VN-VP-VR SC14 How To

[needwork2-4fillhabbit]

I've had a look through my SC14 installation photos and thought i should start my write up now so i can clean out the folder and update this thread as i finish the last things off.

Warning: Page will take a while to load all thumbnails!



Parts that might be needed:

Toyota SC14 Supercharger
Pulley to fit (size as required, i used a 77mm)
Brackets to mount SC14 to engine
2 Bar map sensor
Intercooler
Intercooler piping (i used 3" throughout)
3 Longer spark plug leads (I got the longest leads available at supercheap)
Various Silicon joiners to suit piping size (And T-bolt clamps)
Blowoff valves (i used 1 atmospheric and one plumback)
Fuel Injectors (to suit pulley psi)
Modified memcal chip to suit psi output
Psi gauge (i used 15psi)
Extra idle wheel (try to get the type that has edges)
Pod Filter (If blower is before throttlebody)
Mini pod filter (For rocker cover breather)
Valium and a stocked fridge
12-13mm Bung (Cap off the rocker cover breather under the throttlebody)
Variety of bolts and nuts 8mm 10mm sizes and washers spring and flats
Gasket Card (heat resistant)
Electrical wire to suit coil wires

Extra Precaution parts:

Swirl Pot/Surge Tank
Fuel Pump (standard v8 pump)
Rising Rate fuel regulator

Tools that you will need (or bush mechanic it!)

Drill and assortment of bits
Holesaw bits for your drill
Angle Grinder (Grinding discs and cut off discs)
10mm Tap and Die kit
General assortment of spanners
Assorted ratchet and heads
Screwdrivers


First up removing the old stock SC14 pulley:



Remove the 3 screws on the front of the pulley.



Remove the face plate cap.



Undue the securing nut.







Using circlip pliers or two screwdrivers remove the circlip that holds the inner pulley to the bearing shaft.



Lift off the old electric clutch pulley to reveal the magnet.





Remove the circlip that holds the magnet onto the bearing shaft.



Lift off the magnet leaving you ready to put on the new pulley.



The pulley i bought from pulleybros.com.au had a tight spot when it was pushed onto the bearing shaft. So i had to file the top edge of the bearing shaft slightly. Also note if you buy one of these pulleys as per their instructions you need to file back a pin on the bearing shaft. (marked in picture)





(Now the face plate you removed earlier needs to be modified to fit if you have the same pulley type i am using.)
The spindle part of the pulley is steel surrounded by rubber, you need to cut the steel away from the rubber or pressure the steel spindle out of the rubber or even burn the rubber off.
Sorry i dont have photo's of this as i didnt do it on mine, it was pre removed.

But here it is after its removed and most rubber cut off:





Now that the plate is down to size you can throw it on the bearing guide and make sure it only runs on the bearing.



If it doesnt rub you can put on the plate and make sure the spline is lined up with the bolt holes then tighten the gold nut back onto the shaft to lock the pulley on.





Once you have the nut done up put on the face plate and do the bolts up.







Easy parts done!!

Brackets and Mounting!!





We will start off with the coil holder/alternator bracket modifications:

The coil Bracket needs to be modified to hold a pulley wheel. Heres a pic showing where i cut. The red lines show what is removed. Take note of the following photo though as it shows what needs to be left.





On the bit you will have to cut off make sure you dont destroy the bolt guide on the right discarded under part, as you cut that knob off at the join and use it as a spacer. As below.



Tap a 10mm thread through the centre bolt guide!



The bolt guide once removed will need to be turned on a lathe or cut accurately on a drop saw at the previous join so that it is dead flat and square! Once its flat you will need to tap the inside with a 10mm thread. NOTE! If you have access to a lathe when you get this turned you can also turn out a spacer to fit inside the idler wheel, the spacer need to sit firmly inside the bearing and needs to be able to fit a 10mm bolt through it.





Now that you have it all cut to the required shape and tapped, insert a 10mm bolt through the idler wheel into the spacer through the old bracket holder and if you bought a long enough bolt you can also drill and tap the engine block previous hole to the required length (Mine was 15mm).






Alternator Bracket:
NOTE! Its easier to leave this task to last, so you can mount the charger and pipe work then know where to weld it onto the pipes.

Remove the bolt on the right hand side of the alternator (goes through into the black mount below). Then remove the two bolts holding the black bracket in place.







This bracket is pretty straight forward so no need for explanations.





Mounts for the blower!

The fun begins with the two engine mounted brackets:

We will start with the exhaust manifold bracket. Its very simple undo the nuts each side of the closest spark plug remove whatever was there originally (from memory a lead holder). Then slip on the bracket and tighten.



