ben315vz
Donating Member
- Joined
- May 11, 2011
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- Age
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- Location
- Tamborine Mountain, QLD
- Members Ride
- '05 Holden VZ Calais V8
This 'how to' will cover pretty much any car that you want to service. Car being used is a 2001 WH Statesman so your car may differ is some aspects, but you will get the general idea of what to do. This thread will be constantly updated.
Disclaimer: I do not take any responsibility for injuries or damages that may occur from using this guide. These methods work best using a hoist or a jack and four safety stands. If you have any concerns about anything, then take it to a mechanic and get them to do it for you. If you have any questions, then by all means ask. The more questions you ask the better, because hopefully it will prevent you from injury and you will learn as well.
HOW TO SERVICE AND CHECKOVER YOU CAR.
1. Get in the car you are about to service.
2. Check to see if the horn is working. Most horn buttons are located on the steering wheel.
Horn switch.
3. Check to see if the windscreen washers and wipers are working. Also make sure that the wiperblade inserts are not ripped or torn. Don't forget some cars also have a rear wiperblade and washer jet, so check those as well.
Windscreen Washer and Wiper Switch.
Windscreen Wiperblades.
4. Check all exterior lights to see if they are all working. You may need someone to help you check the brake lights, but the rest you can check yourself. Make sure the handbrake is on while checking the reverse lights.
Headlight Switch.
Checking to see if the lights are operating correctly.
5. Pull the handbrake lever on, then off, to see how far it comes up. If it comes up too high then it will need adjusting. To do this, jack up the car and place on safety stands, remove the rear wheels, you will see 2 rubber grommets, remove one, look for the adjuster, turn the adjuster until the rotor locks up (doesn't spin), then back off about 3 clicks.
Handbrake Lever.
6. Open the bonnet.
Open bonnet revealing engine bay.
7. Check all fluid level, and top up as necessary.
Brake Fluid.
Power Steering Fluid.
Washer Bottle Fluid. (Excuse the half eaten lid, a mouse must have been hungry).
Battery. (Note that you cannot check fluid levels in maintenance free batteries, such as the one shown).
Transmission Fluid. (Note that this must be done with the engine running and the transmission placed in the park position).
Coolant Overflow Bottle and the Radiator. (Only check the level in the radiator when the engine is cold, the system is under high pressure when hot and will cause serious burns - trust me, I know from experience).
Also with manual cars, you will need to check the clutch fluid, and gearbox oil.
8. Check the engine belt/s for cracks and adjustment (Note you cannot adjust the belt/s on some cars due to an automatic tensioner). If the belt/s have heaps of small cracks then they will need to be replaced.
Engine belt. (This belt is free of cracks and cannot be adjusted so it can be left alone).
9. Check all tyre pressures, including the spare in the boot. If you cannot do this at home, then check them at the servo next time you fill up with fuel. Recommended tyre pressures should be located on a tyre placard when you open the drivers door, in the engine bay, in the owners manual, or if not, it should be located on the sidewall of the tyre.
Tyre Placard.
Tyre Valve.
10. Now its time to get underneath the car. If you're using a hoist, then locate the four points for the hoist arms. If you're using a jack, then jack the car up from the K Frame, NOT THE ENGINE SUMP, and place the safety stands under the chassis rails. When jacking up from the rear, jack up the car from the diff.
The K Frame.
Jack under the K Frame.
Chassis Rail. (Sorry, my safety stands were being used on another vehicle at the time of taking photos).
Where to place the stands when jacking up the rear of the car. (Where that bolt is).
These are also the four points to use when using a two post hoist.
11. Once the car is up, get an oil drain tin, then loosen the sump plug and drain the oil. It is recommended that you don't do this while the engine is warn as the hot engine oil will burn you and cause serious injury.
Sump Plug.
The size of this sump plug is 19mm. Sump plug sizes vary depending on the make of the vehicle.
12. Once the oil has been drained, refit the sump plug. Do not over tighten as you can damage the sump and/or the threads.
13. Remove the old Oil Filter and replace it with a new one. Make sure you wipe where it seals and make sure the old gasket off the old Oil Filter didn't stay on the engine.
Oil Filter. (Note not all Oil Filters are spin on as pictures, some are cartridge types. If you ask your local Repco/Burson store, they can tell you give you the correct oil filter).
14. Check the Diff oil level. Remove the Diff Filler Plug and the oil should start to come out, if it does, then its at the correct level. Replace the Diff Filler Plug and tighten. Once again, no need to over tighten to avoid damage.
Diff Filler Plug.
15. Now its time to give underneath the car a general checkover.
Check the tail shaft, centre bearing and uni's. This car has rubber mount, if your does as well, make sure they are not cracked.
Centre Bearing. (Should have little to no up and down movement).
