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problem after replacing the inlet manifold gasket

mysst

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How did you manage to torque the lower manifold in place without separating the upper manifold and injectors away from the lower part? The O rings on the injectors are on the bottom of the injector where they slip into the lower manifold as well as on the top where they go into the fuel rail. A smear of rubber grease is a must so they don't bind and tear the O rings.

I would not smear the intake gasket with sealer, as suggested it should not be needed. I do however, put a light smear of rubber grease on the mateing surface of the manifold to help it slide cleanly over the gasket into position, don't know if it helps, but have done 4 so far and no leaks :) Also I do run the torque wrench over the bolts a second time, it's surprising that they still pull down that bit more. I also use "aviation" non hardening sealant on the bolts to seal the threads, seems to work well.

There is the vapour line that runs from the bottom of the throttle body and goes through the valley area, then plugs into the valve at the rear of the drivers side head, has that line been installed correctly?

Hope you find the issue without having to rip her apart

well I used the u joint sockets
I haven't face any problem with the injectors O ring before
I did torque the bolts with sealant loctite 242 but for only one time
I doubt 16 NM is enough to tighten the bolts
could that be the problem ??
also I checked the hoses and lines for a second time and all in their places like before
it looks like I have to take it out again
 

_R_J_K_

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all I know is that the air is coming out from the right side.
the sound of the engine won't let me to specify the exact spot

If you trace it with an aerosol you should be able to find exactly where it is.
 

moneypit

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I would suggest that it would be very difficult to get a decent torque reading useing U joint sockets. I normaly do them to 20nm, only a little tighter, still not tight, but way easier to set the torque wrench was realy the reason for that.
 

Vt v6

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50 bucks to machine or so if warped its not a head you gotta be sure though before you do it make sure it is air coming from were it us jam a hose in ur ear and listen with other end
 

graham7773

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plus 2 for the vacuum hose. You do know that S.Y.B. is highly explosive? W.D. 40 is probably a little safer but I have seen my psychotic grandson using it with a gas lighter as a flame thrower.
What progress have you made with the original problem? I ask because my VT project is dragging and I have had a very thick (5mm) aluminium plate gasket installed. the reason it is going slowly is that there is no power to the car with the ignition turned on. I have a fully charged 520 amp c.c.r. and a 655 ccr battery hooked up (individually) for no result. I will be under the car looking for obvious problems over the next couple of days. I'm glad I had no plans to drive anywhere during the silly season.
 

moneypit

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Well they havn't been in there for long. If you think they pass inspection for no dammage, especialy to the rubbery sealing surface I can't see a reason not to. I would reuse but only if they looked 100% good

Refer my earlier comment about useing a smear of rubber grease to prevent dammage to neoprene/rubber seals.
 

Immortality

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They should be fine to re-use, especially as they are new unless you have damaged them somehow.

These alloy gaskets are actually what GM started to use as the standard gaskets in the last of the V6 engines, we just never saw them in the Commodores.

I've tried doing a LIM like you with a uni-joint but found I couldn't get an accurate torque setting, it might take a little longer to lift the plenum/injector rail but it give a better result.

16nm is fine, the plastic/alloy gaskets are fairly soft. You need to use some sort of thread locker or sealant on the bolts to stop them coming loose with time.
 
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