[VT-VX] Changing Front Rotors and Pads

[Irukanji]

Changing Front Rotors and Pads[VT S1 Commodore)

Tools;

Spanner Set
Socket Set
Ratchet
Breaker Bar w/ socket or suitable wheel nut removal device
Chassis Stands
Jack
Rubber Mallet

Method;

Warnings: Brake dust contains fibers, don't use compressed air, etc to clean the parts. Basically, don't breath in the dust and you'll be fine.

1 Jack the car up, put it on stands, remove the front wheels.

2 Locate the 2 bolts holding the caliper to the caliper frame. You'll need 2 spanners for this, to be able to hold the bit which turns whilst you remove the bolt. You could also use a socket, but clearance can be an issue(like on mine). Undo both bolts(duh).

3 Slide the caliper off the frame, and support it somehow. Don't twist or excessively flex the brake hose. I just used my jack to hold it, but you could use a bit of wire, a pile of bricks, etc. Don't lose the little metal bits where the pads slot in.(see pic)

4 Undo the 2 large nuts holding the caliper frame to the hub. They have a spring washer on them and can be pretty tight to get off. You can usually undo these by hand once it has been cracked loose from the washer. Don't lose the washers. Some people like to put them back in the same holes, and I figure they were happy there before so that's how it goes.

5 With the frame removed, pull the old rotor off the hub. I did these a few weeks ago to get access to the ball joint, so they were easy to remove this time. Last time it had just started to rust/seize to the hub and I had to wack it a few times with the mallet to get it off. Once that is done, you have the bare hub. Now is the time to replace the hub assembly if the bearings are on their way out.

6 Identify the direction of the cooling vanes inside the rotor. Make sure they “face” forwards. If you are installing slotted, the “top” of the slot should be pointing forwards. The principle is the same as the slots, it should be like a “net” against the pads when you're driving forwards. Push it on, trying not to scratch the surface with the studs as you do it. Put the frame on. Push the rotor all the way in and rotate it to make sure there is clearance for everything(you will need to hold it there as you turn it). Check the final pic for an easier explanation.

7 Push the pistons in using a suitable device. I just use a g-clamp and gently push them in starting with the one furthest from the brake line. Then do the other one. Then, do the first one again. You might need to do it a few times to get them low enough to fit over the pads. This is probably not ideal, but I've never had an issue with it. You only need enough clearance to fit it over the new pads, so don't try and push the piston out of the back of the caliper...

8 Make sure the little metal brackets haven't fallen out of their spots(the ones mentioned above). Put the pads into their slots, and squeeze them together with your hand(so they are firm against the rotor). Push the piston over the top of the pads, trying to keep it central. You might need to push the pistons in a little more to get clearance. Put the 2 bolts back in to their respective holes. Stand back and admire your handywork. Have a smoke, a drink, whatever you need to do. Then go to the other side and repeat the process. In the pic I haven't put the top one in, but it doesn't affect the pic so I didn't take another )

The finished product. As you can see, that is how the slots should be oriented. If they are normal rotors, check the vanes inside. If they are angled, make sure they go in the same way as the slots appear.

9 Chuck the wheels back on, stick it on the ground, check the wheel nuts are tight. Gently/slowly push the brake pedal down, to get the system back to where it was before. Probably not required but it'll make sure the pistons are touching the back of the pads before you drive off.

10 Bed them in however your manual/info sheet which came with the rotors specifies. Mine didn't come with one, however I just did a few firm brakes from 40-5km/h, small breaks in between, then 60-5km/h a few times using the handbrake at lights so they don't get overheated. Drive like this for a day or 2, ideally when the roads are quiet.

First impressions; Almost no noticeable brake fade. The braking is noticeably firmer than before(could be the new pads). If you have a spare hundred bucks you can get a set of new ones, and it'll be worth the money. $150 covered the slotted rotors, a set of “brand name” pads(Bendix), and postage. The rubber mallet will help to remove a semi-seized rotor, and you can use it to wack spanners to help loosen the 19mm bolts holding the frame on. This was originally written for a different forum, so exact sizes weren't included but from memory you'll nee a 12mm and 16mm spanner, and a 19mm spanner/socket. Torque specs should ideally be used but there is no clearance down there for most torque wrenches so make sure they are tight and you should be ok.

