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Thread: Powersteering pump VS V6 Statesman fix

  1. #1
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    Default Powersteering pump VS V6 Statesman fix

    The powersteering pump on my VS V6 Statesman (Variatronic) sprung a serious leak from the back. Not feeling like buying a new one, I rang Repco, AutOne, Supercheap and Autobahn in Sydney. They all offered only one option, an exchange pump for at least $165.

    I then researched this site and discovered a lot of people probably solved the same problem with a seal kit from Holden. The kit and a new high pressure line O ring was around $22 full retail. In either case I had to remove the pump so I decide to replace the seal.

    The process:
    1. Undo the powersteering pump outer pully bolts before removing the serpentine belt.
    2. Remove the serpentine belt using a 15mm spanner to release the spring loaded pulley. If you haven't done this before, read the log book which also has a diagram showing the correct installation.
    3. Loosen the low pressure powersteeering fluid line hose clamp where it attaches to the pump. This is the line that runs to the pump from the refill reservoir.
    4. Put an old icecream container on the floor below the hose to catch any fluid when you pull off the hose.
    5. Pull off the hose.
    6. Cover the end of the hose with gladwrap and let it lean on the front of the ABS controller. This is higher than the refill bottle so no more fluid leaks out.
    7. Undo the two bolts that hold the pump on. DON'T try and undo the high pressure line yet.
    8. Lower the pump with the high pressure line still attached onto the stabaliser bar.
    9. Undo the high pressure line using a second spanner to hold the pump still.
    10. Turn the pump over and release excess fluid into the icecream container.
    11. Remove the old O ring from the end of the high pressure line.
    12. On the pump, clean the remains of the old O ring from the inside of the high pressure connection point.
    13. Using a large G clamp or a steering wheel puller, compress the back cover of the pump enough to allow removal of the round spring clamp from its groove in the back of the pump. Don't be afraid to push the back cover in as far as it will go. It is spring loaded.
    14. Use a pointed screwdriver to remove the spring. I used a second flat head screwdriver to get behind the spring when I had freed it a little from the groove.
    15. When the back cover is off, remove the large O ring seal from its groove inside the back of the pump. I didn't bother changing any other seals because removing the inside components of the pump can be a confusing and from what I have read the rear seal is the only one that ever leaks.
    16. Remove any old seal remains from the inside of the pump.
    17. Installation is a reversal of the above. Pay attention to the pump bolts. The fat one goes to the top and should be installed loosely first. The lower one goes through the line support bracket before installation.
    18. Make sure the fluid reservoir is topped up before starting the engine and keep topping up after starting.

    If the pump groans, the system probably needs new fluid and bleeding. The following may help:
    1. Jack up the front of the car supporting with stands.
    2. Take the lid off the refill reservoir.
    3. Remove the steering rack return line from the refill reservoir and plug the reservoir.
    4. Get an assistant to hold the return line into an icecream container.
    5. With the engine off, turn the steering wheel slowly to the bump stop full left and then full right a couple of times.
    6. Turn the engine on and do the same again a few times.
    7. Keep filling the reservoir making sure the pump doesn't run dry.
    8. I think the system holds about 1 litre of fluid.
    9. After the fluid has been changed, reconnect the return hose to the reservoir.
    10. If you can still see bubbles in the reservoir, you may need to keep turning the steering wheel slowly left and right a few more times.
    11. Put lid back on reservoir.

    This is how I fixed my VS V6 Statesman. Other models may be slightly different.

  2. #2
    hako is offline Donating Member
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    Great post fixedit...this should be in the "how to" section. You seem to have covered every eventuality.

  3. #3
    Darren's Avatar
    Darren is offline Site Administrator
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    Moved to not really the correct spot but it deserved to be here

    Very nice work indeed fixedit!

  4. #4
    DannyboyDS is offline Just hand me the pliers.
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    "14. Use a pointed screwdriver to remove the spring. I used a second flat head screwdriver to get behind the spring when I had freed it a little from the groove."

    Just to add a little hint here around the outside of the pump near the metal ring holding the rear seal in is a tiny hole in the pump (may need to clean the pump to find it) you can fit a small piece of wire or a coathanger or allot of things through it, this will push the ring out and allow you to get a screw driver behind it.

  5. #5
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    on my vr there is a little hole that you can push out the spring which makes it alot easyer

  6. #6
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    Hey fixedit

    Nice guide there

    My VT V8 (5 Litre) pump is leaking. Would it be pretty much
    the same procedure for me?

    Thanks
    50LTRv8

  7. #7
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    Just got back from Holden, a "Seal Kit" an the high pressure O-ring cost me $18.60 all told. If I remember, I'll post some pics of how I do it.

  8. #8
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    I have done this on my pump (from my post above), Just do the 3 seats on the very back, they were the only ones damaged and I ended up damaging a c clip inside the pump. It is pretty easy once you get it apart. Also make sure you bleed the system after you done as in the how too.
    50LTRv8

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Irukanji View Post
    Just got back from Holden, a "Seal Kit" an the high pressure O-ring cost me $18.60 all told. If I remember, I'll post some pics of how I do it.
    Did it as stated in the original post, it is rather straight forward so didn't bother with pics. An easier way to get the retaining ring out is to turn it in it's groove so there is only 2-3cm left(or right) of the hole, and then poke it with a screwdriver/whatever, if it is small enough it will go behind it, forcing the ring onto the flat bit above it and allowing you to slide it out easy enough.

    The high pressure hose to the pump is super tight, but be careful when you open it, as the 2 metal things will shoot out if you aren't lol. The spring stayed inside, so that was good. It takes a bit of effort to push back in because the o-ring is tight, but once you get it in the right spot it all just slides in easily.

    And when you'd putting it together, don't forget the bracket, it should go underneath the head of the bottom bolt, instead of into the pulley wheel(me and my step-dad both forgot about it/couldn't remember, then I gave it a feel because the wheel wasn't turning properly, and sure enough there it was. Only takes 5 minutes)

    Power steering fluid smells pretty rank, too.

    Wratchet
    13mm socket(pump retaining bolts)
    10mm socket(pulley wheel retaining bolts)
    1 inch(high pressure bolt on the pump body)
    ???? size(for the high pressure hose itself, I think it was 15 or 16, but the spanner had no markings on it)
    Hammer(for loosening tight nuts)
    Vice(for holding the pump body, doesn't need to be done up tight)
    Needle-noise tweezers for getting left over o-ring out
    Ice cream container
    Plastic bags/glad wrap
    Newspaper(for your work bench, no matter how much fluid you get out of the pump, there is still more)

    I'm sure there is something else, but that's what I can remember and it doesn't leak any more, so...

  10. #10
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  11. #11
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    Forgot to add;

    Whilst it's off, hit it with the wire brush and/or screwdriver(for the tight bits) and scrub all the old oil off. Looks almost new with 5 minutes work.


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