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Thread: Replacing the Tensioner Pulley - V6

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    FXST01's Avatar
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    Default Replacing the Tensioner Pulley - V6

    Tools needed:

    18mm socket and bar or 18mm spanner
    Locktite

    1. Remove fan belt by using the 18mm spanner and rotating the pulley assembly anti clock wise.

    2. Undo the bolt holding the tensioner pulley on, use the 18mm spanner and turn the bolt clockwise to undo the bolt (the bolt is actually right hand threaded.)

    3. Place new pulley onto shaft, drop some loctite onto bolt and screw in (anti clockwise) Manual states 40 - 60 Nm is the torque setting.

    4. Rotate pulley anti clock wise again and replace fanbelt.

    5. Picture of comprehensive instructions that came with new pulley.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Replacing the Tensioner Pulley - V6-1.jpg   Replacing the Tensioner Pulley - V6-2.jpg   Replacing the Tensioner Pulley - V6-3.jpg   Replacing the Tensioner Pulley - V6-4.jpg  
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    Thanks man, this will be useful in a few days time. Damn that is one clean motor.

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    jahbull Guest

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    Do you know you don't have to replace the whole pulley if it's only the bearing buggered? I replaced mine a couple of weeks ago for the price of a $6 bearing! Holden would have you believe that the whole thing comes as a complete assembly.

    Cheers..................Pete!

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    Did use any thread locker on this one ? (Sorry mate, early in morning and i didnt read your mention of loctite, sorry). Would you place any grease on the thread ?

    Also are the part No.s the same for the VX series 1 ? Good write up.

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    vx will be differant as it is an ecotech motor.

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    Quote Originally Posted by vxcalais_01 View Post
    Would you place any grease on the thread ?
    Is this a good idea?

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    To undo the bolt do you turn to the left or right because somone else told me undo the bolt to the left

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    hako is offline Donating Member
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    Quote Originally Posted by BOGANV8 View Post
    The bolt is a left hand thread so undo clockwise.....
    Read this wrong....BoganV8 is correct.
    Last edited by hako; 20-05-2009 at 12:42 PM. Reason: big mistake!!! think I'm losing it!

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    Hi all, has anybody noted the bearing code or sizes as I dont want to take mine apart without the replacement on the bench ?

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    Hi all, has anybody noted the bearing code or sizes as I dont want to take mine apart without the replacement on the bench ?

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    You dont have to press the bearing out to read the part number. Just take it off the car, degrease it and you will be able to read it from the back. Its stamped into the seals in fine print.

    Of the three pulleys on an eco, two are the same and one is unique.

    Common bearings too.

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    Or pop into your local Auto shop and have a look at some new ones. Read the bearing numbers.

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    unless it's an aftermarket metal pulley having a bearing number is no help, the stock plastic one are a molded 1 piece unit, pressing the bearing out will destroy it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jxw View Post
    unless it's an aftermarket metal pulley having a bearing number is no help, the stock plastic one are a molded 1 piece unit, pressing the bearing out will destroy it.
    Correct

    The replacement bearing for the aftermarket steel pulleys is a 6203-2RS I believe. I can double check that one if required.

    I still think the reason that these fail so quickly is the fact that they use a single row deep groove roller bearing which isn't designed to carry a vertical load like this. You really want 2 bearing side by side to ensure that the pulley runs true.

    Cheers
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    That's a great idea.

    Twin high speed bearings well spaced apart in machined pulleys would really help hold everything square and true. Much more so than now.

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    Quote Originally Posted by BowTie View Post
    That's a great idea.

    Twin high speed bearings well spaced apart in machined pulleys would really help hold everything square and true. Much more so than now.
    Or use a double row ball bearing
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    Hmmm. The journals arent the tightest fit. You can push the bearings out with a stick. I reckon a lot of the wobble i observe on them is bearing movement in the journal itself.

    I'm only thinking the dual journal bike hub design for a 8000+ redline.

    Will try a double row upgrade for sure.

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    You really need to get a pulley machined to suit the width of a double row bearing so the load is centered properly over the axis of the bearings. If I had a lathe at home I would do it myself, unfortunately......

    I have a replacement steel pulley and the bearings seem to fit well enough but I like the look of alloy pulleys
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    As a note, when changing out the Waterpump, one of the pulleys will need to come off, as Holden made the pulleys bigger as a upgrade to remove some slack on the engine belt.

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