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Thread: Bypass Oil Filtration

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    Default Bypass Oil Filtration

    Gday all

    Quick one- if you are serious about oil, lubricants, etc, then consider your filtration.

    Frantz filters been around forever. They do a great job at filtering down to 1 micron (and reports indicate, sub micron. How accurate they are I'm not entirely sure at this stage) This is achieved with excellent filtration ratios (filtration ratio = some particles trapped are smaller than expected, some larger particles are not trapped when expected. The filtration ratio is the ratio between the two.)

    Now I have only just come across another name. I believe its australian made, from what I read developed by an old fitter who decided to make his own, marketed by his business partner. Looks to be an Australian company.

    Jackmaster filters (Oil Filters That Reduce Engine Wear and Save You Dollars) appear on the surface to do similar to the same job as the frantz filters, and take the same size filter media (although they supply their own). For a fraction of the price.

    How does this affect you?

    Well, your spin on averages probably 25-40 micron filtration. Many damaging particles are smaller than this, because they are small enough to fit into the tiny spaces between bearing shells, for example. As this piece gets in, you can imagine the sort of wear it can cause as it grinds the bearing surfaces untill it fits.

    Oil wears out, no question. I am the biggest advocate of changing oil when it is actually worn. But that oil can last longer if water, soot, and other inorganic materials can be removed effectively. And it can do a better job. PM Lubricants for example, if monitoring shows 40 000k lifespan, bypass filtration will literally double the expected oil life.

    Bypass filtration is well, well proven. It is only a new concept in passenger petrol vehicles because we are, well, ignorant to facts I am sorry to say as there is no education on the matter apart from 'intellegent molecules'.

    Result- Longer lasting oil, less wear, longer lasting spin on filters, etc etc.

    PS you dont like the idea, dont bother posting to tell me about it or argueing. This is for people who care and would like to benefit.

    And no, I dont work for them.

    Brad

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    the problem with the basic setup of any engine oil fitration system is the bypass system which is there to protect the engine. during startup when the oil is cold, the oil has settled in the sump and most of the particle contamination that is in the oil has settled to the bottom of the sump (where the pick up just happens to be). on startup that cold thick oil won't pass through the filter very well, this creates a pressure inballance between the input side of the filter and output side of the filter. in this situation the majority of the oil will actually go through the bypass valve and not be filtered at all. the oil thats bypassing the filter at this point is also the oil that contains the most particle contamination from the bottom of the sump and this is the reason you get a lot of engine wear from cold starts.

    the simple fact is that the majorty of engines are under filtered when the oil is cold. the holden V6 being a prime example it has a tiny oil filter really. this is the reason i use the remote filter setup with a much larger filter to try and reduce this situation. (pics in my ride thread at bottom of post)

    another option is to use these System 1 Filters, About US, they use a stainless mesh screen and flow substancially more oil then standard disposable oil filters and therefore you don't have the cold start bypass situation and it's re-usable so no more throw away filters which is better for the enviroment as well.

    used in conjuction with these FilterMAG: Magnetic Oil Filters finish the Job Your Filter Started. and i think you would have a fairly efficient oil filtration system.
    Last edited by immortality; 13-02-2008 at 01:30 PM. Reason: add
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  3. #3
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    I think you are just slightly on the wrong track

    Bypass filtration- the original spin on filter stays in place, a portion of the oil bypasses the filter to a remote fitted filter, then back to the sump. Your talking about the overpressure bypass valve- remains unaltered with this system.

    The remote filter is a different idea, where the full flow filter is still the only active filter, just fitted remotely for whatever reason- whether to fit a larger, better filter or make changing easier as you have done

    This thread is about fitting an additional filter not handling all of the oil flow, just a percentage which is filtered more than the standard spin on

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    Quote Originally Posted by bradcad View Post
    I think you are just slightly on the wrong track

    Bypass filtration- the original spin on filter stays in place, a portion of the oil bypasses the filter to a remote fitted filter, then back to the sump. Your talking about the overpressure bypass valve- remains unaltered with this system.

    The remote filter is a different idea, where the full flow filter is still the only active filter, just fitted remotely for whatever reason- whether to fit a larger, better filter or make changing easier as you have done

    This thread is about fitting an additional filter not handling all of the oil flow, just a percentage which is filtered more than the standard spin on
    not on the wrong track really, first i have explained the short fall of the standard filtration system as fitted to the majority of cars today including your holden.

    i have then explained my setup to help reduce this this cold start bypass situation. (using the remote setup to fit a much larger filter)

    then i have given options to improve the filtration capability of the current system (the system 1 filter is a direct replacement spin on filter, not an additional filter and the filtermag attaches to the standard spin on filter also) as well as reduce/eliminate the cold startup bypass problem. this is an alternate solution to your "bypass filter setup" and doesn't change the basic setup that is currently on peoples cars. i have no doubt the "bypass filter" works at filtering finer particles from the oil, however it doesn't rectify the cold startup issue when the majority of wear occures in engines.

    i believe the "bypass filter" as you have suggested does help to remove more contamination then the standard filter alone ever could and in this manner reduce overall wear and tear from oil contamination.

    all i have done is offer a alternate setup with equipment that has been around for many a year and has been proven.

    i totally agree the standard setup is lacking in quality
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    OK sorry didnt mean to offend

    by the way the stainless filter is a nice idea. Just every time I have looked at it, I could only find them in the states, except bike filters seem to be everywhere

    The only thing I dont agree with is the cold startup- my information is that bearings and other metal surfaces are touching each other (after sitting for too long), or only with a very thin film of oil between (boundary lubrication offered by quality oils, but does not remain indefinantly). When startup occurs there is no or little oil pressure for a few seconds.