Uni's. (One on each end of the tail shaft).
Check the brakes and brake hoses (for cracks).
Look behind the caliper and you should be able to see the brake pads.
Brake Pads closest to the Rotors.
Same with the rear brakes.
Check the exhaust, mufflers, and mounts. (Just tap the muffler and if it is burnt out you will here it rattle.
Muffler.
Check Suspension. (If you see the rear shockers or front struts leaking oil then they need replacing.
Rear Shocker.
Front Strut. Also check the Link Pins to make sure these is no movement. They are connected to the strut as seen in this photo.
Check drive shaft boots. (Note if the car is front wheel drive, it still has drive shafts, they are just located in the front instead of the rear.
Check all rubber bushes under the car. Located where there is movement.
Check the Steering Rack Boots.
Check the Steering Rack Tie Rod Ends. To check these, rock the front wheel (by hand) side to side and you will notice that it feels loose, if they feel like that then they need replacing.
Check the tyre wear pattern. Remember if there is too much air, it will wear in the centre of the tyre mostly, not enough air, it will wear near the edges. A tyre also has wear bars, use these to see when the tread gets close, the tyres will need replacing.
Check for Oil leaks or anything else leaking that shouldn't be.
As you can see with this car, the air conditioning compressor is leaking and needs replacing.
16. Jack down the car carefully using the same procedure you used to jack up the car.
17. Get a funnel and sit it where you are going to put the oil into the engine (to prevent oil spilling). Check your owners manual to see how much oil the engine holds, then put that amount of oil into the engine. Refit the Oil Filler cap, start the engine, switch engine off once the oil light has gone out, re-check the engine oil.
Oil Filler Cap.
18. Once the oil is at the correct level, close the bonnet.
19. Lubricate the door hinges on all four doors.
20. Write out a service sticker and place on your windscreen on the top right hand side.
21. If you own a VT-VE Commodore and you wish to reset the service due indicator, then follow the steps in this thread: Holden Commodore/Statesman Service Lamp Re Set Procedures VT-VE
Well I hope this information has helped someone, people may not go to these extremes when servicing their car, but this is the way I do it everytime I service my own or a customers car. This thread will be updated, will more information, more photos, so keep checking back for updates.
Disclaimer: I do not take any responsibility for injuries or damages that may occur from using this guide. These methods work best using a hoist or a jack and four safety stands. If you have any concerns about anything, then take it to a mechanic and get them to do it for you. If you have any questions, then by all means ask. The more questions you ask the better, because hopefully it will prevent you from injury and you will learn as well.
Disclaimer: I do not take any responsibility for injuries or damages that may occur from using this guide. These methods work best using a hoist or a jack and four safety stands. If you have any concerns about anything, then take it to a mechanic and get them to do it for you. If you have any questions, then by all means ask. The more questions you ask the better, because hopefully it will prevent you from injury and you will learn as well.
HOW TO SERVICE AND CHECKOVER YOU CAR.
1. Get in the car you are about to service.
2. Check to see if the horn is working. Most horn buttons are located on the steering wheel.
Horn switch.
3. Check to see if the windscreen washers and wipers are working. Also make sure that the wiperblade inserts are not ripped or torn. Don't forget some cars also have a rear wiperblade and washer jet, so check those as well.
Windscreen Washer and Wiper Switch.
Windscreen Wiperblades.
4. Check all exterior lights to see if they are all working. You may need someone to help you check the brake lights, but the rest you can check yourself. Make sure the handbrake is on while checking the reverse lights.
Headlight Switch.
Checking to see if the lights are operating correctly.
5. Pull the handbrake lever on, then off, to see how far it comes up. If it comes up too high then it will need adjusting. To do this, jack up the car and place on safety stands, remove the rear wheels, you will see 2 rubber grommets, remove one, look for the adjuster, turn the adjuster until the rotor locks up (doesn't spin), then back off about 3 clicks.
Handbrake Lever.
6. Open the bonnet.
Open bonnet revealing engine bay.
7. Check all fluid level, and top up as necessary.
Brake Fluid.
Power Steering Fluid.
Washer Bottle Fluid. (Excuse the half eaten lid, a mouse must have been hungry).
Battery. (Note that you cannot check fluid levels in maintenance free batteries, such as the one shown).
Transmission Fluid. (Note that this must be done with the engine running and the transmission placed in the park position).
Coolant Overflow Bottle and the Radiator. (Only check the level in the radiator when the engine is cold, the system is under high pressure when hot and will cause serious burns - trust me, I know from experience).
Also with manual cars, you will need to check the clutch fluid, and gearbox oil.
8. Check the engine belt/s for cracks and adjustment (Note you cannot adjust the belt/s on some cars due to an automatic tensioner). If the belt/s have heaps of small cracks then they will need to be replaced.
