hey guys, might be looking at a daily on the weekend. i know the usual wat to look for and what questions to ask, but just a thread to ask you guys wat you look for and what you ask when looking for another car...well post away, im sure there will be alot of help..
cheers troy
Vortech V1 supercharger : 10psi : Intercooled : 3.89 Mini-spool : VT Big Brake conversion : Shift kitted auto : B&M Shifter
My VS CLUBBY!
237.2RWKW - 318.1HP - 926.4 NM
Just the usual stuff troy.
*Check body, paint, rust etc.
*Check Km's
*Inspect all oils and fluids
*Drive the car, listen for any noises or anything
*Compare any problems with the price they are asking
*Ask about any work thats been done, maybe ask about reciepts if theres supposidly had big work done
*Check for oil leaks and what not
Blah blah blah
Bring a good quality trolley jack and have a good look under it. If there's a lot of oil + gunk, beware. If it's spotless, also beware.
Somewhere in between is good.
2 threads that might help.
Buying used car, what to look for?
Checking out Used cars, post your tips
I not sure whether to post here or in one of the two linked threads but this is current and the others can be accessed from here.
I will add:
Make sure the A/C works - expensive to fix if it doesn't.
Make sure the heater works and isn't leaking; check underneath - what is coming out of the A/C drain tubes? Likewise an expensive fix.
Cooling system in general - radiator side tank seals are a common leak point on Commodores. On cars with a brass radiator, the fins can corrode and crumble. Check by gently running a finger across the fins.
A low fluid level in a clutch or brake master is indicative of a leak or more likely worn clutch or brake pads - the brake pads are fairly minor but it's still $100 or so if both front and rear are needed.
Check the rear bumper around the exhaust; a car burning oil will leave a residue there.
Check any electrical accessories, central locking, power windows etc.
Lift the boot or tailgate seal - there can be rust underneath.
Body, body, body.
I reckon, if a car is straight and has no rust then that's 3/4 of your worries gone. Panel and rust work is expensive to repair.
Mechanical stuff is relatively simple to unbolt / bolt on if you have a repair manual and a good set of tools.
For me there is nothing worse than a car that leaks.
One tip I was given is that reo bars are not painted from factory, but if it has been in an accident, they are almost always painted
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PM me or email philthy@shoppingsecure.com.au for all your stereo needs
Oh yeah, and check it hasn't been stolen or has any finance payments pending.
When i was in year 11 we had a full day learning about driving and buying a car etc
They had a reallynice looking M3 and asked us to go and find faults with it to see how we'd go when buying a car.
At the end they told us some of the main things including:
Rego...
the car was actually welded in half (i noticed weld lines down the undercarriage)
lots of rust in engine bay
pretty funny really. but very helpful. rest assured i wont be buying 2 cars that have been welded together...
Check its got the original dash in it with original k's, hard to tell but if its an exec with level3 cluster, chances are its been changed. Assuming your bying a commodore that is. The only other thing i can add is if your buying private, ask loaded questions about its performance to assess if the guys have flogged it to death.
Troy, if ya going to look at it on sunday, il come along if ya want, just msg me.
dont worry, il start a ride thread soon.