Firstly, don't come crying to me if you totally destroy your key and have to go buy a new one. I suggest having a spare if you are going to attempt this, however I don't, so thats why I had a go at fixing it.
Secondly, The rumour that "The key will erase itself once opened and you will have to go pay to re-program the key" is NOT true.
Now with that out of the way, onto the how to...
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If your VR/VS Key is either not disarming the immobliser or the central locking is not working you can see how to fix it below.
What You will need:
(Leatherman can be replaced with screwdrivers etc..)
1) Pry apart the key using a knife/flathead screwdriver, the screws on the key are not holding the case together, so disregard them for now. Mine had already been opened so was just held together with superglue, some may be harder to open than others.
2) Once Opened you will see the following:
Central Locking battery connection (Red)
Immobliser Connection (Green)
Central Locking Aerial Connection (Blue)
3a) [CENTRAL LOCKING FIX]
Now if your central locking is not working it is most likely either the battery is not connected (as seen below) or the aerial is not making connection (blue circle).
3a) i) To fix hold the battery down, it can just be clipped back in but chances are it will come undone again, so I used a little bit of superglue under the battery, then clipped it in. Depending on how bent up the battery is, you can also just place foil under the battery, making contact with the connection underneath it. To make sure the central locking worked, I also put a piece of foil in between the actual key (metal part) and the aerial connection (as seen below). I just found it easiest to loosen the screw a bit, put the foil in then tighten screw.
3b) [IMMOBILIZER FIX]
Now, as you would probably know, the immobliser is disarmed for 30 seconds once the central locking is activated, and this usually suffices, but can be a pain in the ass. If the immobliser does not disarm with the key in the ignition on ACC, then you want to make sure the metal rod is making proper connection with the ignition barrel connections and the inside of the key (green circle). This part slides out, just make sure the connections are all clean etc.
4) You want to make sure it works, so put all parts back into place and put the key back together. While holding the key together, go to your car and test the central locking. Lock it again using the key so the immobliser arms. Open the car using the keyhole and now turn your key to ACC, see if the immobliser light goes out. If you did it right, it should. Key fixed
4) Now just run some superglue around the outside. Hold firm for 30 seconds. You now have a fully functioning key.
I figured this all out my self experimenting, so if I have left anything out, or doing anything wrong let me know. Otherwise have fun. Ill try answer any questions you have as best as I can.
Max![]()
Good write up mate!!! I might use it on my old key when it dies.
any ideas on how to fix the button if its cover is broken off? My key is in tact and works but the outer soft cover that you press to unlock the car is broken off and I have a tiny hole to try and put a big finger in to to unlock the car its driving me insane!
Ive heard using sikaflex or similar, just take the buttons out once pryed apart and just put sikaflex in there and smooth it off in line with the rim of the button (If that makes sense)
the screws on my keys are either screwed or missing , would i just go to holden and get new original ones or am i able to get them else where, just i hate wagga holden with a passion
I got new screws for both my keyheads from one of those shops that are in major shopping centres,theyre usually in the centre walkways & usually do other stuff like watch repairs,key cutting etc.
The guy just replaced them for free so i dont imagine they would charge anymore than a couple of dollars at most.
"If you're going through hell, keep going"
Yeh the screws arent that special. If you couldnt find them you could maybe ask around this forum if someones got a dead key or whatever. They're just small, flat bottomed screws, im sure you could find some similar somwhere
Guys i seriously would not open your keys up they are a sealed unit for a reason,, Factory original VR keys are the only ones that should ever be opened as they were designed to have the battery replaced,,, Every other model the battery is soldered in place an a replacement battery wont work as the remote was not designed to take a replacement item,, You can blow the circuit in the remote. Holden Factory batteries are slightly different to the batteries you buy at you local shop..
To save yourself the dramas just take the working key to a locksmith an get them to copy it onto a new head,, simple an easy to do takes all of 5min,, Holden will charge a bucket load for a new key last i checked was $180 for the key then ya gotta take it somewhere to get cut if you getting a whole new key, expect to pay around the $50 mark to get it cut then back to Holden for another $80ish to get it programed... A decent locksmith should be able to cut an program the key for around $100 to $130. again takes all of 10min if they a decent locksmith. To introduce the key to the car takes all of 30seconds its so simple...
To save yourself the dramas i seriously recommend not opening the heads,,, also before anyone says i have no idea what im on about iv been in the key industry for nearly 3 years and at my old job i specialized in automotive keys an not just Holden..
My key was working ok, but the buttons were shagged. I ordered a new button from these guys and its just like new again.
Replacing Worn Key buttons in Holden Commodore car key remotes.
It was easy to fit and didn't have to take the key apart to replace the button.
All i was saying is there is a possibility of the key completely ****ing up an in that case your screwed there is no other way to get a key made unless you go to Holden directly an pay for it out your ass.. but hey what ever ya wanna do go for it i don care.. Everything i have said before is completely true an some people obviously just have no idea.
Iv said my bit here.. Enjoy
With the remote locking, is the aerial it goes to the same as the radios aerial on the car?
Not actually too sure where the arial is for the locking, im assuming engine bay somewhere.
And cheers vymad![]()
fixed my mates vr key with this, thanks!
Fixed up my spare key following this guide, battery had lost contact, used some foil and pliers and works a treat.![]()
Glad to see some people getting use of this![]()
can anyone tell me if this is the right battery for a VR remote?
CR2032-VC - 3V PCB Mounting Lithium coin battery - Jaycar Electronics
1995 Manual HSV Clubsport
Wade Cam :: 9.2:1 CR :: Pacemaker headers :: Twin 2.5" Exhaust :: VT Brakes
1991 Supercharged VN Berlina
9 PSI SC14 Intercooled :: Genie headers :: Twin cats :: HM Twin 2.25 exhaust :: 3.45:1 LSD
hey guys. with my vr i have trouble starting it sometimes. i turn the key all the way around and it still brings the dash lights on and radio etc but wont crank the starter over. would this mean that the terminal on my key isnt engaging with the ring around the ignition? anyhelp would be great. cheers
shane_90,
my Vs ute key only remote unlocks (it only has the rubber unlock button and hard plastic where the 'lock' button should be) I have to lock it with the key itself. I have another VS key from a mates write-off with both buttons. Do u know if a locksmith can re-program the dual button key for my ute?
Cheers
Works like a treat, sealed unit or not thanks mate, saved a pensioner $ I dont have
I've now fixed both my keys with this method. I slipped with the stanley knife on the last one while cutting/prying it apart, got a good, deep cut in my hand with four stitches donated by my local Dr to hold it together. Oh well saved me over a hundred bucks for a new key head. LOL.
'Ah well, I suppose it had to come to this.'