Engine belt. (This belt is free of cracks and cannot be adjusted so it can be left alone).
9. Check all tyre pressures, including the spare in the boot. If you cannot do this at home, then check them at the servo next time you fill up with fuel. Recommended tyre pressures should be located on a tyre placard when you open the drivers door, in the engine bay, in the owners manual, or if not, it should be located on the sidewall of the tyre.
Tyre Placard.
Tyre Valve.
10. Now its time to get underneath the car. If you're using a hoist, then locate the four points for the hoist arms. If you're using a jack, then jack the car up from the K Frame, NOT THE ENGINE SUMP, and place the safety stands under the chassis rails. When jacking up from the rear, jack up the car from the diff.
The K Frame.
Jack under the K Frame.
Chassis Rail. (Sorry, my safety stands were being used on another vehicle at the time of taking photos).
Where to place the stands when jacking up the rear of the car. (Where that bolt is).
These are also the four points to use when using a two post hoist.
11. Once the car is up, get an oil drain tin, then loosen the sump plug and drain the oil. It is recommended that you don't do this while the engine is warn as the hot engine oil will burn you and cause serious injury.
Sump Plug.
The size of this sump plug is 19mm. Sump plug sizes vary depending on the make of the vehicle.
12. Once the oil has been drained, refit the sump plug. Do not over tighten as you can damage the sump and/or the threads.
13. Remove the old Oil Filter and replace it with a new one. Make sure you wipe where it seals and make sure the old gasket off the old Oil Filter didn't stay on the engine.
Oil Filter. (Note not all Oil Filters are spin on as pictures, some are cartridge types. If you ask your local Repco/Burson store, they can tell you give you the correct oil filter).
14. Check the Diff oil level. Remove the Diff Filler Plug and the oil should start to come out, if it does, then its at the correct level. Replace the Diff Filler Plug and tighten. Once again, no need to over tighten to avoid damage.
Diff Filler Plug.
15. Now its time to give underneath the car a general checkover.
Check the tail shaft, centre bearing and uni's. This car has rubber mount, if your does as well, make sure they are not cracked.
Centre Bearing. (Should have little to no up and down movement).
Uni's. (One on each end of the tail shaft).
Check the brakes and brake hoses (for cracks).
Look behind the caliper and you should be able to see the brake pads.
Brake Pads closest to the Rotors.
Same with the rear brakes.
Check the exhaust, mufflers, and mounts. (Just tap the muffler and if it is burnt out you will here it rattle.
Muffler.
Check Suspension. (If you see the rear shockers or front struts leaking oil then they need replacing.
Rear Shocker.
Front Strut. Also check the Link Pins to make sure these is no movement. They are connected to the strut as seen in this photo.
Check drive shaft boots. (Note if the car is front wheel drive, it still has drive shafts, they are just located in the front instead of the rear.
Check all rubber bushes under the car. Located where there is movement.
Check the Steering Rack Boots.
Check the Steering Rack Tie Rod Ends. To check these, rock the front wheel (by hand) side to side and you will notice that it feels loose, if they feel like that then they need replacing.
Check the tyre wear pattern. Remember if there is too much air, it will wear in the centre of the tyre mostly, not enough air, it will wear near the edges. A tyre also has wear bars, use these to see when the tread gets close, the tyres will need replacing.
Check for Oil leaks or anything else leaking that shouldn't be.
As you can see with this car, the air conditioning compressor is leaking and needs replacing.
16. Jack down the car carefully using the same procedure you used to jack up the car.
17. Get a funnel and sit it where you are going to put the oil into the engine (to prevent oil spilling). Check your owners manual to see how much oil the engine holds, then put that amount of oil into the engine. Refit the Oil Filler cap, start the engine, switch engine off once the oil light has gone out, re-check the engine oil.
Oil Filler Cap.
18. Once the oil is at the correct level, close the bonnet.
19. Lubricate the door hinges on all four doors.
20. Write out a service sticker and place on your windscreen on the top right hand side.
21. If you own a VT-VE Commodore and you wish to reset the service due indicator, then follow the steps in this thread: Holden Commodore/Statesman Service Lamp Re Set Procedures VT-VE
Well I hope this information has helped someone, people may not go to these extremes when servicing their car, but this is the way I do it everytime I service my own or a customers car. This thread will be updated, will more information, more photos, so keep checking back for updates.
Disclaimer: I do not take any responsibility for injuries or damages that may occur from using this guide. These methods work best using a hoist or a jack and four safety stands. If you have any concerns about anything, then take it to a mechanic and get them to do it for you. If you have any questions, then by all means ask. The more questions you ask the better, because hopefully it will prevent you from injury and you will learn as well.
Last edited:
Cheers