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[VN-VP] Pro comp Gilmer belt drive kit A/C and P/S how to

FIREHZD

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Hey dudes,

On ebay or pro comp catalogues u may have found one of these Gilmer belt drive kits. It seems easy in theory take old pulleys off, fit Gilmer pulleys yeah? Well it's not!! I searched high and low on the Internet for a how to but no luck bout the only thing people could tell me is they're crap. Anyway I have it fitted now and taken a few pics of bits you will need to source to make it work.

First loosen your belts and remove them if u dunno how to do this forget doing this project yourself.
you need to remove your radiator shroud and radiator (can be done without but less chance of damaging it this way).
Then remove your thermostatic clutch fan if you have one. Once you do this your waterpump pulley should slide off.
Next remove the 4 bolts on your crank pulley.
Now the alternator pulley... This ones tricky best way of doing this is removing the whole alternator and using a vice and rattlegun but if your a bogan u could jam it with a screwdriver and use a breaker bar.

Now fit the Gilmer pulleys - pretty much the same way you removed the old ones... When doing the main crank one make sure the a/c one goes first then your grooved Gilmer pulley then your other v belt p/s pulley. To fit these to your harmonic balancer you need 4 - 116mm bolts with spring washers you can get these from your local bolt shop take one of the old bolts in to make sure the thread is correct.
Now you have fitted these you would notice your p/s pump is way to far back to even think about fitting a belt. You need to unbolt the whole bracket and space it out by 50mm you could use a heap of washers I Spose but it wouldn't look very tidy. So I went to the bearing shop (CBC) and picked up 3 brass bushes 50mm in length. You will also need 3 - 75mm bolts with flat washers. Now it should all line up. Now the next dilemma... Your original p/s and a/c belts will not fit as the pro comp pulleys now fitted to your harmonic balancer are smaller in diameter so you will need to go find a shop that stocks Alot of v belts. luckily the bearing shop here does. The ac belt needs to be around 795mm long but no shorter. Your ps belt needs to be no shorter than 1080mm. Now tighten the belts but make sure your Gilmer belt is not too tight.

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Immortality

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Good write up.

Poocomp is crap, they rip off other Aussie manufacturers. But then you can't really go wrong with a Gilmer drive.

I wouldn't purchase a poocomp gilmer kit for a couple of reasons, firstly as stated above and 2nd for the fact that it's not a simple bolt on kit because you need to get other bits to make it work properly.

the poocomp issue aside, you've done decent job of writing it up with clear pic's to explain what you've done :thumbsup:

I'm also going to assume that your fitting some sort of thermo fan arrangement not that you have removed the clutch fan?
 

FIREHZD

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Cheers, yeah if I knew all this before I don't think I would have bothered! Works well tho, now I'm not losing my belts at the burnout comps. I have fitted a pair of au falcon thermos to keep it cool. However I don't think it would be much work to fit the original fan although I think the shroud would need modifications now that the p/s pump has been brought forward.




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JTR007

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Wow, thanks for sharing this!
I have actually been thinking about buying some from the same place, but yea. Thanks for the heads up NAND the write up :)
 

willsbrook

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This is a great write up...Thanks Heaps.

I got one a couple of questions tho....

1) Just in front of my P/S Pump there is a black canister thing which doesn.t allow me to move the Pump forward, What is this can and can I toss it out??

2) If I do move the Pump forward, it actually sits right under the Top Radiator Hose, not allowing me to get the cap off to check the oil, Do I need a different Radiator hose for this??
 

FIREHZD

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Ok good questions mate.. That black thing is your charcoal canister, it's part of your emissions control u can remove it but then your at risk of getting defected much like if they found out you knocked the guts out of your cat converter. I simply moved the whole unit and bracket down behind the bumper just front of the RH wheel. Then simply bend the fuel tank line and extend your hoses.

As for the radiator hose covering your p/s pump cap this could probably be fixed if you get one of those bendy hoses like the ones people use in engine conversions. Or you could hunt around for another hose that will go around it. I just left it how it is you can still get the cap off and top it up if you hold the hose out of the way ;)
 

dobesz

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Good right up!!! But shows how shite pro comp gear is!!! I have a full glimmer set up that I not fitted yet and not looking forward to fitting lol
 

Cava454

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Cheers, yeah if I knew all this before I don't think I would have bothered! Works well tho, now I'm not losing my belts at the burnout comps. I have fitted a pair of au falcon thermos to keep it cool. However I don't think it would be much work to fit the original fan although I think the shroud would need modifications now that the p/s pump has been brought forward.




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Don't run the Std clutch fan with a Gilmer kit. Puts Alot of strain on the neck of the water pump and can cause em to brake off
 

Gecko VNSS

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Good write up mate , ive been wondering about those kits for a while :)
 
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