Since the coil bracket holder is still off we can put the triangular bracket on. It goes on the engine block using one of the holes from the original coil bracket holder and another hole directly behind the radiator hose. The bolt that goes in behind the radiator hose is a pain in the ar$e, you need to pull the hose forward and up a bit to access the hole. Don't tighten this bracket yet!!







Now we can put the modified coil bracket holder on, just reverse how you took it off...




Blower Pre Set Up!

Need to get rid of those dodgy top mounts, Just whip out the angle grinder and lop em off...



Blower pipes:



Theres no really easy way to do these. I cut the original intake outlet pipes at the manifolds. Then bought a 1 metre length of 5mm thick walled aluminium tubing off ebay. I drew up a few ideas going by other peoples pipes and went for a simple to weld setup.





I left as much meat as possible on the manifold bases being careful i could still access the blowers bolts. I used 3 inch intercooler piping all the way through from these manifolds to the throttlebody.



I had a friend of a mate weld the manifolds to the aluminium tubing.



Last thing to do after you have made the new piping is to get some gasket card and mark out the manifold patterns.







The other brackets can be made or bought pretty easily. PM me if you need a set made.

[Pub24/7]

The pic are small for me (thumbnail size) is there a way for them to be larger? Otherwise seems good work so far......

[needwork2-4fillhabbit]

You should be able to click the thumb and it will lead to imageshack to show the enlarged pic. Oh and feel free to add anything, and ill edit the post.

[vn calais manual]

ace, that is all. ill be keeping a close eye on this

[JD]

Originally Posted by needwork2-4fillhabbit

[i]
Parts that might be needed:

Toyota SC14 Supercharger

had to laugh at that, it just MIGHT be needed

[needwork2-4fillhabbit]

Mounting the blower!
You will need a 10mm strengthened long bolt to go through the blower mounts and your brackets. Also you will need a bit of strong tube that will fit over the bolt, it will be a spacer that needs to be cut to length to fit between the back bracket and the front mount on the blower. This spacer stops forward and back movement of the blower.



The blower bottom goes on the two mounts you just attached to the engine *hope you left the triangular one loose!*
The front mount on the blower goes forward of the front bracket on the engine.



Now slip the bolt through from the back of the blower through the brackets and spacer. I used a flat then spring washer on the head end of the bolt then another spring and flat at the nut end. As you tighten the nut on the bolt you will see there may be some slack you need to pick up using washers.. Now tighten the triangular bracket.




Intercooling Time

Remove your front bumper. On the VP i only had to remove one screw from each tyre well and 5 bolts from the reo to bumper.



You probably have an idea of what size piping you will be using by now. As i have said earlier i used 3 inch.



Easiest way is mount your intercooler then work the pipes from either way to meet. I used a angled piece of aluminium to hold my intercooler till i get bar mount made.



Piece out your bends and straights the best you can and cut once you've found the best route. Tape your pipes together as you go to give you a good guide.



I taped and marked my pipes once i knew they would fit so i could hand them over to be welded.



Mark out and cut where you want your blow off valve/s to go especially if you need to get the bov mount welded on.



I used one atmo bov near the throttlebody and a seated plumback bov near the blower. This bov needs the hole cut the same size as the bottom of the bov inlet then carefully filed to be just a little bigger so the rubber gromit will fit snuggly to the bov and be air tight.



Put it all on once made. A few tips: On the intercooler make sure the t-bolts face downwards for easier access once the bumper is put back on. Make sure you tighten the clamps tight!! As you dont want them blowing off.... Makes a big bang ehehe.






Final Steps!

Fuel Injectors:

Start by depressurizing the fuel lines. To do this take the lid off the fuse box in your engine bay and remove the fuel pump relay fuse. Then start your car and run till it stalls, once its stalled keep cranking the engine over for 10-15 seconds to get remaining trickles of fuel out of the lines.



Next undo the fuel lines at the start of the rail. Unclip the VAC lines from around the fuel rail and loosen off the bolts at the front of the injector rail holders.



Undo the bolts ontop of the rails making sure you dont drop the extra little VAC line holders. You can now unclip the injector wires, to do this just grab a largish flat head screwdriver and slip it inside the silver clip and gentle lever outwards. CAUTION: These clips can fly off pretty easily so hold them as you lever with the screwdriver.





Now since you have loosened off the fuel rail holders you can raise and wobble the fuel rail upwards, it takes a bit of wiggling, circular motion and moderate force to get the injectors to pop loose from the bottom injector seats. CAUTION: To much force will pull the o'rings off the bottom of the injectors and they may fall in!



