Service and Checkover (Detailed)

[scvs6]

This 'how to' will cover pretty much any car that you want to service. Car being used is a 2001 WH Statesman so your car may differ is some aspects, but you will get the general idea of what to do. This thread will be constantly updated.

Disclaimer: I do not take any responsibility for injuries or damages that may occur from using this guide. These methods work best using a hoist or a jack and four safety stands. If you have any concerns about anything, then take it to a mechanic and get them to do it for you. If you have any questions, then by all means ask. The more questions you ask the better, because hopefully it will prevent you from injury and you will learn as well.

HOW TO SERVICE AND CHECKOVER YOU CAR.

1. Get in the car you are about to service.

2. Check to see if the horn is working. Most horn buttons are located on the steering wheel.

Horn switch.


3. Check to see if the windscreen washers and wipers are working. Also make sure that the wiperblade inserts are not ripped or torn. Don't forget some cars also have a rear wiperblade and washer jet, so check those as well.

Windscreen Washer and Wiper Switch.


Windscreen Wiperblades.


4. Check all exterior lights to see if they are all working. You may need someone to help you check the brake lights, but the rest you can check yourself. Make sure the handbrake is on while checking the reverse lights.

Headlight Switch.


Checking to see if the lights are operating correctly.


5. Pull the handbrake lever on, then off, to see how far it comes up. If it comes up too high then it will need adjusting. To do this, jack up the car and place on safety stands, remove the rear wheels, you will see 2 rubber grommets, remove one, look for the adjuster, turn the adjuster until the rotor locks up (doesn't spin), then back off about 3 clicks.

Handbrake Lever.


6. Open the bonnet.

Open bonnet revealing engine bay.


7. Check all fluid level, and top up as necessary.

Brake Fluid.


Power Steering Fluid.


Washer Bottle Fluid. (Excuse the half eaten lid, a mouse must have been hungry).


Battery. (Note that you cannot check fluid levels in maintenance free batteries, such as the one shown).


Transmission Fluid. (Note that this must be done with the engine running and the transmission placed in the park position).


Coolant Overflow Bottle and the Radiator. (Only check the level in the radiator when the engine is cold, the system is under high pressure when hot and will cause serious burns - trust me, I know from experience).


Also with manual cars, you will need to check the clutch fluid, and gearbox oil.

8. Check the engine belt/s for cracks and adjustment (Note you cannot adjust the belt/s on some cars due to an automatic tensioner). If the belt/s have heaps of small cracks then they will need to be replaced.

Engine belt. (This belt is free of cracks and cannot be adjusted so it can be left alone).


9. Check all tyre pressures, including the spare in the boot. If you cannot do this at home, then check them at the servo next time you fill up with fuel. Recommended tyre pressures should be located on a tyre placard when you open the drivers door, in the engine bay, in the owners manual, or if not, it should be located on the sidewall of the tyre.

Tyre Placard.


Tyre Valve.


10. Now its time to get underneath the car. If you're using a hoist, then locate the four points for the hoist arms. If you're using a jack, then jack the car up from the K Frame, NOT THE ENGINE SUMP, and place the safety stands under the chassis rails. When jacking up from the rear, jack up the car from the diff.

The K Frame.


Jack under the K Frame.


Chassis Rail. (Sorry, my safety stands were being used on another vehicle at the time of taking photos).


Where to place the stands when jacking up the rear of the car. (Where that bolt is).


These are also the four points to use when using a two post hoist.

11. Once the car is up, get an oil drain tin, then loosen the sump plug and drain the oil. It is recommended that you don't do this while the engine is warn as the hot engine oil will burn you and cause serious injury.

Sump Plug.


The size of this sump plug is 19mm. Sump plug sizes vary depending on the make of the vehicle.

12. Once the oil has been drained, refit the sump plug. Do not over tighten as you can damage the sump and/or the threads.

13. Remove the old Oil Filter and replace it with a new one. Make sure you wipe where it seals and make sure the old gasket off the old Oil Filter didn't stay on the engine.

Oil Filter. (Note not all Oil Filters are spin on as pictures, some are cartridge types. If you ask your local Repco/Burson store, they can tell you give you the correct oil filter).


14. Check the Diff oil level. Remove the Diff Filler Plug and the oil should start to come out, if it does, then its at the correct level. Replace the Diff Filler Plug and tighten. Once again, no need to over tighten to avoid damage.

Diff Filler Plug.


15. Now its time to give underneath the car a general checkover.

Check the tail shaft, centre bearing and uni's. This car has rubber mount, if your does as well, make sure they are not cracked.