    I can see your point about contaminants missed by the filter, but I dont think its the whole story

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    they are avail at some of the automotive retailers in australia (VPW or rocket ind. maybe) the good thing about em is that once you have one you never need to buy another filter and throw the old ones out which you would still need to do with the bypass filter setup, infact would have 2 filters to replace. i'm sure there is more to the cold startup, but if you look at taxi's they do double if not triple the km's before the engine is stuffed and i guess the would do as many starts if not more but more so with hot oil.

    i have a system 1 filter for the V8, however i got it after i started to pull it apart so haven't actually used it yet. i wonder if i can use it with the V6? will need to check the threaded fittings i think

    no offence taken
    Last edited by immortality; 13-02-2008 at 04:53 PM. Reason: add
    Body by Holden, Soul by Brock
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    VN exec T5: 15.1sec @92.2mph 1/4 mile, 9.7sec @ 74.6mph 1/8mile, 2.3sec 60ft, 0-60mph 6.827sec 22/11/07 Gtech competition



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    Yes you have 2 filters to replace when using the bypass filter. I will try to find out what sort of service schedule when using a bypass filter- because the standard filter life would be extended also. Unless its a dirty engine, surely both would last out 20 000k's

    Taxis typically dont stop, and when they stop they dont get a chance to cool down. Components dont get a chance to retract, oil doesnt fully drop. The taxis I know pretty well only stop to refuel- they run on to heat or cool the car, even driver changes generally one driver goes and picks up the next driver, so no stop there. That's why their transmissions have such a hard life- continual running even when stopped for extended periods so heat builds up untill they are coasting again.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bradcad View Post
    Yes you have 2 filters to replace when using the bypass filter. I will try to find out what sort of service schedule when using a bypass filter- because the standard filter life would be extended also. Unless its a dirty engine, surely both would last out 20 000k's

    Taxis typically dont stop, and when they stop they dont get a chance to cool down. Components dont get a chance to retract, oil doesnt fully drop. The taxis I know pretty well only stop to refuel- they run on to heat or cool the car, even driver changes generally one driver goes and picks up the next driver, so no stop there. That's why their transmissions have such a hard life- continual running even when stopped for extended periods so heat builds up untill they are coasting again.
    i do have a solution for the cold start, no oil pressure problem. it's an oil accumulator. it's basically a pressurised cylinder that holds a reserve of oil(normally either 1.5qrt or 3qrts - american), while the engine is running and it's full, lets say it's pressurised for 40psi, if oil pressure drops below that at anytime the accumulator forces the oil into the engine at 40psi to try and maintain that pressure in the engine. what you do is fit a valve inline before the accumulator. close this valve before you shut the engine down and you have a reserve of oil at 40psi. open valve before you start the engine again and you can pressurise the oil system before the start to avoid wear and tear. this is racecar technology however, not cheap but good insurance on a 40k engine

    Moroso 23900 - Moroso Engine Oil Accumulators - summitracing.com

    i intend to get one for my V8 when i get it back on the road
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    I have seen those, and I have to say I am very interested. Very good idea. Different brand but same story.

    I suppose that poses the question- how many bolt on bits to you need to overcome OEM's poor engineering?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bradcad View Post
    I have seen those, and I have to say I am very interested. Very good idea. Different brand but same story.

    I suppose that poses the question- how many bolt on bits to you need to overcome OEM's poor engineering?
    it's probably overkill for a street driven car, but a racecar that has high cornering G's and possible oil surge in the pan resulting in tempory loss of oil pressure it's cheap insurance really. anyway, car manufacturers don't want their cars to last forever, they wouldn't make any money on spare parts or people upgrading to new models etc
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    Another top idea when it eventually filters down from commercial use (although they are on some BMW's stock, and the middle east use them in just aboout everything) is centrifugal filters. A filtering unit that actually spins oil and therefore the impurities out of it. Very effective, very efficient, almost foolproof.

    Speaking of the middle east, I am told that is the only filter sustem they have successfuly used, because of the sand everywhere, high silica content in the air, and poor maintenance procedures.

    Silica content in the air- I've only just learned that New Zealand has one of the worst. Silica being the worst wear producing agent affecting internal combustion engines. Any New Zealanders had experience with this?

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    can't say i have. but then i've never actaully had my oil tested. jsut change it with clean filters on a regular basis. i also use an engine flush everyother oil change so things are fairly clean in my engine i think.

    i think it would be worse if you live in one of the volcanic fields. aucklands not to bad, all dormant but rotorua wouldn't be that great and ruapehu erupts every couple of years lots of volcanic ash, that can't be good at all. when it does go it becomes a huge "no fly zone"
    Last edited by immortality; 16-02-2008 at 08:40 AM. Reason: add
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