Once the injectors are free you can angle the rail holder so you can see the clips holding the top of the injectors, these clips undo by pulling out from behind (Shouldnt take much force). Now slowly wriggle the injector in a circular motion again and apply moderate downward pressure to get it to pop off the rail. A small amount of petrol will dribble out once its free.

Grab your new injectors and apply some of the lubricant to the o'rings top and bottom to assist installing.



For installation reverse the removal proceedure, Making sure u wriggle the injectors in, dont wanna push them o'rings off.




Rocker cover breather:

(Ehehe i forgot about this hose after meticulously doing the rest, end result was boost pressure blowing out the rocker gasket...)

Most setups (including the person who has helped me the most Stocky) based around CRS designs use a breather hose connected from the rocker breather to the blowers intake piping to breath.1st Picture below is a photo of stockys set up, it shows the hose in red.



After a bit of a msn chat to 'vn calais manual' he switched me onto a mini type airfilter, at first i thought of a lawnmower airfilter, but whilst buying some rubber tubing at supercheap i saw this mini pod filter that looked perfect for the job.



It needs a barb joiner (no pic) to fit inside the rocker hose and to the rubber bottom grommit of the mini pod, bunnings had one for 90cents or something. Next at supercheap i also picked up a rubber bung to cap off the old breather on the throttlebody.



Clamp the newly connected hoses and the barb attachment.




2 Bar map sensor:

This is located at the back of your engine bay. Undo the screws at either end lift off and unclip the wires and the hose connected to the back. I tapped into the VAC line that connects to the Bar sensor for the BOV negative effect VAC line. Connect your two bar up and screw it back down.




VAC Lines:

Zip tie all of the VAC lines to stop the soon to be boosted pressure lines from blowing off make sure you either clamp or zip tie along the VAC lines at joins.. example: charcoal cannister, throttlebody and everywhere else where theres joins...

[Pub24/7]

Good work mate. You've done it the way i would have instead of spending 2000 on a kit make your own and itll be cheaper

[needwork2-4fillhabbit]

Coil Pack rewiring:

Since we can no longer use the coil in the default position we need to move it and extend some wiring. It might seem like a daunting task but its not, you will only need to extend and resolder 6 wires.

Start by undoing the cord that goes to the coil. A small socket i think 7mm is needed to remove the coil from the wiring.



Once removed you will need to remove the old tape used to hold the plastic wire shield together. Strip the tape and wire shield back down past the chargers triangular bracket. Pull the wiring out and undo any more tape.



You will now be able to easily identify the 6 coil pack wires that lead towards the battery. Snip each of the wires making sure you have enough room around the wires to manouver wire strippers/stanley knife and soldering iron. Now we need to go back the opposite way of the coil pack leads. Repeat the steps of undoing the tape and shielding, pull the wires out heading back towards the right hand strut tower. NOTE: Be careful of a few earth wires that branch off from the loom. Grab your purchased wire and run lengths from your 6 cut wires towards the strut tower, try keeping the wire length as close as possible to lengths needed. Strip the wire ends twist and solder. If you solder one wire at a time its easier to keep up with which goes to which if your purchased wire is all one color.



Tape the joins and heatshrink if you want extra protection.



When all wires are resoldered grab your coil to mount in its new home on the tyre well wall. I found the fastest hassle free way to mark out the holes to drill is grab either some paint or gasket glue. Put a dab on each of the three bolts and press against the tyre well wall. Hopefully if you pushed it on evenly it will have left 3 perfect marks ready for drilling. Drill the holes. Because of how high i mounted mine i needed to put the single top bolt in first and then the bottom 2 bolts and manouver it down slowly. Bolt the coil pack down through the tyre well wall.



Now the coil pack is in place you can tape up the wiring and put the wire protector plastic back on, tape from the triangular bracket back to the coil plugs base wires, then from the coil packs plug down to the base so you can loop and tape any spare wire back into the loom. As before when tapeing take caution of the earth wires. Connect your 3 longer leads to the pack and to your spark plugs in the proper order and there done.



Will add a couple extra parts in the next few days.

Huge thanks to:

Stocky for his help on this forum and on msn for listening to my stupid questions and burning me a few chips.
VP Luke for his contributions and help on this forum and on msn.
VN Calais Manual for his ideas and thoughts of late on msn.
Pub24/7 for his contributions in the SC14 thread.
daron also for his contributions in the SC14 thread.
Oprah Winfrey Without her finances this could never of happened....

Check out this thread for further questions and previously answered questions: The SC14 Supercharger Thread