 

[Immortality]

Good write-up.

Couple of things I would add.

Clean the brakes with a high pressure hose the day before intending to do the work, always easier when working on something that is relatively clean to begin with, you could even use a product such as crc-brakleen-brake-parts-cleaner.

When pushing the pistons back in, use an old brake pad between the G clamp and the pistons then you can do both at the same time. Before pushing them back, ensure there is plenty of spare capacity in the MC reservoir so it doesn't overflow. If you do manage to spill any brake fluid and get it on the paint work, flush with copious amounts of water.

After removing the old rotor, clean the hub if the new rotor doesn't sit flat you can get a lot of run-out which lead to a pulsating brake pedal and excessive wear quickly on the rotor. Personally, I always put a little grease on the hub/face and prevents rusting so the next time you have to remove it it won't be stuck. Also prevents the wheel getting stuck on the hub which an be a major pain in the ass if you have a flat tyre in the middle of no-where and can't get the bastard off.

Cheers

 

[Irukanji]

Good write-up.

Couple of things I would add.

Clean the brakes with a high pressure hose the day before intending to do the work, always easier when working on something that is relatively clean to begin with, you could even use a product such as crc-brakleen-brake-parts-cleaner.

When pushing the pistons back in, use an old brake pad between the G clamp and the pistons then you can do both at the same time. Before pushing them back, ensure there is plenty of spare capacity in the MC reservoir so it doesn't overflow. If you do manage to spill any brake fluid and get it on the paint work, flush with copious amounts of water.

After removing the old rotor, clean the hub if the new rotor doesn't sit flat you can get a lot of run-out which lead to a pulsating brake pedal and excessive wear quickly on the rotor. Personally, I always put a little grease on the hub/face and prevents rusting so the next time you have to remove it it won't be stuck. Also prevents the wheel getting stuck on the hub which an be a major pain in the ass if you have a flat tyre in the middle of no-where and can't get the bastard off.

Cheers

Solid advice, I'll remember it for next time. Noticed the tie rod end on the drivers side had a lot of play with it, easy to remove with a puller. The 4lb sledgehammer didn't do anything regardless of where I hit it, 2 hours later called my mate and got a lift, 3 hours wasted trying to get it out. Bought a bearing puller from repco for $50 and they came out in <5 minutes each once you figure out how the puller(pusher, in this case) works, definitely worth the money.

 

[Timmah]

Solid advice, I'll remember it for next time. Noticed the tie rod end on the drivers side had a lot of play with it, easy to remove with a puller. The 4lb sledgehammer didn't do anything regardless of where I hit it, 2 hours later called my mate and got a lift, 3 hours wasted trying to get it out. Bought a bearing puller from repco for $50 and they came out in <5 minutes each once you figure out how the puller(pusher, in this case) works, definitely worth the money.

That's nuts man - I had a regular hammer and was expecting something like you had. Gave it a decent whack and the tie rod end dropped straight out and cracked me on the ankle hahaha.

Question though - I've tried to get my rotors off, but the 19mm bolts holding the caliper bracket on are SUPER tight. Is this normal? I'm worried I'm gonna strip the bolts :|

 

[macca234]

That's normal dude, they usually have loctite on them from the factory. Just get a breaker bar and belt the end with a hammer til they break free. (make sure socket/spanner is on the bolt properly first)

 

[Irukanji]

Some more advice;

I bought a VT with an LS1 in it(i know, piston slap etc etc it seems alright for now), and the rotors were seized. Anyway, an 8mm bolt in those 3 small screw holes on the rotor itself work great for popping them off, probably designed for it. Once it's off, nuke the front of the hub with degreaser and give it a quick clean up with a wire brush. New one might sit a little loose until you press it on with the wheel, bit tricky to get the pads back on with stuck slide pins(reused old pads but they are identical in size so should be ok for <1 week, gotta pull again to fix the slide pin issue on one side then the creeking should fk off haha