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Thread: HOW to race your car

  1. #1
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    Default HOW to race your car

    Ok guys i have been doing sum reserch for you and this is my final product from what my reserch has tought me....

    So im assuiming by reading this you wish to learn about improving your ¼ mile times, ill tell you now it does seem easy to do and it is simply push the gas and go straight, however if you wish to make your times better this will help you alot as it has me

    PREPARING YOUR CAR
    Ok so were preparing your car for your street meet at the local drag strip, the first task it get your car scrutineering the key things they will look for is anytihng that my hurt anybody so things like umbrellas or rubbish in ur your car must be gone anyway who wants to look at a dirty car your here to show off arnt you, secondly they will inspect your car for modifications and mechanical faults(any leaks on your car even if it only water chances are u cannot race as it can contaminate the track.

    Now that your car has passed you are ready to race if it your 1st time you will benifit from jsut getting on and having a go to get the feeling of it and understand what it is like
    Now things that will affect your time are object in you car that you dont need such as spare tire, jack, tools and anything that you can remove with ease i wudn’t go as far to take seats out
    Now your tyres are very important as they are the last step to getting power to the ground most off you may think a big burnout spewing smoke everywere to show of is good and make look awsome your wrong it gets very technical. On street tyres DONT SPIN THE WHEELS it does nothing, they are designed to have traction across all temrature ranges and keep the pressure at the recomended pressure
    how ever if you have slicks on a burnout does help as they have a optimal traction and certain temps now this is were track temprature comes into because they will warm your tyres up in one spot more than other causing an uneven heating so study the track temp and study your slicks specification it should tell you all this, that hard part is judging the temprature u can get it with in 10degrees by using heat sticks adn from that u can judge how long to spin the wheels for
    Now that you have got your wheel to optimum temps time to stage you car slowly creep forward still your 2 stage lights come on the but dont go past it and if you do dont put it in revers to revers back you dont wanna get a green light and plant it while its in reverse could be very bad and embarrasing
    Reaction time is based on how quik you get power to the wheels ALOT of things can affect such as your person reaction time and the reaction time to get power to the wheels by knowing that the time difference between each amber lights (4 tenths of a second) and knowing how long it take you and your car to get moving you can get close to perfect reaction time
    From what ive heard and learnt time as followes 1-0.5 is good with 0.5 being the avg 0.5-0.3 is good and you going really well and anyting better than that you jsut need to fine tune when you go.
    When going you want to get the best take of to in an auto jsut press on the brack with your left foot and using your right foot lighly press on the accelorator and reslease the brake when it time
    In a manual car it more difficult
    Depress the clutch and keep your RPMs in the best launching speed this will need practise and expermintation to find release clutch when u want to go
    Now that your going it simple get to the other side as quick as you can find your best shift points in your car to accelorate faster this will need experimentation to and practise

    Now that you have raced the studing comes into play when you giving your time slip your automatic reaction is to look at your ET or established time
    But other factors can help you

    Reaction time: fairly simple you want this as low as you can and all you can do is practise and find the right time to go ie. On the second amberlight lights up
    60ft: this is your time to cover 60ft of the track this is a good indicator how well your getting of the line compare this from different runs to find out what works for you
    330ft:this is your time to cover 330ft and is good indication on your realy shift points adn fi your gettin you lower gears good usaully gears 1-3
    1/8 mile: again this is to aid you shift points usually gears 3-5
    1000ft : this is used to asses that final part your run to find wetcher ur losing accelation at the higher speed.
    ¼ mile: this is your final time and the one to show off
    ¼ mph/kph this is simply your speed thruogh the finish line wich is also given on the 1/8 mile

    By understaind these things you can improve your times
    Hope this helps for you newbies or even those of you that race alot but didnt kno anyof this
    IF YOU WANNA REV IT CHEV IT

  2. #2
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    you know whats sad? even if i did have slicks i wouldnt be able to do a burnout standing still, dunno if its converter in gearbox or diff but u cant msh brake and throttle to create a burnout in my car (vz) unlike the older commodores , whats the solution to that aye?

  3. #3
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    get a tune then you'll be able to do skids.

    my old car vz sv6 wouldnt do burnouts at a standstill only if i started with a donut or two.

    after tune it would light it right up.

  4. #4
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    whats stopping it? its computer making it stall up instead of releasing or what? ah well ill find out one day

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    The three T's,TORQUE TURNS TYRES ftw lol.You need more of it.

    Or you can multiply it sooner(torque you got) and fit more aggressive final drive ratio.Does this make sense to you guys?

