PhantomVE
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- Joined
- May 3, 2008
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- 141
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- Members Ride
- HSV e2 Clubsport R8
Hi Guys,
Brake pads aren't hard to change, certainly not worth paying 100s for the labour. Here is how I replaced the rear pads on my VE, this should be fairly universal to other models though.
First things first, buy the pads. I just asked for rear pads for an 06 commodore from Supercheap and got some Ferodos for $45
Jack the car up & take your wheel off. It's always a good idea to ensure place a tire (if that's all you have) under the chassis of the car to prevent major damages to yourself or your car if it drops. Also stack some wood up against your front wheels to top it from rolling.
Locate the two bolts on the inside of the brake caliper, one is on the top and one on the bottom. These are tightened at a certain torque so use a torque head socket if you have one and record the torque you used to release the bolts. These can be very tight to undo so use something with a long handle for maximum leveraging power.
The following photo is taken from the underneath rear end of the car and shows where the 2 bolts you need to remove are. You can replace the brake pads by only removing one bolt and swivelling the caliper down but I found it to be easier while the whole thing is off the disk.
The following is a close-up of the top bolt. It is taken from within the wheel arch facing out.
When you undo the top bolt, ensure you do not damage the fuel line.
Once both the bolts have been removed completely from the caliper, slide the caliper off the disk and place on a raised surface (i used an upside down bucket) - Never let the brake line take the full weight of the caliper.
You will need to open the calipers up completly to ensure there is enough room to fit your new pads over the disk.
We will do this with a G-clamp. But first, you may need to take some brake fluid out of your reservoir, this is because pulling the caliper apart will push the fluid back into the reservoir and can cause it to overflow. We used a syringe for this and stored it in a spare bottle.
You may also need to remove the outside pad to allow room for the g-clamp. Leave the inside pad on to protect the brake.
Clamp the clamp over the old inside pad and the bolt on the inside of the brake as shown below, tighten this all the way. You will notice the brakes opening up, you should also keep an eye on the reservoir.
Undo the clamp and remove the old pads. The pads will pull out of the metal clips with a little force.
You will notice the metal plate on the outside of both your old pads. If you don't have these on your new pads, you will be able to re-use these. Just pry them off carefully with a flathead screwdriver.
You may need to flatten them out with a hammer before applying some glue to them and attaching to your new pads. Ensure you line up your new pads with the old ones and attached the corresponding metal plate to the new pads as the outside plate has an arc-shaped groove in it.
With your new pads prepared, insert them into the calipers. This will be a little tricky and they may seem like they aren't going to fit but a little perseverance goes a long way here.
With both pads in, simply slide the brake caliper back over the disc, line up your bolts and fasten together using your torque socket to ensure correct torque.
Put your car in Neutral and start the engine with the handbreak released. Pump the foot brake pedal a few times and replace your brake fluid if needed.
Replace wheel, remove all under-car items and realease the jack. Bed in the new brake pads using the manufacturers directions. As a general guide, get to 60kmh and apply the brakes until you are at about 5kmh, repeat about 10 times. Do not use heavy braking for the first 200kms if possible.
Brake pads aren't hard to change, certainly not worth paying 100s for the labour. Here is how I replaced the rear pads on my VE, this should be fairly universal to other models though.
First things first, buy the pads. I just asked for rear pads for an 06 commodore from Supercheap and got some Ferodos for $45
Jack the car up & take your wheel off. It's always a good idea to ensure place a tire (if that's all you have) under the chassis of the car to prevent major damages to yourself or your car if it drops. Also stack some wood up against your front wheels to top it from rolling.
Locate the two bolts on the inside of the brake caliper, one is on the top and one on the bottom. These are tightened at a certain torque so use a torque head socket if you have one and record the torque you used to release the bolts. These can be very tight to undo so use something with a long handle for maximum leveraging power.
The following photo is taken from the underneath rear end of the car and shows where the 2 bolts you need to remove are. You can replace the brake pads by only removing one bolt and swivelling the caliper down but I found it to be easier while the whole thing is off the disk.
The following is a close-up of the top bolt. It is taken from within the wheel arch facing out.
When you undo the top bolt, ensure you do not damage the fuel line.
Once both the bolts have been removed completely from the caliper, slide the caliper off the disk and place on a raised surface (i used an upside down bucket) - Never let the brake line take the full weight of the caliper.
You will need to open the calipers up completly to ensure there is enough room to fit your new pads over the disk.
We will do this with a G-clamp. But first, you may need to take some brake fluid out of your reservoir, this is because pulling the caliper apart will push the fluid back into the reservoir and can cause it to overflow. We used a syringe for this and stored it in a spare bottle.
You may also need to remove the outside pad to allow room for the g-clamp. Leave the inside pad on to protect the brake.
Clamp the clamp over the old inside pad and the bolt on the inside of the brake as shown below, tighten this all the way. You will notice the brakes opening up, you should also keep an eye on the reservoir.
Undo the clamp and remove the old pads. The pads will pull out of the metal clips with a little force.
You will notice the metal plate on the outside of both your old pads. If you don't have these on your new pads, you will be able to re-use these. Just pry them off carefully with a flathead screwdriver.
You may need to flatten them out with a hammer before applying some glue to them and attaching to your new pads. Ensure you line up your new pads with the old ones and attached the corresponding metal plate to the new pads as the outside plate has an arc-shaped groove in it.
With your new pads prepared, insert them into the calipers. This will be a little tricky and they may seem like they aren't going to fit but a little perseverance goes a long way here.
With both pads in, simply slide the brake caliper back over the disc, line up your bolts and fasten together using your torque socket to ensure correct torque.
Put your car in Neutral and start the engine with the handbreak released. Pump the foot brake pedal a few times and replace your brake fluid if needed.
Replace wheel, remove all under-car items and realease the jack. Bed in the new brake pads using the manufacturers directions. As a general guide, get to 60kmh and apply the brakes until you are at about 5kmh, repeat about 10 times. Do not use heavy braking for the first 200kms if possible.
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