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Backyard Spray Job on VN commodore (Black) need info
- Thread starter Bz Kn33z
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ari666
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PM replied to.
the prices do seem a touch high. not too bad, but i think you can do better.
also i dont know wtf he is on about 'not needing thinner in primer' itll be ok of you dont mind spraying clay onto your car. but to save yourself heaps of time blocking back hi-fill, thin it right down with about 40% thinner then you can use a regular 1.4mm gun to spray it with. it wont come out as thick, so you will use more primer and will take more coats to get full coverage, but the primer will land flatter and dry faster, which means less time to wait b4 blocking and less time sanding to get flat.
spraying hi-fill with no thinner will literally be like throwing balls of clay at your car. itll be so lumpy and horrible, i dont even wanna think about it.
the prices do seem a touch high. not too bad, but i think you can do better.
also i dont know wtf he is on about 'not needing thinner in primer' itll be ok of you dont mind spraying clay onto your car. but to save yourself heaps of time blocking back hi-fill, thin it right down with about 40% thinner then you can use a regular 1.4mm gun to spray it with. it wont come out as thick, so you will use more primer and will take more coats to get full coverage, but the primer will land flatter and dry faster, which means less time to wait b4 blocking and less time sanding to get flat.
spraying hi-fill with no thinner will literally be like throwing balls of clay at your car. itll be so lumpy and horrible, i dont even wanna think about it.
Bz Kn33z
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OK i got another Quote.
4lt 2k Black (std)
2.5lt Hardener
5lt 2k Reducer Total $285
Primer (Grey) 4lt $68.10
Primer (Black)4lt $97.14
4lt Acrylic Thinner to suit $26.85
That is a Grand total of $408.99 That is with the Black primer he said the black primer would be better and make the colour deeper.
Is the 4lt acrylic thinners OK with my 2k? i wasn't to sure on that, But what do people think of that price and what i have listed.
4lt 2k Black (std)
2.5lt Hardener
5lt 2k Reducer Total $285
Primer (Grey) 4lt $68.10
Primer (Black)4lt $97.14
4lt Acrylic Thinner to suit $26.85
That is a Grand total of $408.99 That is with the Black primer he said the black primer would be better and make the colour deeper.
Is the 4lt acrylic thinners OK with my 2k? i wasn't to sure on that, But what do people think of that price and what i have listed.
ari666
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hmmmm, dunno if i would use acrylic primer. in fact there is no way i would. i dont have any expierence to back up my claims, so i am just guessing its a bad idea.
also i would use the grey/white/red primer personally. itll mean if you are too thin for the 1st coat you will see the grey through the paint.
also i would use the grey/white/red primer personally. itll mean if you are too thin for the 1st coat you will see the grey through the paint.
Bz Kn33z
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Ok guys i know its been a long time and proberbly forgotten but i am starting the prep work on the engine bay so i can put the motor back in.
As you can see from the picture the paint is shocking and most of the black came off with the gernie, how should i go about prepping the engine bay with the condition its in atm.
I also have a picture of the Spray gun its a Mechpro (cheapy) 1.4 hvlp hopefully it will do the job. I also have another Cheap gun that has a 2.0 needle for the primer hopefully the 2.0 isnt to big whats peoples thoughts on it?
The paint is staying the same 2k Black.
As you can see from the picture the paint is shocking and most of the black came off with the gernie, how should i go about prepping the engine bay with the condition its in atm.
I also have a picture of the Spray gun its a Mechpro (cheapy) 1.4 hvlp hopefully it will do the job. I also have another Cheap gun that has a 2.0 needle for the primer hopefully the 2.0 isnt to big whats peoples thoughts on it?
The paint is staying the same 2k Black.
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ari666
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ok so i got a beer, and a pie and my own car is pissing me off so much im ready to take a can of petrol to it and a match, so ill have a go at answering this.
that gun is fine, id even say its great. you can use the 2mm for hi-fill if you want, but ive found it just means more blocking back between coats, so ive been using my 1.4mm for everything. to get hi-fill to flow through you just add more reducer till it comes out nice and clean on a test patch. i would rather build 12 layers of hi-fill than sand for 2.5 hours, but thats just me. others may disagree.
now: the interesting part.
i have NFI what youve done to make the paint that ****, but that is ****. delaminating like that just says to me **** prep or **** paint. id be leaning more towards **** prep. it is possible to make paint stick to the layer underneath if you scuff the surface up thoroughly enough, but yours looks like you may have just cleaned it and hit it? i dunno. here is the sad news.... its gonne be a LOT more work this time around.
so now your goal is to remove EVERYTHING!! that includes:
the steering rack
brake booster and MC
struts
brake lines
AC and heater hoses
compliance plates
wires
etc etc etc.
the whole bay needs to be buzzed back with 120ish. the black will have to get gone completely or itll fry up later. any paint thats left will need to be stabilised, so scuff it up with 40 to flake off the loose ****, then rub it properley with 120, then each night or whenever you take a break, cover it with a thin layer of hi-fill. the first coat or 2 of hifill will let you know if its gonna fry. if it fries, sadly you need to just keep sanding.
as the hours roll on and the hi-fill goes on thicker and thicker youll start to see the fruits of your labour. if you cut corners in the first stages of prep you will be very very very very very very very very very very sorry later on. so take your time. if your instincts tell you you need to sand more, but your "other" brain wants to go chasing tail and drinking beer, listen to your instinct and keep fkn sanding.
once its covered in a full decent amount of hi fill, the hi-fill hasnt fried up ANYWHERE and everything has settled, sealed and dried completely, splatter on some guide coat and prepare for the worst 6-12 hours of your life blocking that **** back. again, its not really something you can skip if you wanna be happy later.
