This is just a quick type up, will add pics next time I do one at work or home.
You have to remove the serpentine belt, unbolt the A/C Compressor,
loosen (don't completely remove) the 3 bolts on the engine mount bracket (L/H/S of the engine),
then go to the other side and remove the 2 nuts on top of the engine mount (R/H/S), then lift the car up on a hoist, or jack the car up and put it on stands, then undo the bottom engine mount bolts (2 on each side), (at this point, if you want you can remove the plastic engine cover),
then get a block of wood or similar, put it on the jack, and jack the motor up by the sump, you will then be able to remove the R/H/S engine mount, with the L/H/S completely remove the 3 bracket bolts,
bolt up the new engine mount and start the 3 bolts into the engine, on the R/H/S, start the top nuts but don't completely tighten them, then slowly let the engine down, while at the same time lining up the bottom of the engine mounts,
once both mounts are in, you can remove the jack and start and tighten all nuts and bolts,
refit the A/C compressor, serpentine belt, engine cover, etc.
DO NOT remove the pipe off the A/C Compressor, just undo the 2 nuts from the front, and the small bolt on the side, and simply pull the compressor to the side.
Reason for removing engine cover is so that when you jack up the motor, it doesn't damage it and also engine will jack up more because there will be more room between the motor and firewall.
You will have to remove the whole bracket off the L/H/S (Passenger side) of the motor because you wont be able to get the one of the top nuts on the engine mount, and also don't forget to tighten the top of the new engine mount before bolting the bracket back on.
Take note of which way the engine mounts came off because they are only supposed to go one way (i'm not talking about upside down).
Genuine engine mounts are oil filled, I recommend getting your new mounts from repco, they are all rubber and sit slightly higher then the original ones and in my opinion last alot longer then genuine.
On the L/H/S there is a wire that runs underneith the engine mount, make sure it doesn't get caught anywhere while tightening the bracket/mount. Also the bolt closest to the back of the engine has goes through another small bracket for a sensor that sits next to the engine mount, that bracket stays on the outside of the engine mount bracket, not between the engine block and engine mount bracket.
Don't jack the engine up by the sump unless there is a block of wood between the sump and jack, you could damage the sump.
Last edited by scvs6; 02-07-2011 at 08:01 AM.
quick note on this process as your engine was probably resting on the frame before replacement this may stretch out your accelerator cable as it did on mine as the engine now will sit higher. If you find your idle speed sitting up around 1400 rpm as mine was you will need to adjust your accelerator cable for the correct idle speed.