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Thread: Changing Oil Filter and Oil (VN-VS)

  1. #1
    AirStrike's Avatar
    AirStrike is offline Site Administrator
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    Default Changing Oil Filter and Oil (VN-VS)

    Tools Needed:
    • 12" Shifter
    • Filter Strap (Optional)

    Other Material Needed:
    • Quality Oil
    • Oil Tray

    The most important factor when changing your oil is to use top quality stuff, brands I have used and don't have any problems with are Castrol, Mobil or Penzoil. You can go with the expensive synthetic oil or semi-synthetic but keep in mind going this way generally means the oil will be much thinner and will leak through any seals which are old therefore leaving oil spots all over the place.

    I am currently using Castrol GTX 2 in my VN which is 20W-50, I was using Castrol Magnatec which is 10W-40 which I found a little too thin for my rear main seal and would leave drops in the driveway whereas the GTX 2 wouldn't.

    Some people say you should fill the oil filter with oil before going any further as it prevents problems such as bearing damage on first startup due to spikes. I have never put any oil in the filter and my VN is still running very strong so that must say something for how I have done it.

    Below is a step by step guide to changing your oil and oil filter:

    1. Start the engine and get the temperature to normal operating temperature then switch it off.
    2. Place an oil tray (available from your local automotive supplier such as Sprint Auto Parts, Super Cheap Auto Parts or Repco) under sump located smack bang in the middle of the car at the front and undo sump plug using a 12" shifter or something similar.

      BE CAREFUL AS THE OIL WILL BE HOT!

    3. Let the oil drain until it slows down to a drip and then remove oil filter using a oil filter strap or your bare hands.
    4. Replace sump plug so it is firm but not tight.
    5. Dip your finger into the new oil container and smear a little oil around the rubber o-ring on the new filter, this helps the filter seal to the engine block.
    6. After ensuring the thread and its immediate surroundings are free of rubbish and grit replace the filter over the thread and hand tighten until the o-ring locks up against the engine block.
    7. Tighten the oil filter to recommended specifications generally 1/2 - 3/4 turn after it has hit the engine block, this can be done by hand or using a filter strap.
    8. Next start pouring the oil in with about as much as you took out, in my V6 I start off with about 4 litres and wait for it to settle then check the dip stick, repeat as necessary until the 'H' mark is reached or a little higher (no more than 2 - 3mm).
    9. Start the engine and leave it at idle only for a few minutes then check the oil level again.
    10. Fill out the sticker located on the bottle with the date and odometer reading and place on the inside of the windscreen.

    I change my oil and filter every 5,000 km's although some people do prefer to change the oil filter every 10,000 km's, I figure the cost of an oil filter it may as well be done at the same time.
    2009 FG G6ET
    395rwkw
    11.76 @ 117 MPH (350rwkw)
    11.15 @ 131 MPH (395rwkw, stock auto)

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  2. #2
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    Default

    It helps to also remove the oil filler cap b4 taking off the sump plug to aid oil draining.

    When most of the oil has dripped out...say 10 minutes or so, i put some new oil in (say 250 ml with the sump plug still undone), then put my air line blower into the oil filler cap and cover tightly with a rag. You then blow pressurised air through for a couple minutes and this helps get the gunk out from the bottom of the sump...works a treat!

    ps. i always fill the filter 1/2 full with oil prior to installing - definately helps
    with pressure buildup when starting!

    cheers

  3. #3
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    Default

    u mentioned that you should fill oil filters up.. FALSE.. because the way the filter works the oil you put in the filter doesnt actually pass through the filters filtration mesh which means ur having semi unfiltered oil going through ur system which means bad, worst case scenario blown valve..

  4. #4
    ivaninoz's Avatar
    ivaninoz is offline Ivaninoz
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    Lightbulb Oil Filters

    I do 'most' of my own work on my Vehicles.
    An interesting [for me] article was a comparison of Aftermarket oilfilters.
    Yes, they are for Bikes,
    My Guzzi is basically a "Car" type engine; Motor oil and Gearbox oil, both separate. Push rod, 2 Valves old School, like "Some" other Vee motors we know

    There is a HUGE difference in the Oilfilter Quality. Many Guzzi owners go 2 or 3 changes before changing Filters. Me? Every 2nd change.
    A couple have opened the OilFilters after a few Oilchanges and the filters are [WERE] still working within their Performance Specifications.
    http://www.tobycreek.org/oil_filters/ufi.shtml
    Ivan in Oz,
    Over the Hill, SEQld
    MOTOGuzzi T4 and Cali III Dresser
    1985 735i Bemmer............
    1998 Statey......

  5. #5
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    Default

    hi, I am going to change the engine oil today but where is the sump plug, on the side or on the right bottom?

  6. #6
    ivaninoz's Avatar
    ivaninoz is offline Ivaninoz
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    Default Diff

    How often do any of Ewes [you] change the Differential oil?
    Ivan in Oz,
    Over the Hill, SEQld
    MOTOGuzzi T4 and Cali III Dresser
    1985 735i Bemmer............
    1998 Statey......

  7. #7
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    Default

    Quote Originally Posted by andyli View Post
    hi, I am going to change the engine oil today but where is the sump plug, on the side or on the right bottom?
    passenger side on my series 1 i assume all are the same, ( left side

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