Hey guys i did some testing for Mike on his CAT-10 replacement and took photos along the way.
* I TAKE NO RESPONSIBILITY FOR ANY DAMAGE YOU DO TO ANYTHING WHILE YOU FOLLOW THIS TUTORIAL
*Note: This how to can be used for all steering wheel converters that use IR method
First take out your stereo so that all of your wires are exposed
If there is hardly any slack on the wiring loom for your stereo, the loom is connected here by a cable tie, simply put some side cutters up underneath and cut it free, be sure not to cut the wiring loom.
Wire in the steering wheel converter box, wire connections are marked as below. Make sure you ground the Black w/ Yellow trace or the unit will not work.
Once they are all connected point the IR sender at your head unit to make sure everything is working as it should.
I have chosen to mount the IR sender here as i couldn't find anywhere else that would suit this application and still work effectively.
Pull out the lower center console part there is only one screw under the ask tray, and it just pops out. It helps if you remove the cup holder and the small coin try next to the electric window buttons.
Run the cable along like so and bunch it up with around 10cm of slack
*NOTE: Before doing the next step i recommend you test the IR sender at this angle and height to make sure the stereo will receive the commands properly if all goes well and you are confident that it will be adequate continue with the next step
Once you have run the cable take out the lower center console part and drill a hole in this location make sure you do it as high as possible.
Once drilled get a IR mount (found at Jaycar, Black 5MM $2.95 for 20) and make sure it fits in the hole.
I chose to re heat shrink the IR sender as it was to chunky and not on the right angle, recommend you do the same. Make sure it melts in a Right Angle.
Thread the IR sender into the mount and super glue it in, then once that has dried put some hot glue around it to make sure it will never come out.
Reassemble everything and test to see if it works!
Finished Product:
![]()
Last edited by SMIT; 29-07-2009 at 10:36 PM.
-Smit
Great write up there mate
But ur car needs a vacuum![]()
The Blue One
-Smit
this thread is for like a vy stearing wheel controls to work with a after market head unit ??
-Smit
That is obviously in a VY, but which wire does the brown wire on the unit connect to on the car in a VT? The brown wire is there but it is on the plug from the HU, not in the original loom. The HU was already in when we bought the car. It is a Clarion. I cannot find a brown wire on the car side of the loom that goes to the plug. There is a brown wire that loops back on itself though, but this doesn't work.
-Smit
I know this is a old thread, by i recently purchased a Aerpro - CHVYVZA convertor unit.
Thankfully it was a real lazy install where it was just all disconnect the current harness and put the unit between them with its own harness.
I however noticed after putting this in place, when switching the ignition off and back on later, the Head Unit would reset itself.
As a test i removed and hooked the head unit back up the original way, and it worked all good.
I then plugged the Aepro unit back in place and traced the cables.. it appears 1 of the blue wires that is constant to keep head unit memory is missing from the Aepro harness.
Luckily i had a spare harness pieces hanging around and popped the pins out and used that.
This would affect anyone who uses this on any after market head unit.