Centre Bearing. (Should have little to no up and down movement).


Uni's. (One on each end of the tail shaft).


Check the brakes and brake hoses (for cracks).

Look behind the caliper and you should be able to see the brake pads.


Brake Pads closest to the Rotors.


Same with the rear brakes.




Check the exhaust, mufflers, and mounts. (Just tap the muffler and if it is burnt out you will here it rattle.

Muffler.


Check Suspension. (If you see the rear shockers or front struts leaking oil then they need replacing.

Rear Shocker.


Front Strut. Also check the Link Pins to make sure these is no movement. They are connected to the strut as seen in this photo.


Check drive shaft boots. (Note if the car is front wheel drive, it still has drive shafts, they are just located in the front instead of the rear.


Check all rubber bushes under the car. Located where there is movement.

Check the Steering Rack Boots.

Check the Steering Rack Tie Rod Ends. To check these, rock the front wheel (by hand) side to side and you will notice that it feels loose, if they feel like that then they need replacing.


Check the tyre wear pattern. Remember if there is too much air, it will wear in the centre of the tyre mostly, not enough air, it will wear near the edges. A tyre also has wear bars, use these to see when the tread gets close, the tyres will need replacing.


Check for Oil leaks or anything else leaking that shouldn't be.

As you can see with this car, the air conditioning compressor is leaking and needs replacing.


16. Jack down the car carefully using the same procedure you used to jack up the car.

17. Get a funnel and sit it where you are going to put the oil into the engine (to prevent oil spilling). Check your owners manual to see how much oil the engine holds, then put that amount of oil into the engine. Refit the Oil Filler cap, start the engine, switch engine off once the oil light has gone out, re-check the engine oil.

Oil Filler Cap.


18. Once the oil is at the correct level, close the bonnet.

19. Lubricate the door hinges on all four doors.

20. Write out a service sticker and place on your windscreen on the top right hand side.

21. If you own a VT-VE Commodore and you wish to reset the service due indicator, then follow the steps in this thread: Holden Commodore/Statesman Service Lamp Re Set Procedures VT-VE

Well I hope this information has helped someone, people may not go to these extremes when servicing their car, but this is the way I do it everytime I service my own or a customers car. This thread will be updated, will more information, more photos, so keep checking back for updates.

Disclaimer: I do not take any responsibility for injuries or damages that may occur from using this guide. These methods work best using a hoist or a jack and four safety stands. If you have any concerns about anything, then take it to a mechanic and get them to do it for you. If you have any questions, then by all means ask. The more questions you ask the better, because hopefully it will prevent you from injury and you will learn as well.

[mayes]

very nice thanks mate

[aaronevolution]

I always thought that you should drain the oil while its hot?

[scvs6]

I always thought that you should drain the oil while its hot?

Yeah you can (and I do drain it while its hot), but for someone that is servicing the car and hasn't done it before, they need to watch out that they don't get burn't by the hot oil.

[GothicKidd]

Looks the goods man Cheers

[aaronevolution]

Yeah you can (and I do drain it while its hot), but for someone that is servicing the car and hasn't done it before, they need to watch out that they don't get burn't by the hot oil.

Ah ofcourse.

[ls1 tiga]

great write up!
i only know the basics of cars, like maintaince fluid levels and whatnot, till she goes to the mech for a service
pics of the bolts to adjust when tightening the hand brake would be useful and also to top up the diff oil

well done tho, full kudos!!!

[scvs6]

great write up!
i only know the basics of cars, like maintaince fluid levels and whatnot, till she goes to the mech for a service
pics of the bolts to adjust when tightening the hand brake would be useful and also to top up the diff oil

well done tho, full kudos!!!

Thanks mate, and thanks for the suggestions.

With the handbrake, I will take photos next time I have the rear wheels off. But all you have to do is:

1. Jack up the rear of the car and place on safety stands.
2. Remove the rear wheels.
3. On the face of the brake rotors (where the wheel studs are), you will see two rubber grommets opposite each other.
4. Remove one of the grommets.

Now depending on what car it is your adjusting the handbrake on (different makes are in different locations), you need to get a torch, look in through the hole, turn the brake rotor until you can see the adjusting wheel (looks like a cog).

5. Turn the adjusting wheel with a screwdriver one way, if the rotor tightens up then you are going the right way, turn it until the rotor locks up (doesn't spin).
6. Back off 3 clicks, or until rotor can spin freely, while just making contact with the handbrake shoes.

To take photos though, I will have to remove one of my rear rotors so I can take a photo of the adjusting wheel.

