Replace Rear Brake Pads - Done on VE Commodore
Hi Guys,
Brake pads aren't hard to change, certainly not worth paying 100s for the labour. Here is how I replaced the rear pads on my VE, this should be fairly universal to other models though.
First things first, buy the pads. I just asked for rear pads for an 06 commodore from Supercheap and got some Ferodos for $45
Jack the car up & take your wheel off. It's always a good idea to ensure place a tire (if that's all you have) under the chassis of the car to prevent major damages to yourself or your car if it drops. Also stack some wood up against your front wheels to top it from rolling.
Locate the two bolts on the inside of the brake caliper, one is on the top and one on the bottom. These are tightened at a certain torque so use a torque head socket if you have one and record the torque you used to release the bolts. These can be very tight to undo so use something with a long handle for maximum leveraging power.
The following photo is taken from the underneath rear end of the car and shows where the 2 bolts you need to remove are. You can replace the brake pads by only removing one bolt and swivelling the caliper down but I found it to be easier while the whole thing is off the disk.
The following is a close-up of the top bolt. It is taken from within the wheel arch facing out.
When you undo the top bolt, ensure you do not damage the fuel line.
Once both the bolts have been removed completely from the caliper, slide the caliper off the disk and place on a raised surface (i used an upside down bucket) - Never let the brake line take the full weight of the caliper.
You will need to open the calipers up completly to ensure there is enough room to fit your new pads over the disk.
We will do this with a G-clamp. But first, you may need to take some brake fluid out of your reservoir, this is because pulling the caliper apart will push the fluid back into the reservoir and can cause it to overflow. We used a syringe for this and stored it in a spare bottle.
You may also need to remove the outside pad to allow room for the g-clamp. Leave the inside pad on to protect the brake.
Clamp the clamp over the old inside pad and the bolt on the inside of the brake as shown below, tighten this all the way. You will notice the brakes opening up, you should also keep an eye on the reservoir.
Undo the clamp and remove the old pads. The pads will pull out of the metal clips with a little force.
You will notice the metal plate on the outside of both your old pads. If you don't have these on your new pads, you will be able to re-use these. Just pry them off carefully with a flathead screwdriver.
You may need to flatten them out with a hammer before applying some glue to them and attaching to your new pads. Ensure you line up your new pads with the old ones and attached the corresponding metal plate to the new pads as the outside plate has an arc-shaped groove in it.
With your new pads prepared, insert them into the calipers. This will be a little tricky and they may seem like they aren't going to fit but a little perseverance goes a long way here.
With both pads in, simply slide the brake caliper back over the disc, line up your bolts and fasten together using your torque socket to ensure correct torque.
Put your car in Neutral and start the engine with the handbreak released. Pump the foot brake pedal a few times and replace your brake fluid if needed.
Replace wheel, remove all under-car items and realease the jack. Bed in the new brake pads using the manufacturers directions. As a general guide, get to 60kmh and apply the brakes until you are at about 5kmh, repeat about 10 times. Do not use heavy braking for the first 200kms if possible.
Last edited by PhantomVE; 26-10-2009 at 08:59 AM.
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I Believe
mate, that's an awesome writeup- thanks for taking the time. good pics!
is this the same process for a VR commodore?
Though brake pads arent hard to change, and definatelly not worth 100's in labour, they are easy to stuff up, and many a time we have had cars come into work with home jobs...bent bads, put in wrong etc.
I don't get how that's possible, unless they are mentally retarded? (Not trying to sound like an asshole here...)Originally Posted by chief18
If anyone is going to change brake pads, at least have an understanding of hydraulic systems before changing them. Anyone who would decide to do work on something like this, should understand how the brake works by understanding this you cannot go wrong changing them!
Good post by PhantomVE, but going to too much trouble.
If you're not replacing rotors, there's no need to touch those big 19mm bolts.
If youre just replacing pads, you only need a 15mm socket or ring spanner and an 18mm open end spanner. Undo the bolts on the end of the caliper slides using the socket on the bolt head and the open ender on the inner nut to stop it rotating. Caliper body will slide out easily.Remove the old pads and retract the piston as described by Phantomve, fit new pads, replace calipers and tighten bolts properly. Note that the springs attached to the pads will make you have to use some extra pressure on the caliper body to get the slide bolts to align properly. Take care not to cross thread them.
Extra tip: Before unbolting the calipers, use the G-clamp to partially retract the caliper piston to make it easier to lift the caliper off the disc.
Using this method took me about 50 minutes including the trip up to get the new pads!
Good luck!
Searching for the billion
The write up may not be technically perfect ... I don't think you have a fuel line going to the rear callipers .... But good work on one of the best VE how to's so far.
I’m an F-18, bro
good tutorial but it sounds like like someone has been doing doughies in their ve commodore
I think his referring to the brake fluid line.
I think on the SS it's an optional extra to have powered brakes.
Well spotted
Do I have to?
The metal plates on the back of the old brake pads. Do I really have to put them on the new pads?
I have already fitted the new pads, bleed the brakes and taken the car of he stands.
So please say That it's not needed.
Thanking you all in advance.
Pretty sure they're there for a reasonThe metal plates on the back of the old brake pads. Do I really have to put them on the new pads?
In my opinion (and I'm not a mechanic mind you) you don't need to install the plates.
The plates are there to stop brake squeal. The fancy name for the metal plates is a "brake shim". The work by stopping the pad moving around in the caliper when you apply your foot to the brake pedal.
If you're not getting brake squeal, I wouldn't bother re-installing them. But I wouldn't throw out the shims!
Various manufactures use different brake pad friction material (ie the bit that wears down as you apply the brakes) for their various pads. Some materials are quiet, others (generally the cheaper pads) are not.
In the future, you may buy a brake pad which squeals without the shims, but doesn't squeal with the shims installed. It's a good idea to keep the shims and use them if needed in the future.
Cheers
Moderator Puppeh
Good write up, just used it to change my front pads and this made it a 20 minute job.
what is the general opinion on getting the discs machined when changing pads? im about to do mine and was wondering whether my discs would need a machining?
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