Car need jump start with new battery!!!!!

[AttaBoy]

Hey guys..

I went out on fri night in the city, been driving around for a good hour and a half.

So I stopped the car went to the atm to get money and when I got back it won't start, just almost crank but not strong enough to turn the engine over. And it makes some clicking sound.

So I called the racv and he jump started the car and it works!!!

Then went home and it started just fine afterward.. No problems whatsoever.

The thing is the battery is new! Why wouldn't it crank??
What do you think it would have been??

It can't be alternator because I got no battery light and it seems fine afterwards...

Whats the go because nxt week I don't wanna experience the same thing in the middle if the city a 3.00 am lol...

[vicarious]

crank angle sensor?

[HSV472]

sounds like your starter motor might be dieing i had the same story and problem

[andyman]

is the battery terminals clean in the pole clamps?

[AttaBoy]

Yes the battery is terminal is clean because its been cleaned when the battery is been replaced not long ago. Can't be crank angle sensor because I believe it doesn't make clicking noise. But I don't know much so...

What about starter solenoid?? The seems really fine now nothing yet happened. I did a fault code check and it came up 12 more than 3 times. So no faults logged.

I'm really stumped why this happened in the most inconvenience time of the night and in the middle of the damn city?? Karma maybe LOL...

Plus this is the first time ever me being stranded in the 6 years of owning this car..... Still love my VS....

[vicarious]

how about dodgey battery in the key, possibly not turning off the immobiliser(if you have it?)

[jatsvl]

when I changed my battery I bought some of those coloured battery clamps red/black installed it all and every thing was back to normal about five weeks later stopped the car went to the shop came back turned the key and nothing not even the click sound from a flat battery I did all the usual checks and was stumped called the raa he did his checks and nothing then he noticed the fancy clamps took them off scrapped the inside of them replaced them and all was fine couldn't believe it after five weeks just like that.
I guess make sure your clamps are paint free and clean, and fitted tight.

[VrWagz1]

It will be the solinoid clicking in and out when it dies at the end. If you dont suspect your battery, then check you power circuit for the starter motor. Also the wire can corrode inside the lug on the battery terminal too, so give them all a squirt with wd40. Check the big red wire on the starter and check the main engine earth strap to the chasis, then check the little chasis to battery - wire. I found my main engine earth on my v8 pulled out of the lug a month back. Hope that helps

[AttaBoy]

Thanks will try what you guys suggested..

But I'm still stumped on why its working perfectly now.. I had no problems since Friday night!!!

I'm going out again this sat and it better not give up on me!! LOL..

They key has a new battery but even the car tries to crank so it cannot be security system related..

The battery is I thing a 460CCA.. A Century brand battery. Do I fill it with distilled water or normal tap water??

[vicarious]

Thanks will try what you guys suggested..

But I'm still stumped on why its working perfectly now.. I had no problems since Friday night!!!

I'm going out again this sat and it better not give up on me!! LOL..

They key has a new battery but even the car tries to crank so it cannot be security system related..

The battery is I thing a 460CCA.. A Century brand battery. Do I fill it with distilled water or normal tap water??

distilled water

[Holdfast]

Thanks will try what you guys suggested..

But I'm still stumped on why its working perfectly now.. I had no problems since Friday night!!!

I'm going out again this sat and it better not give up on me!! LOL..

The battery is I thing a 460CCA.. A Century brand battery

Mate this has already been covered by the guys above but I'd just like to make a comment about the battery terminal connections.

At one stage my VL commodore was having all sorts of problems, probably very similar to what you are experiencing.

I checked and double checked the tightness of the positive and negative leads to the battery; I checked the bolt that held the leads onto the battery terminals.

I found that there was a little bit of play / movement in the positive lead that slips over the battery terminal.

I got a copper one cent piece, bent it to the shape of the battery terminal and then refitted the positive lead and then re-tightened the bolt.

By doing this I've never had a problem with the electrics.

If the current from the battery looses continuity the signal to the Computer or Engine Combustion Control System (ECCS) can really stuff things up or make you think you have a major problem when what you have is a minor problem.

Perhaps it's best to diagnose the mishap by mentally noting any changes you've done to your car and then use that as your starting point.

Anyway, I'm no mechanic and the guys above have already given you good info so best of luck

[AttaBoy]

Does really cold weather weaken your battery?? My car is always outside and it frosts up during the night...

Maybe that also something to do with it??

[Rhino Racing]

Yes Super cold weather or hot conditions can be hell on a battery. Therefore you will notice it struggling more during cold mornings.
But i would suggest that it may be one of the following.
1.Remove and clean the battery posts and the terminals properly. New batteries that have been sitting on a shelf end up with a very light oxidisation on the battery posts, use a light sandpaper or proper battery post cleaner to make the post and the terminals all shiny and clean looking again. You can also use a small amount of heavy type grease/ vasoline etc to put over the top of the terminal when finished to help deter future oxidisation issues.... this is not entirely neccesary but can help.

2. Check that the wiring to your starter motor is not loose in any way. Double check all earth clamps for the starter and engine earth lead as well. If you have a multimeter, next time it does not start if you have 12-14volts at the starter motor main red cable and the small wire that runs to the solenoid then you have intermittent starter motor issues. (Yes they can play up irregularly like that at first but will happen more frequently as time goes on.)

3. Just because your battery is new do not assume it is fault free. (Maybe through poor manufacture it is ready to drop a cell already. It happens.) At work we have had brand new .

4.Start the car and run it up with the headlights on.... it should reach 13.5-14.7 Volts at the battery...... if not you have a charging issue. Have this checked out and repaired.
Double check that your serpentine belt is in good condition and that the tensioner is still applying good tension to the belt itself.
Good luck!

Sorry i just noticed that i had covered some things others had already.. did not read post properly.(DAM NIGHTSHIFT HEAD)

[AttaBoy]

Hey thanks, that was very helpful. If you can, what settings the multimeter need to be on to check the voltages. I just bought a cheap multimeter from an elect store but know nothing LOl..

Is is 24V I assume??

[BOGANV8]

needs to be on 12v dc to measure the charge rate and the resting voltage of the battery

[VrWagz1]

needs to be on 12v dc to measure the charge rate and the resting voltage of the battery

Dont do this you may hurt your meter, you will get 14volts and send it off scale. Usually it will have a 24 or 30 volt DC setting(or somthing around there), just use the closest setting you can without going under. If it has 2 lots of volt settings, its the one with the" :l " DC symbol (but rotated 90 degrees), not the AC settings with the " ~ " AC symbol.

[BOGANV8]

Dont do this you may hurt your meter, you will get 14volts and send it off scale. Usually it will have a 24 or 30 volt DC setting(or somthing around there), just use the closest setting you can without going under. If it has 2 lots of volt settings, its the one with the" :l " DC symbol (but rotated 90 degrees), not the AC settings with the " ~ " AC symbol.

Der sorry i had brain fade i ment DC reading not ohms or anything else.. the one i use is 20v DC.... also epens if you get digi one then it will just read it funny