This took a lot of searching (although searching was useless) a bit of trial and error. After looking around and asking what size the TB and MAF are and ordering the wring size hoses 2 times the 3rd time I ended up getting the right silicone hoses.
The idea I has started from reading about the intakes to the carby or a TB as smooth as possible for the best air flow. I don't claim that you will see a increase in power at all, it may be less than 1kw or more and there is no way Ill put it on a dyno to find out.
At first I looked in places like Autobarn and Super Cheap for silicone hoses, they are around about $50 for the straight one and $70 for the 45 degree bend. I looked online at other places in Australia online but they were still higher in price. I ended up finding a guy on ebay located in China and asked him for his best price for the 2 items I needed, it was $22 AUD delivered for the 2 silicone hoses combined.
I got some Tridon T-bolt clamps for around $5 each from a local radiator joint and a 3" OD pipe from sprints although Ill probably change that to 3" ID and stretch the silicone hoses around it as I have done for the TB and MAF sensor.
The guy recomended 75-80mm T-bolt clamps but I said they will be too small so I got some 80-85mm clamps. When the hoses are stretched over the TB and MAF even the 80-85mm don't fit so I would recommend to buy 86-91mm T-bolt clamps. I will be buying some soon when I get some 3" ID tube for the joining section.
What you will need:
x2 Silicone hoses: $22
3" ID straight joiner and a 3" ID 45 degree elbow.
x2 80-85mm T-bolt clamps: $20
x2 86-91mm T-bolt clamps: $20
x1 3" Pipe: $0
Got this from the exhaust dude for free when I asked for it.
You could probably find the clamps for cheaper and definently find the joining pipe for cheaper but it was convenient at the time where I was to buy it there although I will have to buy 4 more clamps and another joining pipe anyway.
Step 1: Remove engine cover.
Undo the 4 x 10mm bolts then lift the cover up and forward. Notice the corrugated surface of the intake pipe, it is the same on the inside as well, creating resistance to air flow.
Step 2: Remove the standard intake from the MAF to the TB, undo the clamps with a screwdriver or a 8mm socket/spanner.
Step 3: Undo the clips to the air filter box and disconnect the wire connected to the top of the lid. You will need this off because its a tight fit and you cant put the joiner in when the 2 ends of the silicone are nearly touching.
Step 4: Im pretty sure you can work out how to put hoses on the TB and MAF as well as putting the clamps on and tightening them up, once done don't forget to clip your air box lid back down and put the plug back in. Re-install engine cover if required (I will be polishing my plenum and leaving it off)
Note: As I got the wrong size clamps I had to reused the stock clamps on the TB and MAF, I will put up more pictures another time when I have the right joiner and clamps connected.
Finished pics: (sort of)
The reason I want 3" ID pipe is because I want to stretch the silicone wider where it joins. I had thought about going 4" but it turns out to be a waste with dead air sitting in there and no better than stock. Straight thought the same ID and smooth is the way to go.
Edit: I got a differnt joiner and got the correct 86-91mm clamps for the TB and MAF end today, Ill post up more pics when I put them on.
With the 86-91mm clamps on TB and MAF, only just noticed they arent straight but I'll fix that up another time.
Last edited by 2DIE; 21-01-2011 at 10:32 PM.
Best RPG ever!
awsome mate, did you get any gains, better responce etc, and do you think your mod would be better than the 4" intake pipe on v6 performance
who's the fella you got the hose off from ebay? got a link?
Check out my ride here >>>>My VX Raptor
say NO to chev badges
For Sale=>> Billet short shifter suit Getrag gearbox
I don't think you're going to get huge gains from this mods. And I don't think thats the OP's objective.
Four inch pipe work wont make any difference, the smooth pipe work is where the improvement is. Convoluted pipe causes turbulance which essentailly slow the airspeed down. Which in essance is a restriction.
Smooth pipe doesn't do this. So the engine uses less effort to draw the oxygen into the motor. It won't increase the power at the wheels, but it will make it easier to do, what it already does.
So you may notice a very smally increase in throttle response and the engine may rev a little smoother through the RPM range.
Wouldn't make any difference.
Except in price.
The 4" pipe isnt as good for the TB and MAF as they are 3", 4" pipe would just create a chamber and slow down the air inside unless you had a 4" TB and MAF to suit it.
eBay My World - zenaracing
I asked for his best price on what I needed including shipping, after I agreed he asked for my email and send a invoice through paypal. I didn't actually buy it though ebay.
Best RPG ever!
You want air speed. Too small will slow it down and restrict it, to big will slow it down and restrict it. That's why bigger throttle bodies are a little on the waste of time side IMO.
Especially when the throttle body port on the plenum is as small as it is. I almost doubled the size of the port opening.
eBay Australia: Buy new & used fashion, electronics & home d
Just ordered the 2 silicon pipes of $37.50 express delivery out of melbourne , if anyone interrested...
Originally Posted by perkoracin
Click here for my new 2013 SV6-Z Manual Ute!
nice write up
Mate, those hose clamps you got are used on FI cars that run decent boost. A little overkill if you ask me lol.
did this in conjunction with an ss inductions growler CAI