304 355 rebuild. Virgin bore.

[seq4x4]

Hey guys just started tearing down the 304 for the new car. Turns out its a virgin bore, because i bought it from the boganist people iv ever meet (dead set the women that came out acted and sounded like one of the characters from houseos) i decided a full rebuild it was.

The ute will just be a weekend thing (ride the putty to work) to cruise around in, but have some power too.

So heres the question i would like to ask:
I have found 2 kits. Both not balanced, both pretty cheap.

This one is for for 30thou over:
355 Holden Stroker KIT Cast Crank Scat | eBay

This on is for STD(it says 308, but have been told 308/304 gear are interchangeable):
Holden 308 V8 355CI Street Stroker KIT W Scat Crank Rods 12cc Dish Pistons | eBay

I measured the bore and its roughly 101.55 to 101.59. So what are your suggestions?

Other plans for the motor:
A nice lumpy cam, block dipped, checked, hone, ARP kits.

The maybes:
Head work, twin tb manifold, oil mods

 

[Deuce]

Are you building yourself or getting a shop to build?
If your getting a shop to build it ask them if they would prefer to purchase a kit from their supplier, it may work out the same price but atleast all your warranty is in one place, instead of 2 people blaming each other. If anything goes wrong of course.

Scat is a quality name, that first auction does not supply much details about what you are buying though. I would prefer the second auction, as they give you options with bore size, compression etc.

cc your heads too, as you may not have 58cc chambers, you may have 60cc or more which equals less comp.
Flat tops with 5cc relief sounds good to me, but it ultimately depends on your "total package" of your build.
I would aim for compression between 9.5 and 10.5 somewhere. (general rule is bigger comp = use bigger cam duration)

Head work = yes, a good valve job is a must.
manifold = maybe, depends on "total package" really
oil = yes, win/win here

Just my opinion, hope it helps.

 

[seq4x4]

Are you building yourself or getting a shop to build?
If your getting a shop to build it ask them if they would prefer to purchase a kit from their supplier, it may work out the same price but atleast all your warranty is in one place, instead of 2 people blaming each other. If anything goes wrong of course.

Scat is a quality name, that first auction does not supply much details about what you are buying though. I would prefer the second auction, as they give you options with bore size, compression etc.

cc your heads too, as you may not have 58cc chambers, you may have 60cc or more which equals less comp.
Flat tops with 5cc relief sounds good to me, but it ultimately depends on your "total package" of your build.
I would aim for compression between 9.5 and 10.5 somewhere. (general rule is bigger comp = use bigger cam duration)

Head work = yes, a good valve job is a must.
manifold = maybe, depends on "total package" really
oil = yes, win/win here

Just my opinion, hope it helps.

Ill be doing as much work as possible myself. I dont have a budget in the way of a figure, but i want to spend as little as possible as i want the car on the road soon. However, iv decided on 30thous so its a 355 not a 350. So the block will go in with the stroker kit, cam, and all the other bottom end bits to get balanced and possible built. But if they can balance it and put the cam bearings in, ill put it together myself.
By head work i ment port, polish and maybe a shave. A rebuild of the heads is a definite at the very least.
As for the oil, im still trying to work out what to do there, but with the block being stripped i can put a image to the text.

Cheers.

 

[Immortality]

If it's a virgin bore, consider trying to find a kit with .020 over pistons. The less you need to bore the better it is for the block. Thicker bores means less bore flex which means better piston ring to bore seal etc.

Being a 304 (assuming VN heads) the head chamber volume is about 62-63cc standard.

Check NAAF's 355 build thread for oiling mods advice or jump on AV8 and check TK383 oiling mods threads for good info.

 

[Deuce]

By head work i ment port, polish and maybe a shave. A rebuild of the heads is a definite at the very least.
Cheers.

Only shave the heads enough to keep them flat, use different pistons to adjust your compression not head shaving.
I agree with Immortality go as little oversize in pistons as you need to. Bigger isn't always better.

 

[mr j-man]

Look at precision international. They are really good, I got scat crank, scat h beams, cp forged pistons, clevite bearings, arp main studs, timing chain kit, balancer, oil pump and arp head studs for just under 2K.

 

[delcowizzid]

i leave the h-beams to the huge HP builds or something you want to rev hard.i beams are plenty enough.h-beams create more windage and drag than an i-beam

 

[Not_An_Abba_Fan]

I'm building a 355 as we speak, look on AV8 for the oil pump prep guide, that's what I followed.

We got the SCAT gear off Ebay, good stuff. Paid just over $2K for the kit, cam, springs, lifters, push rods and retainers. Got the timing chain kit as well. Had a HE oil pan welded up. Depending on the model of the 304, it may or may not have the bores clearanced for the stroker. My thread has pics of how much I had to take out. Once you see the block, you will see where they need to be done. The relief is already there, just needs to be more for the rod bolts on the stroker to clear.

 

[Deuce]

I'm building a 355 as we speak, look on AV8 for the oil pump prep guide, that's what I followed.

We got the SCAT gear off Ebay, good stuff. Paid just over $2K for the kit, cam, springs, lifters, push rods and retainers. Got the timing chain kit as well. Had a HE oil pan welded up. Depending on the model of the 304, it may or may not have the bores clearanced for the stroker. My thread has pics of how much I had to take out. Once you see the block, you will see where they need to be done. The relief is already there, just needs to be more for the rod bolts on the stroker to clear.

I think it was supposed to be 1995 onwards blocks that are factory clearanced for stroker cranks. Probably doesn't count for using H-beams though.

And I also followed the same AV8 oil pump thread by TK, I haven't fired mine up yet though. I did find that Genuine gaskets had better dimensions than the aftermarket ones though. (better hole placement and less trimming)

 

[HSV08]

I think it was supposed to be 1995 onwards blocks that are factory clearanced for stroker cranks. Probably doesn't count for using H-beams though.

And I also followed the same AV8 oil pump thread by TK, I haven't fired mine up yet though. I did find that Genuine gaskets had better dimensions than the aftermarket ones though. (better hole placement and less trimming)

It's only the vs3 at vt that are factory clearanced for the stroker. The roller motors.
The early had notches below the bore as naaf said and need to be attacked slightly. with h beams on the factory stroker block some do and some don't need a little nick to clear. Should have atleast 60 thou clearance as a safety.

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