a vehicle ahs been registered with the new engine once you don't been a engineer certificate...
Thats what i have been led to beleive
Drop A Patch....
I thought once a car has been engineered that it had to be plated with the current motor and engine number and what not???
Your freedom ends where mine begins
yeah... thats my assumption...
So you don't have to run around getting a engineer certificate each time the car swaps hands...
Stab it and Steer...
Engineers....
I have a coupe of mates with older style cars that have had engine transplants, and now, because of hassles with Mr Plod, they carry their Engineers Cirtificate in the glove box as it is on most occasions asked to be viewed...
But I'm talking blown XT sedans, 36 roadsters etc...
As for a 4x4 with a V8... Its not that rare, so I doubt you will be hassled, unless your cutting hoops in the Macca's carpark....
If I'm not pulling Toyota's out of the Bush, I'm pulling 12's in the Sig :-)
Your freedom ends where mine begins
Cool thanks mate....
Atm im gonna assume the bloke has engineered the thing considering its registered till august next year.
And when you get a engineer certificate done the car is plated for that...
So at vicroads or mr.plod should be able to look at the plates n send my on my way....
Do cut hoops in the maccas car park on 33's... :P
Your freedom ends where mine begins
Just learnt something interesting...
The guy is lessing the car with the registration....
Which i read up means that he HAS to provide a RWC with the car or he can't advertise or sell it with rego...
The requirement for an engineer's report on this type of conversion hasn't been around forever. If the car(?) has been registered with the current engine prior to the requirement for an engineer's report there won't be one and while the car remains registered one won't be required.
If the car doesn't have/need an engineer's certificate, I would be looking at the quality of the conversion too; engine mounts, wiring, adaptor plate to transmission etc.
Re. specific things to look for with the gas conversion: most of the gas system will be pretty simple, even replacing a convertor or mixer won't be more than a few hundred dollars at most. Use your nose for gas leaks, mechanical common sense for hose condition etc. It should start and drive like a car on petrol. The tank should be "in date". The date of the last inspection (+/or manufacture) will be stamped somewhere on the tank. The inspection is required every 10 years. If it doesn't pass, that could be expensive to replace.
Drop A Patch....
Most ppl sell there car with rego still, even without a rwc. Its not well legal as such, but you are required to get a rwc and change it into your name within 14 days.Originally Posted by Jesterarts
But being private sale, ppl some times trust ppl and they give them more time to arrange rwc and what not, i know it took me over a month to get a rwc for mine because of work and what not
Your freedom ends where mine begins
Yeah, i see....
I had a chat with him, neways he seems an alright bloke that either doesn't have much of a clue abour cars or is playing dumb...
I'm gonna go see the car sometime after the 1st and go over it with a fine tooth comb.
Check the engine and gearbox for leaks and clunks, check all the suspension, bushels, wiring, idicator, brake etc.
Being a 4wd also check the wheel hubs (the thing you turn to lock the wheel into 4wd) for leaks as apparently thats a common and expensive issue.
See if the windscreen is pretty fresh or sand blasted... i know rwc inspectors love sandblasted windscreens.
Im pretty keen on this lil beast, n my old man is all excited caus he loves the cars...
Is im gonna take a gamble if im still keen on it after i see it and probably get it.
If there is something to do, most i can manage myself, i took apart and restored about 1/4 back one of these when i was 16 before i ran out of money...lol
THanks for the info guys
how come your after this model cruiser
Chuck Norris destroyed the periodic table, because he only recognizes the element of surprise
Your freedom ends where mine begins
I've always been a fan of them...
And having never finished the project one i was building, this is like a cheat way to get there...
Plus the fact im not gonna be worried parking it in frankston and it will get dents and dings...
lol. youd be lucky to dint one of those with a hammer.
Chuck Norris destroyed the periodic table, because he only recognizes the element of surprise
Some things to check out!
When you check it out make sure you check the retest date on the tank compliance plate.... if it due soon it could cost you a lot of money.
Take it for a drive and find a dirt or grassy area, engage the front hubs and put it in low range & 4wd . turn the car on full lock and do as tight a circle as you possibly can at relatively low speed and listen for any noises etc from the front c-v joints, diff, transfer case etc. Do this turning in both directions!
When you are underneath it checking for leaks etc make sure you check the front drive shaft ( this goes from the transfer case which is on the side of the gearbox to the front diff) Check that the shaft is actually there and that the uni and slip joint are o.k and not worn etc. If the shaft is missing this could indicate a serious problem with the transfer case, diff or front hubs.
When you go to take it out of 4wd if it stays locked in dont panic.....this is quite common. Just drive the car in a straight line and slow to a stop. Put it in reverse and as you start to move backward put pressure on the 4wd lever to take it out as you move backwards. It should pop into neutral easily then. If this still does not work do the same thing in forward.
Check the oil level in both the gearbox and the transfer case as the seal between them go quite regularly and transfers oil from one to the other...... this causes one to lose oil and may cause a failure.
The 40's used to rust out behind the wheels, at the lower half of the doors and on the panel between the bonnet and the windscreen... have a good look. Allthough cheap fiberglass panels are available these days if you are going to be doing lotsa beach work in it.Also check the cab to chassis mounts are o.k as some used to rust out where they mount to the cab.
If the spare tyre hinges at the back check that it has not cracked out the mounts at the panel work from a hard life of vibrations etc.
Check if the brake booster looks right as some v8 conversions done removed the larger booster and fitted a much smaller one for the extra room to fit the donk in. So check the brakes work well etc.
I would definetly find out about the eng cert and rego requirements for your state.
In Qld you can not advertise a car for sale with rego unless you have a curent road worthy certificate. The fine here is something like $240 for doing so.
I hope some of this is of some use to you!
I hope it has aircon cause if it doesnt it is gunna be a shock for ya missus when she is in it and she will not enjoy slumming it!
Good luck dude!
Let us know how it goes!
P.S. If it is not too rude to ask what price range is it in???
Your freedom ends where mine begins
Ends up the thing is a 4spd AUTO with a b&m quickshifter...
So... im abit off put now...
Whats would the quickshifted mean in terms of driving.
Stab it and Steer...
Mate, the quickshifter is a good thing in relation to hard driving, coz if you decide to manually shift through the gears, no matter how hard you push the shifter towards the dash, it will only shift up one gear at a time, great on the drag strip, or in a muddy bog hole or hill climb!! Stop you from slamming the shifter all the way up to reverse/Park and trashing your trans... plus they look good, and the car will drive as a normal auto if you decide to select "D"
Believe me, that car is good from what i see, and the shifter and an auto with the 302 is much better than a manual for comfort and smooth driving when your having a lazy day....
If I'm not pulling Toyota's out of the Bush, I'm pulling 12's in the Sig :-)
Your freedom ends where mine begins
Yeah, im still gonna go down to see the thing this weekend...
Just im really not a fan of autos...
We'll see how it goes
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