But I will be doing this when I get some time, or even when I service my Statesman next. (I lifted it up on the hoist just so I could take photos for this write up, didn't even service it haha).

[Luke52]

Awesome write-up mate

[scvs6]

Thanks for the positive comments guys

[Jxw]

19. Lubricate the door hinges on all four doors.

maybe add to also lubricate the door lock mechs and strikers, check strap, bonnet hinges (if applicable), bonnet lock and boot lock

Perhaps add in how to adjust the front wheel bearings if there is excessive movement.

Regarding brake fluid if it's a few years old or at the km interval it may be good to replace it instead of just topping it up, i only mention this as i have a car that the fluid looks fine, great color etc but when tested it is actually full of moisture, it sent the moisture tester off the scale.

Not all rotors have holes to access the park brake adjust, some you need to remove the rotor, adjust and place the rotor back on to test, if there's an excessive lip on the surface where the pads sit it can make this a difficult job.


Great write up, should be useful to people just starting out.

[scvs6]

19. Lubricate the door hinges on all four doors.

maybe add to also lubricate the door lock mechs and strikers, check strap, bonnet hinges (if applicable), bonnet lock and boot lock

Thanks for the suggestion, it will be updated with pictures.

Perhaps add in how to adjust the front wheel bearings if there is excessive movement.

I could add that, but I wont be able to upload any photos as I don't have any vehicles with adjustable wheel bearings. Thanks for the suggestion though.

Regarding brake fluid if it's a few years old or at the km interval it may be good to replace it instead of just topping it up, i only mention this as i have a car that the fluid looks fine, great color etc but when tested it is actually full of moisture, it sent the moisture tester off the scale.

That is very true, I will add that in the next update as well.

Not all rotors have holes to access the park brake adjust, some you need to remove the rotor, adjust and place the rotor back on to test, if there's an excessive lip on the surface where the pads sit it can make this a difficult job.

Yes that is also correct, if a vehicle has rear brake drums, they will have to be removed for the handbrake to be adjusted. I'm still working on the handbrake part of this thread so just be patient, when I get the chance I will remove the rear rotors and take a photo of the adjusting wheel.

Great write up, should be useful to people just starting out.

Thanks mate

[Jxw]

oops forgot vr/vs went to the sealed unit for the front bearing's, i've got a vl in pieces, i'll get some pics when i'm putting it back together, that'll cover vb to vp atleast.

[scvs6]

oops forgot vr/vs went to the sealed unit for the front bearing's, i've got a vl in pieces, i'll get some pics when i'm putting it back together, that'll cover vb to vp atleast.

No worries mate, yeah I have 2 VR's, 2 VS's, and 2 VX's (well one is a WH) at home at the moment and they all have sealed front hubs. And my Magna has sealed bearings as well haha.

[vxcalais_01]

Excellent post.

[vxcalais_01]

Excellent post. Maybe worth adding check Globes, fuses etc. Spark plugs leads etc ?

[scvs6]

Excellent post. Maybe worth adding check Globes, fuses etc. Spark plugs leads etc ?

I did add check lights? Mainly exterior lights. You can check the fuses but if everything is working the way it should then there isn't really any need too. Spark Plugs and leads get checked/replaced when you do a tune up. This write up is just for a basic service. A Service and tune up you would replace the Air Filter, Fuel Filter, Spark Plugs, test the Spark Plug Leads, etc.

[Henrinsooki]

So, I'm going to try doing my spark plugs and leads myself.... Anyway someone can give me a step by step on how to do this correctly?

[c2105026]

I still have points I have to clean, adjust and replace on the VB haha. Not to worry, have figured out how to do them, but would it be worth me sharing how to do certain 6cyl VB procedures??

[Wombles]

Brilliant write up mate. Well done.

[scvs6]

So, I'm going to try doing my spark plugs and leads myself.... Anyway someone can give me a step by step on how to do this correctly?

Hey mate, I will do another write up on that sort of stuff another time. I have been very busy lately with work and everything, so I haven't had time to do much. As soon as I get a chance I will be updating this thread and creating another thread for "Tune ups".

[scvs6]

I still have points I have to clean, adjust and replace on the VB haha. Not to worry, have figured out how to do them, but would it be worth me sharing how to do certain 6cyl VB procedures??

I can't do a write up on points as I haven't changed/adjusted points before and none of my cars have points haha. Sorry mate.

I was going to write "Points? WTF is points." haha but I know what are, just haven't worked on any myself.

[scvs6]

Brilliant write up mate. Well done.

Thanks very much mate