  6. #6
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    yeh i get it but it cant be pinned down to just that can it? doesnt the alloy make more nm then eco? and eco can sit there and fry em

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    Traction control? VZ also uses fly-by-wire (no throttle cable) so even though your foots to the floor the ECU probably limits how much throttle it wants to give. As above I'd say a tune would fix it up.
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  8. #8
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    ehy yeh your prbably right about that, electric throttle control. anyways not gonna spend money on tune for a car i really only want till p plates r up

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    haha cool as, i sorta noticed that if i had the brakes pressed and i held the accelerator a tad i took off abit more quicker with the auto.. i thought i was just imagining though lol,, but yeh cool info dude!

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    i go full throttle while sitting on the handbrake and foot brake when launching but traction becomes an issue as soon as you release the brake bigger tyres and spool next time out see if i can get it to actually move off the line leaveing on 10psi.manual normally hold the handbrake up rev to 3000-4000 rpm slip the clutch till its about to fully grab so its held back hard on the brakes then stomp it and let the clutch out at the same time and it will take off not enough rpm it will bog to much it will spin riding the clutch for the first couple of feet is the best way
    I tune the oldschool way fear on the passengers face and knuckle colour cant go wrong
    tabbacco is still my favorite vegetable

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    Quote Originally Posted by Damien90 View Post
    you know whats sad? even if i did have slicks i wouldnt be able to do a burnout standing still, dunno if its converter in gearbox or diff but u cant msh brake and throttle to create a burnout in my car (vz) unlike the older commodores , whats the solution to that aye?
    i had that problem when i first jumped into my vx ss. haha not used to having to turn off the traction control

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damien90 View Post
    you know whats sad? even if i did have slicks i wouldnt be able to do a burnout standing still, dunno if its converter in gearbox or diff but u cant msh brake and throttle to create a burnout in my car (vz) unlike the older commodores , whats the solution to that aye?
    The Alloytec computer limits torque. This is because the 5 speed automatic in the SV6 is weak as piss and would just break otherwise. That's why an Ecotec launches MUCH harder off the line even though the specs say it should have less torque.

    It also has a few other anti-fun features, e.g. you can't rev it over 4000rpm in neutral.

    The Ecotec has none of that crap and will light 'em up all day long

  13. #13
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    ah now i know. thanks tons for the info mate. u think that limits fun? try putting the handbrake on while going 2km/h in drive. feel like the car is bout to fall apart lol

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    the other limiting factor will be the diff, most commies have a 3.08 ratio diff, which is tall for any thing, this is why commies get good economy. changing to a 3.50 or even a 4.11 will give you more acceleration, but a lower top speed and worse economy.
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    any fat chicks in the back? that usually causes lack of power and bad fuel economy

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Damien90 View Post
    you know whats sad? even if i did have slicks i wouldnt be able to do a burnout standing still, dunno if its converter in gearbox or diff but u cant msh brake and throttle to create a burnout in my car (vz) unlike the older commodores , whats the solution to that aye?
    im able to do it in my vy, much to my knoladge they are quite the some electronicly

  16. #16
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    you know whats worse than this thread?

    digging it up with spelling errors and posting useless rubbish.

  17. #17
    GEN3RATD's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Blazed1101 View Post
    im able to do it in my vy, much to my knoladge they are quite the some electronicly
    that is terrible english, your english teacher would be horrified.


    If it isnt tuckin, it must be suckin

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    Quote Originally Posted by impulsed_sv6 View Post
    On street tyres DONT SPIN THE WHEELS it does nothing, they are designed to have traction across all temrature ranges and keep the pressure at the recomended pressure
    well mate that is totally wrong, started reading then read this and thought well the rest is probally garbage, i know for a damn fact that i run street tyres, triangles 17x235x45 and they are $135 a pop, cheap and nasty, well 0-100 time will be 6.4 on cold tyres and then with a lil warm up skid pushing 6.0 and that is using a g-tech.
    Vs eco 3.8, extractors, 2.75" exhaust, roller rockers, cammed, bored out 20, t5 manual, rolling on king springs all way round with monroe gt shocks all way round, every door has a ding but looks can be very deceaving

  19. #19
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    warmer rubber = more grip, enough said.


    If it isnt tuckin, it must be suckin

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    Quote Originally Posted by Damien90 View Post
    ah now i know. thanks tons for the info mate. u think that limits fun? try putting the handbrake on while going 2km/h in drive. feel like the car is bout to fall apart lol
    Soo true... Shit just goes Bang lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by DM 55 WA View Post
    that is terrible english, your english teacher would be horrified.
    It’s sad I know he would be, I didn’t go well in English no, however please forgive was mid way through a 4000 word uni essay and found this quite interesting, and sadly enough might I add I’m doing education.. However it was good procrastination I think.. None the less yes maybe useless information yet was information at that and got a few people to read this!


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