so blocking is a case of a bucket of warm water, 400 grit, good tunes and determination. also prepare to lose the pads off your fingers to the degree when you pick up a hot cup of coffee itll burn your fingertips like satans hot piss. you use a sanding block i.e. flat piece of sponge, and sand till all your guide coat has gone. sometimes takes hours. sometimes days.
now, the bitchiest thing is this:
youve just sanded your car using water... so if you rubbed through the primer to metal, something needs to be done about that, cos not only have you just exposed steel, youve also rubbed water on it... so you will need to add a layer of primer at the very least, or, if youre feeling like superman... spray it. either way, the layer of hi-fill that youre about to use needs to be as this as your piss after a full slab of beer. it needs to flow so cleanly it shines, otherwise youll just need to block back again.
what i normally do by this stage is give up all hope of a show car and hit it wet-on-wet. so day whatever would be to get up at stupid o'clock and start sanding. keep sanding till about 6pm, by then itll be "good enough" as in "if i have to sand one more time, many many people near me will die" then hit it with primer, wait till flash off (usually 20 or so mins depending on how fast all the corners dry) then hit it with colour and keep hitting it till ive run out of paint.
obviously there is prepsol between the sanding abd the painting.
hope that helps. im tired, and i hate my car
that gun is fine, id even say its great. you can use the 2mm for hi-fill if you want, but ive found it just means more blocking back between coats, so ive been using my 1.4mm for everything. to get hi-fill to flow through you just add more reducer till it comes out nice and clean on a test patch. i would rather build 12 layers of hi-fill than sand for 2.5 hours, but thats just me. others may disagree.
now: the interesting part.
i have NFI what youve done to make the paint that ****, but that is ****. delaminating like that just says to me **** prep or **** paint. id be leaning more towards **** prep. it is possible to make paint stick to the layer underneath if you scuff the surface up thoroughly enough, but yours looks like you may have just cleaned it and hit it? i dunno. here is the sad news.... its gonne be a LOT more work this time around.
so now your goal is to remove EVERYTHING!! that includes:
the steering rack
brake booster and MC
struts
brake lines
AC and heater hoses
compliance plates
wires
etc etc etc.
the whole bay needs to be buzzed back with 120ish. the black will have to get gone completely or itll fry up later. any paint thats left will need to be stabilised, so scuff it up with 40 to flake off the loose ****, then rub it properley with 120, then each night or whenever you take a break, cover it with a thin layer of hi-fill. the first coat or 2 of hifill will let you know if its gonna fry. if it fries, sadly you need to just keep sanding.
as the hours roll on and the hi-fill goes on thicker and thicker youll start to see the fruits of your labour. if you cut corners in the first stages of prep you will be very very very very very very very very very very sorry later on. so take your time. if your instincts tell you you need to sand more, but your "other" brain wants to go chasing tail and drinking beer, listen to your instinct and keep fkn sanding.
once its covered in a full decent amount of hi fill, the hi-fill hasnt fried up ANYWHERE and everything has settled, sealed and dried completely, splatter on some guide coat and prepare for the worst 6-12 hours of your life blocking that **** back. again, its not really something you can skip if you wanna be happy later.
so blocking is a case of a bucket of warm water, 400 grit, good tunes and determination. also prepare to lose the pads off your fingers to the degree when you pick up a hot cup of coffee itll burn your fingertips like satans hot piss. you use a sanding block i.e. flat piece of sponge, and sand till all your guide coat has gone. sometimes takes hours. sometimes days.
now, the bitchiest thing is this:
youve just sanded your car using water... so if you rubbed through the primer to metal, something needs to be done about that, cos not only have you just exposed steel, youve also rubbed water on it... so you will need to add a layer of primer at the very least, or, if youre feeling like superman... spray it. either way, the layer of hi-fill that youre about to use needs to be as this as your piss after a full slab of beer. it needs to flow so cleanly it shines, otherwise youll just need to block back again.
what i normally do by this stage is give up all hope of a show car and hit it wet-on-wet. so day whatever would be to get up at stupid o'clock and start sanding. keep sanding till about 6pm, by then itll be "good enough" as in "if i have to sand one more time, many many people near me will die" then hit it with primer, wait till flash off (usually 20 or so mins depending on how fast all the corners dry) then hit it with colour and keep hitting it till ive run out of paint.
obviously there is prepsol between the sanding abd the painting.
hope that helps. im tired, and i hate my car
Bz Kn33z
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Thanx for the advice it will help out alot. The paint was a quick spray can job years back haha.
No doubt the engine bay is probably the hardest thing on the car to paint. I also have some holes that have been welded up but i need to grind back the metal some more so its flat how would i get the metal flat and not noticeable with the welds?
So all i need is 2k Primer/hardner thin it down i think you said around 40% thinners to get it to flow good out of the 1.4.
I also need a regulator on the gun or air compressor and a water trap do you suggest any types that work well? or for the water traps just an inline one on the hose before the spray gun?
Thanx again for the reply much appreciated
No doubt the engine bay is probably the hardest thing on the car to paint. I also have some holes that have been welded up but i need to grind back the metal some more so its flat how would i get the metal flat and not noticeable with the welds?
So all i need is 2k Primer/hardner thin it down i think you said around 40% thinners to get it to flow good out of the 1.4.
I also need a regulator on the gun or air compressor and a water trap do you suggest any types that work well? or for the water traps just an inline one on the hose before the spray gun?
Thanx again for the reply much appreciated